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Thread: Rear main seal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    DALLAS
    Posts
    90

    Default Rear main seal

    I'm a little discouraged today. I got a quote for replacing the rear main on my new 79 series 3 ,88 inch . It was over 2k by someone who is familiar with series. Is this normal maybe not sure need advice , Gareth,Dallas. Thank you

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    23

    Default

    If the Series 3 is new to you and you don't know how much it's been driven of late prior to your acquisition, you might try some seal softener first. If it's just a little hard from sitting and dripping a bit, some seal softener might just take care of your problem. There are clearly different opinions about these products but I've used them in a 1960 and a 1965 Cadillac (both of which had been sitting for a good while) and seen substantial improvement. I've also heard that synthetic oils have a better performance in weak seals than traditional oils but I have no personal experience with that as both cases I'm referring to were quite a while ago. You need to drive your car several hundred miles before the seal softener can have an effect... Bottom line - $10 worth of seal softener or $50 worth of a synthetic oil change might be worth a try. Hope that helps some.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    DALLAS
    Posts
    90

    Default

    Thank you. I was being used on a ranch but at very low speeds, I've been on the road with it around 40mph it's leaking pretty bad ,I'll try the sealer

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    I'll be interested to hear how the softener works.

    Other thing to consider: Crank case pressure. Sometimes people will mess with the emissions equipment - remove it. Done carelessly, it leaves the crank case with no way to vent or neutralize pressure. Do you have a connected PCV valve?

    Other sources of pressure include worn rings, allowing blow-by - what's your compression for each cylinder?
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    DALLAS
    Posts
    90

    Default

    It's venting good ill check compression tomorrow thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    The engine must come out. This is a pretty big deal.

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The South
    Posts
    127

    Default

    If this is your first Series truck, your idea of a major leak might be grossly different than someone who has owned one for a while.

    Just about all of them leak.

    How much oil are you losing? Why don't you post a picture of the driveway after you have driven the truck and parked it for several hours.
    1969 IIA - Tan
    1969 IIA - Blue

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    DALLAS
    Posts
    90

    Default

    I will get a pic I park off the drive on gravel on purpose the oil spot is about the size of the center circle on the steering wheel

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Zimbos - curious to see where this ended up. What seal softener did you use? I've seen Bar's rear main seal additive which seems to be based on petroleum distillates and seems to work by softening the seal. I've also seen AT-205, which is more of a plasticizer and seems to work by restoring the flexibility to the seal. Neither will work for a damaged deal - they do not plug holes, rather they change the characteristics of the seal.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    People's Republick of Cambridge & Malpais CR
    Posts
    175

    Default

    $2K is about right, to remove engine and do per O2Batsea posted factory instructions.

    Other option is do go the route I did and pay two different shops $900 and $500 respectively; they both said they could replace seal "no problemo amigo" without removing engine from the truck. Then ultimately I paid $1,800 to have it done right in the US by removing engine from the truck.
    The Toltec Coffee fleet....
    96 FZJ80: 3XL, lifted, and shaved
    94 FZJ 80: our Costa Rican coffee and surf mobile
    70 Series IIA 88: After 18 months of wrenching, its alive and legal to drive!
    70 Series IIA 88: in US on H-1B visa
    56 Series I 86: a whole new type of rover hell....

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