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Thread: Going to look at a 101

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Boston
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    56

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    UPDATE

    Truck runs and I was driving it around yesterday. It did start to overheat a bit so I'm gonna flush the coolant and a couple other things. Started right up, no smoke or anything. One valve is sticking but I'm running carb cleaner through it.

    One thing I did notice is that in the 20 minutes it was running, it managed to polish off almost an entire 5 gallons if fuel.... So I'm assuming it's running a bit rich. So I'm gonna have to do some adjusting if I can find the factory carb settings.

    In all, very exciting. It's always a good thing to know you didn't buy complete junk XD

  2. #22
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    Nov 2012
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    Boston
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    So I'm wondering, I've seen sun visors for the series rovers like this

    I was wondering if the siii and the 101 windshields were close enough to be able to use one?
    If not, making one is still an option
    Mike S
    1975 Land Rover FC101
    Resident Stuped Hillbilly
    www.stupedhillbilly.com

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    151

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    S3 yes 101 no

  4. #24
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    Nov 2012
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    Boston
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    So......
    Bought some xml's




    Mike S
    1975 Land Rover FC101
    Resident Stuped Hillbilly
    www.stupedhillbilly.com

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Phoenix AZ
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    1,358

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    Those look good and wide. I persume youare going with aftermarket rims then? I also hope you have good arm muscles if you ever plan on parallel parking. I'd also go through the steering box thoroughly as they were never the strongest and you'll be putting more load on everything.

    Finally I have only ever had bar grips on my 101 so I am interested to see how you find she runs on the XMLs.

  6. #26
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    Nov 2012
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    Well I've heard of some people putting the 11.00r16 on the standard rim, and this is the size equivilant for that's size. I'm gonna try it out and see how it goes. If all else fails, I can get my money back for the rubber.

    Side note, for the seats. Are they model specific or are they the same as series seats? If not, I can probably get a pair of old jeep seats and make them fit, but I will need them.


    Also, for some reason, when I run the engine, it burns a gratuitous amount of fuel. When I say gratuitous, I mean 5 gallons in a matter of 20 minutes at idle. I checked the oil to see if it was leaking into it, and there was no gas.

    Someone put an aftermarket electric fuel pump on it, and I'm guessing it's because of a bad "in tank" fuel pump as it doesn't really do a good job at getting fuel to or through the filter. Right now I've been running it out of a 5 gallon gas can. I can't imagine it would be forcing that much fuel through the carbs, but I dunno at this point.
    Thoughts?
    Is this common?

    Maybe I just have to go through and clean the carbs?
    Mike S
    1975 Land Rover FC101
    Resident Stuped Hillbilly
    www.stupedhillbilly.com

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Phoenix AZ
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    On the tyres the steering is pretty heavy with the original bar grips which have a comparatively small contact patch. It will only get heavier with bigger, wider tyres. The gearing will also be a bit too high for the original engine to push along in overdrive. Having said all that it's all about what works for you so I'm interested to hear how you find them. I have considered a set of the Yellow Sea XZL clones.

    The OEM fuel pump is easy to overhaul if you still have the original pick up tubes and in tank mount. You can get a new pump at NAPA for $70 as it is quite generic. If you are feeding the carbs from a jerry how have you rigged the fuel return? The pump continually recirculates the fuel from the tank to the carbs so you might find your missing fuel in the tank. A stuck float would allow you to pump the fuel out through the carb but from experience the engine won't run that rich.

  8. #28
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    Nov 2012
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    Boston
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    *facepalm*

    Aparently I have never seen a recirculating fuel system like that before... So yeah. Problem solved. The missing fuel is back in the tank :P

    I'll tinker with it this weekend and see if I can get it going from the tank. I may replace the original pump and do away with the electric one. As it is, I'm going to need to play around with electrical work, and that will be one less thing to worry about.
    Mike S
    1975 Land Rover FC101
    Resident Stuped Hillbilly
    www.stupedhillbilly.com

  9. #29
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    Oct 2006
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    If it helps the replacement pump is NFPP60293 from NAPA

    You will still need the in tank mount for the pump but I presume that is still filling the hole in your tank.

  10. #30
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    Nov 2012
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    Now she's running good on the original tank. But now it's overheating. It was doing the same thing the first time I got it running too. I changed the coolant in the radiator and it seemed to be running just under 85. (Where I believe it's supposed to be) I was thinking about doing a whole coolant flush and see if it changes anything. I know the water pump is a common thing on these motors, but like I said, it was working fine. So if it's not the coolant I'll start diagnosing wether or not the thermostat or pump are working properly
    Mike S
    1975 Land Rover FC101
    Resident Stuped Hillbilly
    www.stupedhillbilly.com

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