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Thread: Noob to Rover/Oldie to British

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default Noob to Rover/Oldie to British

    I just rescued a 1971 Series IIa 88 for an abusive home (no maintenance in years). I'm replacing all tires, wheel bearings, brakes, wheel cylinders, the cracked exhaust manifold, generator, water pump, all hoses, flushing the radiator and heater core, pan gasket, valve cover gasket, new points, distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and other stuff.

    I'll drain all cases, fill all zerks, change oil, etc.

    I'll re-torque the head bolts, adjust the valves (compression is good), start it up, time it, and adjust the carb (Weber or so it appears - must be verified). Once I get it running sufficiently I'll see what else it needs. I intend to keep it as a survivor since it has no rust. Maybe later a frame off, but right now I'll just get the kinks worked out.

    Am I missing something specific to Series Rovers? I've rebuilt several British sports cars (the last one a 1959 TR3) so I do know so in's and out's of British engineering. But I don't want to miss something important!!

    Thanks in advance.
    David



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    Last edited by slowmo; 12-15-2014 at 05:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    California
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Oil drip pan for the garage or driveway
    Very nice old truck BTW best of luck with it !!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

    Default

    Clean the grounds, but since you know Lucas, you already knew this.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    My wife is well conditioned to the Exxon Valdez aspect of British cars, thank goodness. I think the oil leaking may be why the truck has no rust. The underside is well lubricated. Drip pan. Check.

    Concerning Lucas, I will try to keep the smoke inside the wires instead of freeing it.

    I've got the Green book on order, but so far I haven't found instructions for the Weber carb and I know nothing about it, though I figure we will be acquainted soon. Anyone have a tune up manual PDF for the carb?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    The manuals for the truck and the carb are widely available from several online locations. You need to spend about 15 seconds with google and it can all be yours free for download.
    There is not very much NOS for these anymore. If you need parts you'll have to appeal to the hoarders, surf eBay, buy parts trucks or make it yourself. There is however a crap ton of counterfeit and reproduction parts varying in quality from marginally useful to patent garbage. Caveat emptor.
    Personally I wouldn't touch the head bolts unless it is to replace a gasket.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
    Personally I wouldn't touch the head bolts unless it is to replace a gasket.
    Why? I generally would think of making sure they were torqued properly before gapping the valves. This is the kind of info I am looking for!
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Posts
    889

    Default

    If there is a copper head gasket in there, you need to re torque the head, or you will blow the head gasket. If it is a composite gasket you are fine. Since you aren't sure, torque them.

    As far as parts availability, we all keep our trucks on the road with re manufactured parts for the most part. Some parts are better than others, but don't be scared for off. There are work arounds and parts available to fix everything you will ever need aside from a few things.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    Thanks for the info. Compared to getting parts for a 1959 TR3 I am finding Series IIa parts a piece of cake...and...cough, cough actually quite reasonable. I shouldn't have said that. Of course I have not been buying heavy metal yet.

    I just started exploring the forum so some of my questions are being answered with a little research. For example I'll see which carb I have when I get home and find tuning instructions on line (or scream for help again if not).

    I will say, in my one week of ownership and tearing off parts, this truck is so easy to work on. Working on a British sports car is a character builder (or destroyer depending on which frozen bolt you are trying to remove). Everything on the Series is right there and ready to remove. Love it...so far.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    836

    Default

    Slomo, these trucks are great to wrench on, very easy. With moderate apptitude mechanical skills you can do everything. And always ask here for help when in doubt. The green bibles are great place to start. Just a thought for any series rover sitting for a while drain the tank, usually loads of crud in the fuel, but, looks great best of luck with it, Oh what did you name it?
    Cheers.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    Good one! Tank will be screened. Hadn't thought of that one.

    I'll have to drive it a little to arrive at a name, however, from what I have read slow-mo may be a descriptive name. Sort of why I choose it as my forum moniker.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

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