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Thread: Drive Door Lock Gets Stuck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    raleigh, nc
    Posts
    16

    Default Drive Door Lock Gets Stuck

    My keyless entry doesn't work right now, so I'm old schooling it and locking/unlocking with the key and recently it's been getting super hard to lock the door from the outside. It'll lock with enough force (bent one of my keys and had bend it back), but its a slow lock, like trying to run in water. It also no longer triggers the lights to blink signaling that it's locked/makes the interior lights go off.

    Any idea what might be causing this and/or how to fix it?
    First Time Rover Owner / Black 95 Range Rover County Classic 3.9L bought Oct. '14 / 135K

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Cupertino, CA USA
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi donarba,

    Although my keyless fob works (most of the time), I too have the same problem as you do. I took my '95 RRC County LWB to a "Classic LR" mechanic to diagnose it and he was able to find that the problem was two-fold: 1) the lock mechanism had failed on the "lock" side and 2) the electronic lock sensor was not working due to a mechanical failure in the attachment arm. The total for fixing the issues was over US$1000 and I chose not to have it performed. The cost of labor is steep due to the fact that the entire window frame assembly needs to be completely taken out of the door to access the door lock mechanism; the parts are over US$500 as well.

    So, when my keyless system is on the fritz, I do the following: make sure all the passenger doors/lift gate are locked, then manually lock the driver's door, insert my key in the lock and turn it anti-clockwise, then shut the door. It locks OK and unlocks very well (that was never a problem).

    Anyway, I hope you can get it fixed - perhaps you can find good, used parts. I found a used electronic locking mechanism for under US$200, but I was too uncertain that it would last.

    Bob
    Grin and bear it!

    Bob



    1995 Range Rover Classic, LWB - 70,000 miles and going strong!
    1998 Land Rover Discombobulator, OMG - 100,000 miles and died of multiple self-inflicted injuries.
    2005 Range Rover HSE - 177,000 miles and had the good sense to die before I paid for it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Cupertino, CA USA
    Posts
    2

    Default Lubed and working!

    Hi again donarba,

    I forgot that you were the one who posted the door lock issue... I posted this on RangeRovers.net, but thought I would re-posted it here, if it can help you.

    A little while back I purchased a spray can of Pro Lube II/MIL-PRF-32033 but never really used it on anything other than my office door hinges and lockset. I found it by a book in my office a couple of weeks ago and decided to spray-lube my RRC's door hinges and limit arms - the lube did such a good job I placed it in the back of the truck. Shortly after that my door locks had problems that caused my alarm system to go off every time I used the key fob to lock it, so I pulled the two fuses that control it, but also lost the auto door locking.

    Today I got tired of not having the keyless system and decided to see if Pro Lube would work on the locks, and it did! After a good spray using the "little red plastic straw" inserted in the lock, spraying as deep as I could get, then moving it up and down, I let both locks "soak" for about 20 minutes, and CLICK, the locks worked like a charm with the key. I decided to "reset the alarm system" by pulling the negative wire from the battery, reattaching it, replacing the fuses, and after using the key fob, another beautiful CLICK from all the locks and no problems - the locks stayed locked and didn't bounce up again!

    Now, I'm not a Pro Lube salesman - I'm sure WD-40 would work too - I just didn't have any at the office. So, if anyone has lock problems, like everything else on an LR/RR, lube 'em up and unless there are true mechanical problems everything should work!
    Grin and bear it!

    Bob



    1995 Range Rover Classic, LWB - 70,000 miles and going strong!
    1998 Land Rover Discombobulator, OMG - 100,000 miles and died of multiple self-inflicted injuries.
    2005 Range Rover HSE - 177,000 miles and had the good sense to die before I paid for it.

  4. #4

    Default

    Had similar problems on my 1988 RRC with respect to the door lock. Yes the window frame has to come out but it isnt that hard to do if you want to do it. Uncoupling all the levers on the other hand ... but I got there.

    Now the electric lock actuator seems to have given up the ghost ... or is that just a result of the battery having a really low charge in it?

    Paul

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