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Thread: Low beams not working

  1. #11

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    Test lamp is a great help, start at the head lamp and work back to each connection, also have a meter nearby and check continuity from headlamp to each connection. Another hint, jumper wire from battery to headlamp, make sure both sides work, it does get rather embarassing when you find that the hi/lo side that doesnt work, it doesnt because its burned out.

    Good hunting! Bruce

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Haddonfield NJ
    Posts
    23

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    I was able to get into the front of the truck after removing the grill to find the connections. I noticed that they were all wrapped real tight with electrical tape and after pealing back the layers I finally found the Blue and Red wire. I removed the wire and sanded the connection and snapped it back in. Still nothing, so I tested the connection with a light tester and it doesn't seem to be getting any power. The high beams do, but not the the blue and reds. Where is the next area this could be checked? I attached a photo of what everything looks like under the grill.




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  3. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    Well...Next stop for the blue/red on the upstream side is the contact on the stalk where the headlamp power is switched to go either to the high beam wire (which it does) or to the low beam circuit. This happens on the upper switch on part #25 on the schematic I linked to earlier.

    While you're under the grille, if you remove the fat blue/white wire from its 4-way connector and plug it in place of the fat blue/red wire on that 4-way connector then turn on the HIGH beams, do your low beams now illuminate (you're using the high beam wire to supply power the low beams to make sure the low beam filaments aren't both burned out)?
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Haddonfield NJ
    Posts
    23

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    I switched the highs with the lows and at least now I can drive with the low beams on and not blind anyone. I will need to take a look at the switch on the wheel, as now my horn has stopped working. Fun times...

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Brewer, Maine
    Posts
    1,379

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    Typical Rover electrical issues. Don't get discouraged and keep testing. You will locate the problem eventually.
    Jim

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boppie View Post
    I switched the highs with the lows and at least now I can drive with the low beams on and not blind anyone. I will need to take a look at the switch on the wheel, as now my horn has stopped working. Fun times...
    Yeah, I drove around like this for a while before I found the time to install a replacement turn signal stalk. Just gotta resist the urge to turn off your high beams when cars approach at night.

    As far as the switch goes, I've found that there's no fixing them--They're manufactured in a manner that makes them disposable when they experience a failure. Good news is that they're fairly easy to swap out.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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