Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: series 3 engine reseal ?

  1. #1

    Unhappy series 3 engine reseal ?

    hi gang!
    I have a 1982 series 3 in the fleet and she needs some help with oil leaks.
    The local shop I have used in the past gave me a quote of 33 hours to:

    "vehicle leaks from rear main seal, oil pan and transfer case plate. Labour to drain related fluids, remove engine from vehicle, degrease and strip down timing chain cover and sump, then replacing both main seals, as if one seal is leaking, the second is likely to fail shortly. Clean all gasket mating surfaces, and re-seal all parts removed with new gaskets. return engine to vehicle, fit new engine mounts if needed. Connect up all ancillary connections, refill all removed fluids and run engine. Check for leaks."

    this amount of hours seems a little high to me! The truck was totally restored about 5 years ago and is very very clean. Rust will not be an issue at all and she should come apart with ease.

    I was thinking more like 15-20 hours for this job?

    Any input on this is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    33 hours may be a bit on the high side however it sounds like they would be working on not one, but two separate issues...front/rear main seals and a leaking transfer case...is that correct? Is your local guy a LR shop?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    For the work they are doing that actually seems reasonable to me. Pulling the engine, removing the covers and re-gasketing. It's one guy basically four days. Sounds about right.

    I would certainly install new engine mounts while they are at it. Other costs they did not quote: I bet all the hoses will need replacing, fuel line, they'll find the water pump to be corroded, etc. I would consider a new clutch and pressure plate while it is out as well. You might as well hit all the things you can instead of having to go back later.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  4. #4

    Default

    wow bummer...

    the local shop is a european restoration shop. they do amazing work.

    thank you for the input!! I appreciate it!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    I don't think that number is too far out of line for a shop.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    150

    Default

    Darn good time to learn to pull an engine yourself. That's what I would do, and I've never done it. Their labor rate is probably around $125/hour. That's $4,125 just for labor.


    Colin

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SafeAirOne View Post
    I don't think that number is too far out of line for a shop.
    Agreed.

    Slomo's advice on stuff to hit while the patient is open... I'd strongly consider it.

    My RMS is starting to leak as well. Will do this one myself but will put it off as long as I can.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    The South
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Maybe I'm alone here, but I'd let the thing leak until you had some other mechanical issue that forced you to start taking things out.

    Unless of course it's puking more oil than you can keep up with.
    1969 IIA - Tan
    1969 IIA - Blue

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Contractor View Post
    Maybe I'm alone here, but I'd let the thing leak until you had some other mechanical issue that forced you to start taking things out.

    Unless of course it's puking more oil than you can keep up with.
    That's the approach I'm taking with mine. I'm getting 3-5 drips every few days. My solution - a folded shop paper towel between the cross member and the bell housing - where the drips run to. It's basically like depends for a Land Rover. The shop towel can last 5-6 months before I need to even thing about swapping in a clean one. Problem solved.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    I couldn't agree more with all of the posts. All Series Rovers leak. They like to mark their territory. Only do this work if it is Exxon Valdez leaking.

    Then you might consider doing the work yourself. I can't imagine how much I would have spent on my Rover if I utilized a shop. Right now I'm in the middle of a valve job. I've rebuilt the tranny, brakes, suspension, etc. So far I haven't had the engine out of the Rover yet, but I've done several sports cars. I would estimate I would have spent upwards of $15k if I had a shop do the work, and that is likely where you are heading with this truck if you have them do all the work all the time.

    If you don't have much experience, buy a simple tool set, get a Haynes manual (which I think is easier to understand than the "Green Bible" for most people) and start small. You'll find it is really quite easy.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us