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Thread: Still Stalling When Stopped

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    raleigh, nc
    Posts
    16

    Default Still Stalling When Stopped

    Just picked up my 95 RRC from the shop on Friday where I had a bunch of electrical work on the engine done (lots of the wires and such). Initially, I had to have it taken in as it wouldn't start, but even before then, I had issues with it stalling. Of course, it needed a new battery and cables replaced, but I wanted them to look into why it's been stalling when I come to a stop, mostly once the engine is hot. They ran the engine for 2 hours and had no issues. As soon as I picked it up and drove it 3 1/2 miles, I came to a stop light and it started to stall.

    I'm able to save it from completely stalling when I come to a stop by keeping pressure applied to the gas pedal while keeping my other foot pressed on the brake.

    They mentioned they ran a smoke test on the intake and there is a major leak in the manifold vacuum. Does anyone know if this could be causing the issue? They already adjusted the idle, which I notice, for the better, when it's temperature is not fully heated.

    Any help is much appreciated!
    First Time Rover Owner / Black 95 Range Rover County Classic 3.9L bought Oct. '14 / 135K

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Hi,

    I've got a series truck, so not familiar with RRC's, but inlet manifold leaks between the carb and the head are a cause of rough idling and a bad leak could be the cause of the stalling.

    A YouTube search will show you how to find the leak using brake cleaner or engine start.

    I'd be looking into the cause of the leak and fixing that first.

    Cheers,
    Warren.

    '71 Series IIa "Horace"
    88", RHD, 2.25 petrol.
    New Zealand.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by donarba View Post


    They mentioned they ran a smoke test on the intake and there is a major leak in the manifold vacuum. Does anyone know if this could be causing the issue? They already adjusted the idle, which I notice, for the better, when it's temperature is not fully heated.
    Fix the intake leak... then clean the idle air bypass valve off the plenum chamber (spray with brakes part cleaner without pulling the valve out. then wipe with a paper towel)

  4. #4

    Default

    I had a similar issue with my 90 Range Rover a few years ago. It turned out to be the Throttle Position Sensor. Its easily replaced with 2 screws but a bit pricey. I am now having similar issues with my 94 4.2L RR and suspect the same. The frequency of the stalling becomes greater as the part starts to malfunction. I believe this can be tested before investing in a replacement.

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