Setting Ign Timing on 63IIA

[timc930]

I've got a light, and know how to use it, but I am not sure with the age of these vehicles and quality of gas, a light is the best method, and being that I am somewhat new to the series trucks, can someone please explain to me how set the timing "static" and what the hell the timing adjustment screw is on the distributor and how to use it????

I figured I'd get it correct via static, then adjust until it pings and then just back off until no more pinging....

tim

[jac04]

For the static timing, reference the Green Bible for adjustment. If original 63 specs, you should not have a timing pointer & mark on the crank pulley - you will need to set static through the inspection opening on the bellhousing.

The adjustment screw on the dist is fairly self-explanatory. Turn it in the direction of "A" for advance or "R" for retard. Use it to fine tune so that it just starts to ping when pulling a decent grade in high gear.

Similar discussion here at the moment:
http://forums.roversnorth.com/showth...on-earlier-IIA

[lumpydog]

A light is a good tool to get you in the neighborhood but going by sound/feel will truly get you to the right place with your engine. Series Rovers are like fiddles - every one is different and the owner learns how to tune and play it. The green bible does a nice job at explaining the process but the published numbers are based on old fuel mixtures (leaded gas) that don't exist any more so the published timing settings aren't really accurate today. Also, your engine may have been re-built and rebored to a higher compression ratio. Octane rating makes a difference too. Higher octane ratings generally require more advance... A lot of variables unique to your situation.

Here's how I tune my fiddle ;-)
My distributor, a Ducellier, doesn't have an adjustment screw. You just loosen the shaft collar and rotate the entire distributor by hand. Counterclockwise to advance the spark (to occur earlier in the firing stroke) and clockwise to retard the spark to happen later in the firing stroke. What I found works well is to use two senses - sound and feel.

I use a timing light to get the distributor set to fire cylinder 1 at top dead center (TDC) and then go by feel/sound from there. You can do this by (with the engine running) leaning against the breakfast with your chest and rotating the distributor (or turning the adjustment screw in your case) with your left hand. By leaning against the breakfast you can really feel the engine vibration. Try advancing and retarding the spark to extremes and feeling the engine idle slow down and hear/feel it run rough (almost stall) when the spark is too retarded or hear the engine ping and feel it run rough when it's too advanced. As you turn the distirbutor from too advanced to too retarded, you can hear and feel a "sweet spot" range somewhere in the middle - where the engine runs smooth and the idle is faster. It's a small zone that you can then play within, trying to get the timing as advanced as possible within that sweet spot range - without causing excessive pinging under load.

Set the distirbutor in place once you've got it to where you like the sound/feel and then go drive up a hill. Under load, because you are climbing the hill, see if you get any pinging. If you do, retard the timing slightly and test drive again. Too advanced = pinging under load. Too retarded = low power and bucking/hesitation/sputtering when under load or shifting gears.

My advance is about 7 degrees on an engine running 89 octane on what was originally an 8:1 compression engine that has reboared (.20+) cylinders. But that's my fiddle... Yours will tune differently.

If you search, you will likely read about the "beer method" - which is a good proxy for setting timing by feel. A glass of liquid (beer), sitting on one of the wing tops, will show tight concentric circles when the engine is running rough - and will become placid as the engine runs smooth and is in the sweet spot range.

Before recently tuning my Rover, she was running with the timing set to TDC. Way too retarded. I was experiencing a lot of hesitation when starting out in 1st gear and also when shifting. The exhaust was spitting out a lot of carbon soot and water. My spark plugs were sooty. All due to incomplete burn of the fuel mixture due to late ignition. I've said before - these trucks "talk to you" - if you know what to look and listen for.

I'm a relative noob and am still learning - so if I've missed anything here, jump in and let me know.

[timc930]

So before I make any adjustments via rotating the dist, would it be safe, and a good idea to first set the timing adj screw in the middle so that I have equal rotations for advance and retard for the fine tuning, then reset the timing with the dist?

Where to I connect the test light for the static adjustments?

[lumpydog]

IY

So before I make any adjustments via rotating the dist, would it be safe, and a good idea to first set the timing adj screw in the middle so that I have equal rotations for advance and retard for the fine tuning, then reset the timing with the dist?

Where to I connect the test light for the static adjustments?

Tim

Centering the screw seems like a good idea so you can use it for micro adjustments once you are in the sweet spot range.

With regard to where to to hook up the static timing bulb, see the image/instructions below (all I have access to while I'm on vacation). They are for a series 3 but same idea for your truck. Remember my comment that the published numbers are no longer really accurate. Go by sound/feel.

[timc930]

Thank you!!

Tim

[lumpydog]

Thank you!!

Tim

You bet. Be safe. Don't wear loose clothing that can get fouled in the cooing fan. Wear protective insulated gloves so the distributor can't ground-out through you and give you a good shock while you are holding/rotating it.

[jac04]

IMO, you are making it more complicated than required. Put the adjuster in the middle, then keep rotating the distributor until it just starts to ping under load, then back it off a little. The only issue with 'timing by ear' is that you can still have inaudible knock (ping) that is bad over the long term.

[lumpydog]

IMO, you are making it more complicated than required.

Haha - true! But, the first time you do this, good to understand how it all works and why you're doing it. Second time around, piece of cake ;-)

[jac04]

Haha - true! But, the first time you do this, good to understand how it all works and why you're doing it. Second time around, piece of cake ;-)

Good point.
I spent many hours re-setting the mechanical & vacuum advance curves on my 68 Camaro. That little L30 327 pulls like a freight train now. Too bad there doesn't seem to be much to be gained on the 2.25 in terms of power.