Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Valve Guide and Seal O Ring replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Carlisle PA
    Posts
    82

    Default Valve Guide and Seal O Ring replacement

    After removing the head of the '64 Series IIA and removing the valves, I happened upon another issue. There is a chip in the head of one of the exhaust valve guides. Best I can tell, I pretty much need a machine shop to replace it, but that leads to a few questions.
    Attachment 10363
    The chip doesn't go down as far as the O ring, so it is possible it is just cosmetic, but it seems that if possible it should be replaced. The guides I see on Rovers North look very different than what I have. Presumably I have the old style which I didn't find.

    Is it reasonable to replace just the one valve guide with the new style, and will it even fit?
    Does the new style guide require a new valve?
    I have two other exhaust valves wanting to be replaced, would I need new guides for them?
    For the old style guides, if I were to try and replace the seals, what is the best way to remove and install them?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chuckstp View Post
    The chip doesn't go down as far as the O ring, so it is possible it is just cosmetic, but it seems that if possible it should be replaced. The guides I see on Rovers North look very different than what I have. Presumably I have the old style which I didn't find.

    Is it reasonable to replace just the one valve guide with the new style, and will it even fit?
    Does the new style guide require a new valve?
    I have two other exhaust valves wanting to be replaced, would I need new guides for them?
    For the old style guides, if I were to try and replace the seals, what is the best way to remove and install them?
    To me, this is one of those situations where if you are going to replace one valve guide and 2 valves on an engine that's already apart and on an engine that you want to continue to run till eternity, it would probably be wise just to replace ALL the guides, ALL the valves and ALL the seals. You know, a routine valve job.

    If the engine is ragged out and you just want to get by till you have more spare cash lying around and can do the full job, just replace the 2 valves and however many seals and drive it till it don't drive anymore.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    If you are in that deep, replace all the valve guides.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Carlisle PA
    Posts
    82

    Default

    The big concern is that the new style guides are interchangeable with the old ones. It sounds like they are. It looks like they are certainly more serviceable than the old ones. My assumption is that I shouldn't have to see them again for quite some time though. I hope to get to the point where I am putting things back together rather than taking them apart, but I suppose I'll have to put that off for just a bit longer.

    Thanks for the input.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    East Granby, CT
    Posts
    1,884

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chuckstp View Post
    For the old style guides, if I were to try and replace the seals, what is the best way to remove and install them?
    Carefully pick them out - I used a dental pick. Put some oil on the new o-rings and carefully install them. It's quite easy.
    Last edited by jac04; 11-13-2014 at 03:21 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Carlisle PA
    Posts
    82

    Default

    I got the head back today with the new exhaust valve, and am in the process of re-installing the valves with the new gasket set. Now a new challenge presents itself. There are two sets of valve gaskets which presumably are for the input and exhaust valves and of course are unidentified.

    One set is slightly smaller in diameter and contains a spring on the shoulder the around circumference of guide while the larger of the two does not contain a spring. My assumption is the larger is the one for the exhaust, but looking at the pictures of the parts on the web, both seem to contain a spring. The manual doesn't seem to be of any help here.

    Can anyone confirm whether the larger diameter is the exhaust, and whether they should or should not have the spring?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    What are the part numbers on the bags for the valve stem seals?
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,020

    Default

    Try mic-ing the stems of the valves, exhaust should vary from inlet. Though if my memory serves me correctly, the seal with the spring should go on the exhaust valve.
    Les Parker
    Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
    Rovers North Inc.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Carlisle PA
    Posts
    82

    Default

    The problem is there are no part numbers on the bag anywhere. All of them came in the same zip-lock bag along with some copper washers and rubber O-Rings. Anyway, since the shaft of the exhaust valves are larger, I used the larger of the two and swiped the spring from the inlet seal and put it on prior to installing it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Pa.
    Posts
    287

    Default

    While we are discussing valve guides/ seals...A little off topic: Having never been in a 2.6 European 6 cyl. Can anyone tell me how the valve guide's are sealed on these engines? I'm starting to suspect my intake's are pulling some oel in past them.
    Do they use an umbrella seal that rides up & down with the valve? Or use a positive seal that presses onto the guide & the valve slides up & down inside it..Or use a small ring like the General Motors engine that seals only the top retainer...
    I have never had the occasion to pull my valve cover as my truck is used less than 400 miles per year...I can hear the valves, but none are excessively quiet or noisy.. Truck is used in the summer to go once weekly to the antique/flea mkt...Parked in the winter & NEVER driven in the salt....IT IS A GREAT FLEA MARKET TRUCK......... want to keep it...........thanks, Donnie
    I spent most of my money on women & cars, the rest of it I just wasted.......

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us