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Thread: Coiler series using Disco or RRC chassis

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    5

    Default Coiler series using Disco or RRC chassis

    Guys -
    I am still in research and parts collection mode trying to build a stretched series rover using either discovery or RRC chassis and drivetrain. I have all the necessary parts for 130 like cab now and the rest is going to be a camper.

    My question - All the conversions seem to have some type of body lift. Is this necessary to clear the rear bump in the rover coiler chassis or is there something up front forcing the lift. I am trying to get to stock look on the front with the exception of fender flares

    thanks in advance
    ggops

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    1,166

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    I dunno where this fantasy comes from that one can use a Disco or RRC chassis and put a Series body on it. You'd be better off building a chassis from scratch. You need to obtain the spring perches and the radius/trailing arm mounts and weld them onto the Series chassis along with a crossmember for the rear A arm. That and the engine mounts for whatever lump you decide. The transmission support can either be a fabricated thing or use the official Land Rover ones. You can build in as much stretch as you want. You will remove the Series chassis bulkhead cross member. I also suggest converting to power steering.
    The mounts can be carefully cut out of a donor chassis or you can buy them new, ready to weld on.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    5

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    Is this not a popular option, i remember seeing a RRC in your build as well. I have read many different threads on this approach of using a RRC chassis. I am just not sure why the series body is lifted up a couple of inches and i am trying to avoid that.

    I would rather extend the chassis or attach new body mounts than try fabricate suspension mounts. I am also looking for a rolling 110 chassis if that makes it any easier. However the cost seems prohibitive.

    I have a good series 88 chassis that can be stretched but am not sure i want to go with leaf springs. this truck is more for touring and light offroading - no rock climbing or in the mud activities.

  4. #4
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    Oct 2006
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    I rejected the RRC/Disco chassis for a number of reasons. Number one was the fact that aside from the main rails and suspension mounts, there is nothing that will move your project forward. In fact, the thing has to be cut and pasted in so many ways that there will be little of the original left. The reason you see so many "lifted" is that the RRC chassis curves ans swoops in places the Series does not. So you end up raising the floor height enough to clear all that. Looks like, well, a hack job.
    You will be WAY ahead of the game by calling Iain at Designa Chassis and have him build you exactly what you need. yes, it will hurt your bank account..a lot...but the advantage is that you are not spending endless hours with steel work. Plus it will be brand new, galvanized, and everything will just bolt up. You have to figure that your time is worth something. I think if you add up what you are spending in time and effort on an old chassis (only to end up with...an old chassis) you'll see that it makes a lot of sense to farm this one out.
    I was lucky enough to fall into a good deal from Evil Ron on his Designa Chassis, so I didn't have to order from the UK.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    5

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    batsea, thanks for sharing your experience. you confirmed my assumptions on the need to lift the floor to clear the chassis variations. However my project has its own twists, I am building an expedition vehicle using series fenders, bulkhead,doors (front and middle ) from a 109 and rear firewall from a defender 130 including the roof. the rear is going to be a custom Box serving the RV needs.

    So i am only interested in the front of the chassis to ensure my cab does not have to be lifted to clear chassis variances (upto the middle door). I don't mind working out the height variations in my custom rv box in the back.

    Starting with a defender 110 chassis is an option , After close comparison it looks like i will be able to use only the bulkhead outriggers and have to weld new posts for remaining and then extend the chassis another 17 plus inches depending on the rear rv layout

    I am trying to get in touch with Designa, no responses to email or calls. i will try next week. I a looking to get a rover 109 chassis with coiler suspension with the necessary extension.

    The designa web site indicates the coiler suspension using RRC components, that will help as there are plenty of them around

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,166

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    Yeh the Designa Chassis "empire" is just Iain. He does shows and stuff so he's not always home.
    A 110 chassis won't fit your Series bulkhead. You'll have to weld Series outriggers on. If you find an available used 110 chassis in the USA and it's not a pitted rusty mess consider yourself extremely lucky
    If it were me, and I was facing this again, I would take my Series chassis and alter it for coil suspension and do the mods you want. Then I'd have it chemically derusted (inside and out) and then galvanize it.
    Have a look at Shayne's 130 build. He just had Brian make up a total exo-cage for the truck and the rear box.

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