Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: Starter Solenoid on 63 IIa

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Enigma View Post
    What maintenance does one do for a starter? What lube do you use and where and how much should I use?

    I'm thinking along the lines of making sure the mechanism that throws the pinion out to engage the flywheel isn't all gunked up, that the rotor bearings have lubricant (if possible on the old starters--not sure what type of bearings they use), that the brushes aren't knackered, etc.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  2. #12

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    I'm thinking along the lines of making sure the mechanism that throws the pinion out to engage the flywheel isn't all gunked up, that the rotor bearings have lubricant (if possible on the old starters--not sure what type of bearings they use), that the brushes aren't knackered, etc.
    All good things if the starter is out. I was thinking routine maintenance.
    Tom Rowe

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

    62 88 reg
    67 NADA x2
    74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
    95 D1 - R380
    95 D90 - R380
    97 D1 - ZF

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Mt Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    117

    Default

    So I've cleaned all the connections, disconnected the battery cable, then moved the end at the switch over to the starter side, touched the battery cable to battery (now direct power to starter) and the starter still drags as if tremendous amount of resistance, but the truck will start and run fine, just takes a bit more. I think at this point I am going to pull the starter and just order one of the high torque Nippondenso starters from British Starters. I think I want to slowly upgrade all the electric components, already installed the Pertronix Dist and Coil. I'll post updates after I get the new starter installed.....

    tim
    Tim
    63 IIA 88" (Beach with the dogs)
    05 L322 (Daily)
    95 RRC SWB
    05 E320 (Wife)
    86 930 (Rush on boost, 400HP and climbing....)
    A few boring BMW's for the kids (E30, E36, E46, E53)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    The brushes on the starter motor are likely worn out. Take it to your local armature shop. They can refresh it for cheap. They'll turn the commutator, install brushes, check the bushings, lube it up and throw a coat of paint on it and probably only charge you $50.

  5. #15

    Default

    good pic Tom, had a Ford Explorer that the positive went under the bell housing and then up again to the starter, failed on me , thought it was the starter, checked some more, opened up the wire, had maybe 2 strands and whole lot of copper oxide.
    Also on my S III, the connector to the starter was steel! gave the same type of fail, pulled the wire, soldered in a copper connector and all is right with the world

    Bruce 73 Series III
    80 TR7 awaiting reinstall of head

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Carlisle PA
    Posts
    82

    Default

    I'm not sure I would completely discount the switch. That's not to say the issue isn't somewhere else, but the switch is simply closing a set of contacts and is prone to failure. Every time the contacts open or close, you can get arching which will tend to burn the contacts. Eventually, this will increase the resistance of the switch and it will likely have a brownout or intermittent phase before it goes completely bad.

    Unfortunately this isn't something you can check with an ohm meter, but you should be able to check for a voltage drop directly across the switch (or any of the wires in the circuit) when the switch is depressed. With my digital meter, I get about .33 volts across the switch when the starter is running. It takes about one second to get a good reading with the settling time of the meter.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Mt Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    117

    Default

    So finally got around to installing the starter from British Starters. Super small, light, and spins the little engine over like mad. Hopefully RN will carry this product....It was going to cost me over $100 to have the old one rebuilt, so I just purchased the one from BS.

    tim
    Tim
    63 IIA 88" (Beach with the dogs)
    05 L322 (Daily)
    95 RRC SWB
    05 E320 (Wife)
    86 930 (Rush on boost, 400HP and climbing....)
    A few boring BMW's for the kids (E30, E36, E46, E53)

  8. #18

    Default

    In the next few years I'd get a set of the solenoid contacts and stick in your traveling spares kit. They are about the only thing that goes on the Denso starters and they are an easy trail-side replacement.
    Tom Rowe

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

    62 88 reg
    67 NADA x2
    74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
    95 D1 - R380
    95 D90 - R380
    97 D1 - ZF

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us