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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Plum Island
    Posts
    14

    Default Series IIA clutch problems

    Greetings to all. New member here. I have a 1966 II (or is it IIA) 88", there is fluid leaking out around the clutch pedal. I have topped the resevoir off and cannot seem to generate any pressure. Am I correct in assuming that my problem lies within the slave cylinder, or should I be looking at the master cylinder instead, or both. If it is the slave do I have to take the fender off to get at it?
    Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
    Tight lines

  2. #2

    Default

    It's a IIa.

    If the fluid is leaking above the pedal, it's the clutch master cyl. The slave is down on the right hand side behind the engine.

    Yes, you have to take the fender off. It's easy - two bolts on top, 4 or 5 down the bulkhead, a few on the radiator support, and disconnecting the 4 wires going to the indicator lights.

    Then you have to disconnect the two lines to the clutch master - one is to the res, so you might want to be careful that the fluid doesn't all leak out of that. I usually take the res right off. It's one bolt after you disconnect it from the brake and clutch masters.

    The clutch pedal assembly comes right off with 6 or 8 bolts through the bulkhead. Then there are 6 or so screws on a flat rectangle cover on top of the pedal assembly. Then there is a bolt that connects the clutch pedal to the master plunger.

    I'd suggest getting a new master instead of rebuilding - they are cheap.

    When you put it back together, bench bleed it first. The connect everything and bleed it from the slave. There is usually a round hole in the bottom of the bulkhead with a black plastic or rubber cover. You can get access to the slave from there.

    I use a back bleeder, but I imagine you could bleed it with someone depressing the clutch for you.

    Make sure to get the correct fluid. I think it's castrol gt lma? Just ask RN, they'll give you the right stuff. Get a big canister - it's cheap and you'll use it when you do your brakes.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Glenwood,N.B. Canada
    Posts
    78

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by PI Guy
    If it is the slave do I have to take the fender off to get at it?
    Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated. Thank you.
    Not really........you can make a lateral cut in the top of the fender with your angle grinder and peel the fender back, when you are finished pop rivett a cover strip over the cut

    note This type of fix usually pisses the purists off
    regards; Dave
    A 1997 Discovery guy from


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,323

    Default You don't have to even remove the wing...

    I just did this job on a '71 IIA 88 at the weekend.

    Assuming it is a LHD.
    - Remove the splash guard and steerign box shield from the wheel well.
    - Disconnect the clutch pipes from the master cylinder.
    - Undo the six screws securing the pedal tower to the bulkhead.
    - It is quite simple to manouver the pedal tower assembly out through the wheel arch. I may be wrong but the earlier single circuit barking system trucks should be easier than my later dual circuit as there is no servo to avoid.

    Its pretty simple and avoids any major disassembly or modifications to the bodywork.

    Cheers
    Gregor

  5. #5

    Default

    Gregor, your shortcut assumes the clutch plunger will be adjusted correctly - using your way, you'd have to take the whole thing out again to adjust it and then rebleed.

    Taking the wing off is not major.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Plum Island
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Ordered the parts today from RN. Ended up going w/ just a rebuild kit to save a little $ (just bought a house, so for now I have to cut some corners).I started removing the wing tonight. Is there any way to disconnect the side markers without cutting the wires. I haven't cut them yet and really don't want to. Thanks for all the input.
    Tight lines

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    664

    Default

    There should be bullets that pull out... however, if they've never come apart before now, at this point, they may not come apart....
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD
    '95 Discovery

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    664

    Default

    Well, not come apart without some "persuasion"....
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD
    '95 Discovery

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,323

    Default A little forethought and some ingenuity and adjustment can be done.

    "Your shortcut assumes the clutch plunger will be adjusted correctly - using your way, you'd have to take the whole thing out again to adjust it and then rebleed."

    1st thing to do is measure the position of the nut on the old master cyl before removing it. Setting your new master cyl to this dimension will put you pretty close to where you need it to be thus minimizing the need for adjustment.

    2nd - Before dismantling everything I was able to get the top cover off to check the condition of the slave. I have a short 13mm spanner with a bent head that allows me to make adjustments in situ.

    Cheers
    Gregor

  10. #10

    Default top of wing is different

    Quote Originally Posted by greenmeanie

    2nd - Before dismantling everything I was able to get the top cover off to check the condition of the slave. I have a short 13mm spanner with a bent head that allows me to make adjustments in situ.

    Cheers
    Gregor
    The top of the wing on a 66 IIa is totally different. It covers far more of the pedal box. The wing doesn't have the cutout for the booster/master.

    See pic:


 

 

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