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Thread: Tub Alignment Problem

  1. #1
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    Default Tub Alignment Problem

    I have started reassembling my top to my tub and definitly have an alignment problem. When I dropped the top onto the tub I noticed an problem. With the back of the side panels on the tub and the front of the top sitting on the windscreen I have a large gap (~3/8") at the front Rt side of the side panel. And a small gap on the left side. I need to adjust the tub position, raise the front rt. My plan is to split the top, mount the side panels, and use a string line from the windscreen to the back of the side panels to position the tub vertically. Of course I have the seat base, floor panels, ect all bolted in. I Imagine it would be best to remove or at least loosen these parts befor attempting to adjust the tub. Otherwise I think all of this will hinder this effort. Does this proceedure make sense?
    I posted this same thing under a continuing thread but thought it might get lost under that same title.
    Bob

  2. #2
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    Oct 2006
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    North MS
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    Default

    I posted this same thing under a continuing thread but thought it might get lost under that same title.
    It won't get lost; we're not that dumb. Now where did I put that crescent wrench...


    Does this procedure make sense?
    Nope.


    It seems (at least for me) that the trickiest part of a restoration is always the last part, that being the roof. You put it on, and realize that it doesn't fit. And you wonder... what have I screwed up now? When in actuality it is usually something minor.

    First start with the sides (disassembled from the roof). Make sure that they line up with both the rear door, and the front doors (so that the gaps appear roughly the same). Then, *loosely* bolt down the sides. Now set the roof on, so that it is flush with the sides at the back (not flush with the windshield!). Now check the gap to see how far the windshield needs to come in to meet the bolt holes in the roof (be prepared for a shock; it can be an inch or more). Tighten the windshield hold down bolts (the two large nuts on either side of the windshield) to bring the windshield closer to the roof (don't over tighten!; you just want it close). Begin bolting the roof to the sides starting at the back. Hand tighten the bolts only. When you get to the front, have an assistant push in on the windshield so that you can get the bolts started. When you get them all started, begin tightening. Once the roof is tight, secure the side-panels to the tub. This is the best method that I have found.

    What happens is that the new rubber seal between the bulkhead and windshield must be compressed to allow the windshield to come back far enough to meet the roof. Because the seal is stiff, the windshield hold down bolts are not enough to bring the windshield close enough to bolt the roof on.
    Last edited by jp-; 07-06-2007 at 11:58 AM.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
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    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
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  3. #3
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    Default

    To elaborate a little more. I put the top on with the sides attached (never disassembled them) and pulled the windshield back so the holes line up (needed to pull it back about 1/4 -1/2"). With the top in this position I have the gaps between the tub and the sides with the passenger side much larger than the drivers side. Not all the parts are the original parts from this vehicle. I bought a rehabed rust free bulkhead and replaced my rotten SIII tub with a SII tub I bought. Is there anything drastically different with these tubs? I did have to make some modifications to the mounting brackets. The tub right now is essentially sitting on the frame tabs via the cross supports w/ rubber spacers.
    I have now removed the top from the sides.

  4. #4
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    Mass.
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    Are the doors on? If the doors are on and line up with the tub and close well I don't see why the roof wouldn't fit.
    Jason T.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Bloomfield, CT
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    Default

    Is this rebuild on a new frame? My experience is that Tubs are pretty uniform, but that there are some deviations in the new galvanized frames (Marsland, et al) I had a devil of a time getting the tub and doors even, where both the galvy trim was strainght and the gap between doors and tub, and doors and bulkhead were even and the same, side to side. In the end I had to raise the front edge of the tub and redrill it where the 5 tabs on the frame join, more on one side than the other, but at least 3/8"
    I wasn't even putting the old Hard Top back on, as this was going to be a soft top. It's preety easy to see why they close the doors and lift the whole body off when doing a frame replacement.

  6. #6
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    I'm getting more puzzled as I investigate this further. The rebuild was on a new frame bought on EBAY. I did dimension checks on the frame from the ones in the manual and everything checked out.
    The curve of the doors match the bulkhead and tub pretty well. Could adjust tilt on passenger side a little to gain some height at tub. I am going to run a string down the top of the curve from bulkhead to back of tub. I may have a little dip in this line. If not I'm at a loss on how to get the top on and keep things lined up.

  7. #7
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    I ran a string line down the curve and definitly have a sag where the door and tub meet. Door seam is slightly off the same direction. Any tricks in raising the tub? Do I need to loosen all the floor panels seat base ect?

  8. #8
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    I think I have everything lines up as good as possible. I needed to raise the passenger side front of the tub about 3/8". When I was done the passenger side outside mounting tab holes were at the same elevation leading me to believe this was the problem. The drivers side was fine.
    I'v attached a picture, I think, of my SIII where it was about a week ago. Getting there!
    Last edited by siii8873; 09-19-2010 at 03:56 PM.

  9. #9
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    Apr 2007
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    so. newhampshire
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    with a new frame the tub should get bolted to the tabs this is the starting point there is no adjustment to the tub... than loosly hang the bulkhed to get your proper door alignment then tighten, if the right door still hangs high i suspect that the rebuilt bulkhed that you bought has had the right lower mount incorrectly welded on, this is common if if the old mount was removed from the bulkhed and was not jigged properly prior to welding the replacement mount in.....

  10. #10
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    Oct 2006
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rovertek
    with a new frame the tub should get bolted to the tabs this is the starting point there is no adjustment to the tub... than loosly hang the bulkhed to get your proper door alignment then tighten, if the right door still hangs high i suspect that the rebuilt bulkhed that you bought has had the right lower mount incorrectly welded on, this is common if if the old mount was removed from the bulkhed and was not jigged properly prior to welding the replacement mount in.....
    This is a good point.

    The Solihull boys also shimmed the bulkhead behind the left and right frame support mounts. You may have to add or take away shims to adjust the angle of the doors.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

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