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Thread: Floor panel sealing

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Davenport, IA
    Posts
    325

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    I just use regular silicone caulk. Cheap, easy, had it around, and I'm likely to be in and out of there at least once a year for one thing or another. I would think, as Jac said, window glazing would be way too tenacious. A full round of that will mean a VERY difficult time next time you need in there. Even silicone made it rough (and because of that, I haven't even resealed yet). The gray rope might be good, though I've had it leave annoying residue after time (though so does silicone).

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

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    Silicone is a disaster. It's not reusable or easily removed. Once you break the original silicone seal (which will require a razor blade) it needs to be completely removed, cleaned and reapplied. Removing cured silicone is not fun - try it...

    Window glazing works well in that it's easily removed and reapplied - it's basically flat 3M strip calk. A little persistent pressure breaks the seal. Cleanup/removal is simple - no tools, scraping or razor blades. It sticks to itself better than the surface it is applied to. Use a ball of window glazing to dab/remove it. It's already flat and flattens pretty evenly with tighteninging/compressing but doesn't ooze, drip or run like silicone but it's just as weather tight.

    The gray rope stuff oxidizes, degrades and turns into a gum-like substance over time that is also a disaster to remove. If you're going to seal it once and never ever open it again. I still wouldn't recomend silicone. To boot, and this is important, many types of silicones attack aluminum (acetic acid) and trap moisture against aluminum. Do yourself a favor. Don't ever apply silicone to your rover.

    Yep, I hate silicone.
    Last edited by lumpydog; 12-11-2014 at 03:15 PM.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

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