Defender Rear Bumper/Tow Bar on a Series III 109

[toga Rover]

Hs anyone tried to mate the rear bumper of a Defender to the rear crossmember of a series truck? Is it a straight bolt/weld up, or are there modifications involved?

id like to incorporate a class 3 hitch, and not loose any ground clearance in the process. I swapped out the motor for an Isuzu 4BD1T and a Dodge Ram 5-speed tranny, with Disco axles (4-wheel disc brakes), so I have more that enough umph to pull a trailer.


similar to this:
http://www.roverparts.com/product/im...F883_LARGE.jpg


Thanks in Advance.

TogaRover

[LaneRover]

Though our hosts have some great hitches for series trucks, here is the one that I use.
http://www.roversnorth.com/Land-Rover-Parts/22
If you don't want to lose ground clearence have you looked at one of Ike's? http://www.pangolin4x4.com/land-rove...uct-6355339552
No welding or exchanging of rear cross members for either of these.

[toga Rover]

Hey LaneRover,

RN does offer some quality hitches, but theirs reduces clearance.

I saw Ike's hitch on an 88 at a gas station last summer. Nice and clean, but a definite shin buster. I am in and out of that 5th door a lot, and I know my legs would pay the price.

I stopped by AB today and looked at their yellow '95 D90 that they are prepping for sale. Gorgeous truck. Noticed that defender rear bumper would also hang below the crossmember and would need a lot of custom fab work.

Next stop. My CAD program to think up a custom hitch. Stay tuned.........

P.S. I was born in Jacksonville at the Naval Hosp, and me and my family vacation in Maine - small world.


TogaRover.

[SafeAirOne]

There's always this option, or something along these lines (presuming you don't have a 109 wagon); No change in departure angle, minimal fabrication required, almost unnoticeable when painted black and is shin-safe:

[o2batsea]

The Defender rear bar you show will not fit a series rear crossmember.
Bless mark's heart but that drawing is super overkill, plus I'm not sure how you'd install it without taking the tub off. Anyway, I was going to make my own, which is nothing more than some 3/8 plate with an off the shelf receiver tube welded on, but I found a bloke on eBay who was making just such a thing. It was galvanized, and had the benefit of being made already. Paid $50 and it is now attached to the back of my 109 wagon. Came with backing plates. I haven't seen the guy advertising them lately.
You can see it here:
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...6&d=1403125305

Here's how to roll your own:
http://www.tinshackrestoration.com/2...h-for-the-bar/

[SafeAirOne]

I'm not sure how you'd install it without taking the tub off.

Hmm...I can't remember if there's anything in the way back there on a non-station wagon or not. There's an enormous fuel tank in the way on 5-door wagons of course.

The hitch in the photo of your 109 looks similar to one of Ike's 4x4 Tow Hitch (it may not be, but is very similar). It's the most painless/sensible way to go, but that design was previously eliminated from consideration as it sticks out too far for the OP's shins, hence the rather complicated PITA setup in my drawing:

I saw Ike's hitch on an 88 at a gas station last summer. Nice and clean, but a definite shin buster. I am in and out of that 5th door a lot, and I know my legs would pay the price.

[SafeAirOne]

...of course, if you DO want to remove the rear tub for installation, the hitch is a whole lot easier to fabricate and attach by simply welding in. It won't need to be as wide to make up (structurally) for the big hole through the center of the crossmember if the plates are welded to the crossmember:

[toga Rover]

Hey Mark,

Great design work. Mine is a '73 5-door station wagon, so I have that big fuel tank to contend with.


[QUOTE=SafeAirOne;102691]There's always this option, or something along these lines (presuming you don't have a 109 wagon);/QUOTE]

[parksy]

Now that looks really useful!

Great work Mark

[SafeAirOne]

Mine is a '73 5-door station wagon, so I have that big fuel tank to contend with.

Ahh, well...I suspect there'll have to be a compromise somewhere along the way then--I can't think of a method that meets all the criteria without doing any tank-dropping, unfortunately. I'm not saying it's impossible, I'm just saying a method doesn't exist in my brain. Perhaps others have ideas?

When I removed the Dixon-Bate adjustable tow jaw setup from my rear crossmember, I had to cut the heads off the bolts and leave the shanks floating around inside the mounting holes in the rear crossmember because there's not enough clearance between the forward surface of the crossmember and the tank to get the shanks out.

One of these days when I make an aluminum station wagon fuel tank to swap out with my rusty steel one, I'll get those bolt shanks out.