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Thread: Cold Start indicator

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default Cold Start indicator

    I don't have the manual in front of me, but my cold start indicator is on all the time. What is this even for and is the indicator triggered? I am going to tackle gauges and indicators one after the other since none of them actually seem to function.

    Thanks.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Slo

    It's a simple switch. It's clamped onto your choke cable. When you pull out the choke, the switch button pops out (activates the light) as the choke arm/knob is pulled out. Slide the choke in and it obstructs/closes the button, turning the light off.

    This one should be simple - remove the 5 instrument panel screws and look for a small box clamped onto the choke cable immediately behind the instrument panel. It's probably loose or maybe slid out of place. The choke cable has three holes in it - two for bumps in the choke light switch box that keep it in place. One middle hole where the choke light switch button protrudes through - and toggles on/off with the slide of the cable.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    Ah. I thought there was a sensor somewhere which gave the indication to use the choke and that the sensor was kaput. Instead, it is just a reminder that you are using the choke. Silly me.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Plattsburgh NY area
    Posts
    1,011

    Default

    some systems also have a temp switch at front of the engine near Tstat housing. You pull the choke cable which closes the switch discussed above. This switch is in series with the temp switch. So when you have the choke on and the engine reaches a set temp the choke (cold start) light comes on telling you that you have the choke pulled and the engine is warm.
    Probably a problem with the switch noted above it is staying on.
    THING 1 - 1973 88 SIII - SOLD
    THING 2 -1974 88 SIII Daily Driver - SOLD
    THING 3 - 1969 88 SIIA Bugeye Project
    THING 4 - 1971 109 SIIA ExMod - SOLD
    THING 5 - 1958 109 PU
    THING 6 - 1954 86" HT

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Well, lumpydog's answer MAY be correct. Some engines had a simple system that merely went through the light switch then to ground as described by lumpydog, and some went through that same switch, enabling the light, then on to a temperature-activated switch (sometimes known as an "otter" switch) on the front of the engine, which illuminated the light by grounding the circuit once the engine is warm, reminding you to "turn off" the choke, so to speak...



    [EDIT:] Bob beat me to it--I spent too much time researching the name of the thermal switch.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    No otter switch on my engine. I wondered how that second temp sensor worked on trucks where I've seen it...

    So, if he has one, it sounds like a simple way for Slo to test if it's a faulty otter switch - Would be to see if the cold start light is coming on right away, before the engine is even warmed up. Pull out the choke, and turn the start key to the point where the dash lights come on - but don't start it... and see if the cold start light comes on. If it does, that would point to the otter switch because it's grounding the circuit without the engine being warm. Correct?

    But, even if it's a faulty otter switch, the the switch on the choke cable should be able to break the circuit if it's functioning properly...
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    Well, lumpydog's answer MAY be correct. Some engines had a simple system that merely went through the light switch then to ground as described by lumpydog, and some went through that same switch, enabling the light, then on to a temperature-activated switch (sometimes known as an "otter" switch) on the front of the engine, which illuminated the light by grounding the circuit once the engine is warm, reminding you to "turn off" the choke, so to speak...



    [EDIT:] Bob beat me to it--I spent too much time researching the name of the thermal switch.
    Yep - I need this otter switch. I believe it is part number 545010 called a Thermostat Switch or Choke Light Switch. Different from the switch on the cable, which I removed. The switch on the cable tells you the opposite of what the Otter switch tells you. Otter switch says - hey - use your cold start. Switch on the cable says, hey, push in your cold start cable. Hard to find the otter switch. Rovers North doesn't seem to have it anymore.
    Thanks!
    Mike

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    5

    Default Otter Switch for Choke Light

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeshaw247 View Post
    Yep - I need this otter switch. I believe it is part number 545010 called a Thermostat Switch or Choke Light Switch. Different from the switch on the cable, which I removed. The switch on the cable tells you the opposite of what the Otter switch tells you. Otter switch says - hey - use your cold start. Switch on the cable says, hey, push in your cold start cable. Hard to find the otter switch. Rovers North doesn't seem to have it anymore.
    Thanks!
    Mike
    I did find one. Yep - called Otter Switch, it seems everywhere. Now I just need to test mine to see if it's really broken.

    Thanks all!
    Mike

  9. #9

    Default

    Hi all, great info in this thread. My 1975 SIII 109 has the otter switch (no wire attached), and what appears to be a previously replaced choke cable with no cold start cable switch. The wires behind my cold start dashboard indicator light were cut. Does anyone know if the otter switch and choke cable switch were meant to exist together, or was it either/or? If they were meant to exist together, does anyone know the correct way to wire everything up?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    303

    Default

    The otter switch and cable switch work together , and are connected in Series. Wiring goes from ignition switch , through the warning light, then the cable switch and finally connected to the otter switch which completes the circuit to ground when the engine up to temp. Both the cable ( Choke operated) and otter ( Engine Warm) switches need to operate to illuminate the light. During the S3 production the otter switch was deleted and just the cable switch retained, which meant the light illuminated whenever the choke operated.
    Last edited by roverp480; 07-19-2023 at 07:06 AM. Reason: Further explanation

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