Thanks. I have seen that on Terriann's site as well. I'll give it a go first...bust a couple of knuckles...and then probably order the dang thing for $80.
I bought a one-wire alternator, so all my wiring (other than getting voltage to the systems) is running a big a$$ wire from the alternator to the battery.
--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.
Slowmo,
Yep, your on the right path, Just skip to the Pangolin bracket, put that big ass wire in the right place and motor on!
Cheers,
Rob
Bugeye88
Rob,
You were right about the Pangolin bracket.
Note to others doing this conversion: Get a one wire Delco/GM alternator in case style 10si with plenty of amps of capacity. These are plentiful. Then get the Pangolin bracket (a little expensive for what it is but a big time saver). Put on at least a 10ga wire (or 8ga) but not less, straight to the battery. The shortest routing is the best.
--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.
Does the GEN to ALT conversion require an earth swap as well? Currently running SIIa w/ generator on positive earth. Generator was rebuilt and battery replaced. Starting amps have never been reliable. Vehicle requires trickle charging, and I have to carry the hand crank, jumper cables and a lil' lighting jump starter everywhere.
Last edited by RoverForm; 02-16-2016 at 04:35 PM.
One wire systems are self earthing through the alt housing. But, if you're having that much trouble with starter electrics, be sure to check and clean all the earths, and add one directly to the starter mounting bolt if needed. And check the battery capacity, you may have weak cells. I run a 100amp one wire myself, with a home-made bracket. (I also have this set-up on my 3500S)
'99 Disco II
'95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S
I have a 100amp alternator as well. It is a GM (Delco) 10si case style. There is a separate ground terminal on mine which I connected to the block, though it is supposedly case grounded.
Once you install the alternator and run a heavy gauge wire to the new battery, you might what to check if you have some kind of short which is draining your battery. If you have a multimeter, set it up to measure current. Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and put the multimeter in series. See if an current is flowing with the ignition off. If so you have a short somewhere and will have to track it down.
--David
1959 TR3
1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")
My hovercraft is full of eels.
Thanks all. I got the Delco Alternator, but before GEN/ALT swap, a POS to NEG earth conversion is recommended.
I've read all the info on TerriAnns's site and spoke to her briefly via email. Have watched numerous videos on the swap, have printed the POS and NEG wiring diagrams for the IIa. I understand I need to swap the wires on:
ammeter
ignition coil
interior LEDs
and fuel pump (if solid state)?
Is my fuel pump solid state? How do I know? If it's not, do I have to replace the fuel pump with a solid state pump? This was not described on TerriAnn's site.
This is the pump I have:
Last edited by RoverForm; 02-27-2016 at 12:23 PM.
Keep it simple: https://www.roversnorth.com/info/40
That fuel pump is mechanical (vs electric) and doesn't know the difference between pos and neg earthed engines. It will keep pumping as long as the engine is working. Don't concern yourself with it while you're switching over to negative earth.
1968 Series IIa
1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)