My 73 Series 3 Project

[ninescorpions]

Great work so far! Truck looks fantastic and the patina/paint are perfect.

Have you purchased the Green Bible? Also a parts catalog? Both are good to have on hand if you like to do your own work (which it looks like you do). Links to electronic versions: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrove...rover-manuals/

I have purchased the owners workshop manual (is this considered the green bible?). I also got the Restoration manual from Haynes.

[ninescorpions]

The Hazard, Oil Pressure Gauge and Heater wiring schemas are not in the standard manuals as they are US spec/specific items. I think I've stumbled across wiring schemas for these but one way to get them is to find a copy of a US Spec Series 3 Owners Manual - the smaller book that originally came with your truck. There was usually a US supplement that had wiring schemas specific to this market. Someone here may have one and can take a picture of the pages you need. There is a topic on this here and here. Also - see image below. Was able to dig this up and think it solves your problem.
Attachment 12142

About to read into those other threads. I see in that schematic that the flasher relay has four connections. My flasher relay (and the replacement I bought) only have two connections. Is there a different relay with 4? There are two relays behind my dash...I assumed one was turn signals and the other was hazards. Or am I wrong? Here is what I recently installed, although as stated before my turn signals are very slow. I think something is still a miss with my hazard wiring: http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLF352

[ninescorpions]

For the signal indicators, sounds like you may need a new flasher unit. It should be part number 502096 and Can be found here (it looks like our forum hosts do not carry). But double check here as I'm not entirely familiar with how the series 3 turn signal works.

I had to call to find the flasher...did not find it on a search at Rovers North. The one I installed was http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLF352. I installed it to one relay first, but this caused my hazards to start working (but very dim). Then I assumed that the other relay was actually for the turn signals. I swapped that one out and now my turn signals work. I am pretty sure that other relay needs to be replaced...I need to call to see what it is. The two relays are dimensionally different...so am sure they are not the same. I have to open the dash again this week...and I will get some pictures. I was never able to get any voltage on them, but I was limited to testing because the truck was on blocks and did not have it in a mode to run. Now that it touches the ground again, I can let it idle while I trouble shoot the relay voltages as I use the hazards and turn signals.

[ninescorpions]

Regarding pumping the brakes - you should not have to do that. Generally it means you have a leak in the system or have air trapped in the brake circuit. Bleed your brakes using the process described in the workshop manual to get the air bubbles out. It takes a few people (one to pump the brake and the other to open/close the bleeder valve). There are other ways to do this solo if you search - but my guess is air trapped in the system still.

I will get to re-bleeding the brakes. It was done by the shop, but cannot hurt to do it again.

[ninescorpions]

With a Series 3 you should not need to double clutch. It's a fully synched gearbox. BUT, given that the truck sat for so long, it will take time for the gears to work back in and for the new oil fill to work around. Hopefully you drained and then filled the gearbox with new EP90 (see below). The best cure here is driving it. Double clutching won't hurt, while the gears wear back in.

Roger that...I will confirm with the shop that the transmission oil was drained and filled. I assume so, but you never know

[ninescorpions]

Your side/front turn signals are missing. I think replacements can be found...

I see them in drawings and even on Rovers North website drawings, but it is never called out as an actual lighting component to buy. Would like to get them...the wires are there under the fender...someone just decided to cut them (for the life of me I have no idea why).

[ninescorpions]

- Right front wheel - friction could be the brake shoe. Have you tried backing off the brake adjuster bolt for that wheel? Friction causes heat - after driving feel around the tire bolts. Hot? Brake adjuster too tight. Feel the hub. Hot? Time to service the hub. Jacking up the one tire and spinning it can usually give you an audible clue as well.

I first noticed this when replacing the brake drum. I am pretty sure (not 100%) that I sensed the friction even with the drum off. I had adjusted the new brake shoes all the way in (only slight friction at point of the 360 rotation...clear audible indicator). Now I have driven it for about 15 miles...I will jack it up and do a spin test again. If I am still getting friction, I will do a decent drive and then test heat levels as you have suggested to try and pin point.

[ninescorpions]

- That pie plate/hood spare mount. I'd drill out the 10 rivets and get a replacement. They can be found. Easy to pop-rivet back in a new one. You may be able to salvage it once it's out and more accessible. Either way, a Rover isn't a Rover without a tire on the hood :-)

100% agree! My dad does not agree with putting the spare on the hood since it limits visibility. But I told him the same thing you said. It is a key trademark for this vehicle. I will start looking for a pie plate...however in the short term I have worked up my own homemade solution to solve it. The small rubber bumpers are simply too low to work for a larger tire (and keep the tire from touching the hood). So I bought some larger rubber stoppers and drilled through them. I fabricated a mounting bracket. Do you know if the original spares were mounted with the face or the inside of the rim on top? I opt'ed to put the the face of the rim on the bottom because it means I can bracket it much closer to the hood (ie shorter bolts). I will post some pics of my install once completely done (in process now).

[ninescorpions]

These trucks like to be driven - she'll wear back in with some good driving. Welcome to the club!

P.S. Beautiful garage/barn you lucky dog.

Thanks a lot brother...and thanks for taking the time with your details response and tips. It is greatly appreciated! I am using my Grandpa's garage (which is big enough to put two full size dump trucks in). The Rover was also his before he passed. I find it a great honor to work on his old Rover in his garage. I got a feeling he might be looking over my shoulder from time to time My whole goal was to get the Rover running so I can take my Grandma out on a drive. And it looks like we will be doing that this coming Christmas week.

[lumpydog]

I have purchased the owners workshop manual (is this considered the green bible?). I also got the Restoration manual from Haynes.

That's the one! Great resource and spells out how to get most jobs completed.

About to read into those other threads. I see in that schematic that the flasher relay has four connections. My flasher relay (and the replacement I bought) only have two connections. Is there a different relay with 4? There are two relays behind my dash...I assumed one was turn signals and the other was hazards. Or am I wrong? Here is what I recently installed, although as stated before my turn signals are very slow. I think something is still a miss with my hazard wiring: http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLF352

The schematic I posted admittedly may be inaccurate. I'll edit my post to qualify that I pulled it from an international site that may use a different flasher setup. I think your best bet is to post a separate thread here asking if someone else can post or explain the wiring for a NADA Series 3 hazard setup. I have a Series 2a, so this one was a harder for me to help you with. I'd agree that your wiring is probably off. Also - that flasher unit you linked to has only two terminals - vs three. Confirm with other Series 3 owners that the flasher unit is correct (it may very well be! But, double check).

I will get to re-bleeding the brakes. It was done by the shop, but cannot hurt to do it again.

With regard to re-bleading - the Green Bible is pretty good idea to review here. You need a clear tube that fits very snugly over the bleeder valve. Run it to a jelly jar with brake fluid already in it so the end is submerged. Open the valve and have someone pump the brake to the bottom of the brake's reach and then tighten the valve before the assistant releases the brake, Then have the person pump again while you open the valve and then tighten the valve while your assistant holds at the bottom stroke. Do this until no bubbles come out. Start from the furthest tire from the reservoir and work to the closest. You will need to stop and refill the reservoir with fresh fluid so you don't reintroduce air into the system if it emptys. The bleeder valves can sometimes re-introduce air into the the outflow tube as brake fluid exits and make it look like there is air still in the system - those will be tiny bubbles vs the bigger ones that will come out when you bleed air out of the actual system. One way to stop this is to pull the bleeder valve out and wrap the threads 4-5 wraps with plumber's white thread tape (don't cover the valve hole!). I did this to mine and now only air from the system is expelled, making it dead simple to see when they are bled properly. Final note (important!) - make sure your repair shop used DOT4 GLMA. Pick some up for yourself as well. I like 12oz bottles because brake fluid has a shelf life once opened and you don't end up wasting too much of what is not used. When your done, the brakes should be hard/firm and stay hard/firm when left for 30 minutes. They should not get more hard/firm when you pump them in use. There are other ways to bleed brakes without an assistant - but this is the basic method. Be warned - brake fluid eats paint - quickly. Don't let it get on that paint/patina!

Roger that...I will confirm with the shop that the transmission oil was drained and filled. I assume so, but you never know

Also - make sure they used EP90 Gear oil. Rover is specific about the type here because of the types of metals (brass/bronze/"yellow metals") used in the gearbox. Use the link I sent you to get some that you can use to top off - it's used in the Gearbox, Transfer Case, Steering Relay, Steering Box, Both Diffs and the Swivel Balls (and overdrive if you have one) - so you will use this stuff a lot! Also - get a pump.

I see them in drawings and even on Rovers North website drawings, but it is never called out as an actual lighting component to buy. Would like to get them...the wires are there under the fender...someone just decided to cut them (for the life of me I have no idea why).

Try calling Ike at Pangolin4x4 (google it) - he should be able to source a set for you. This page has links to an electronic version of the parts manual (and service manual) so you can easily get part numbers. Unfortunately - the side marker lights that are missing are a NADA (North American Dollar Area) only part and are not listed. They look like this:

I first noticed this when replacing the brake drum. I am pretty sure (not 100%) that I sensed the friction even with the drum off. I had adjusted the new brake shoes all the way in (only slight friction at point of the 360 rotation...clear audible indicator). Now I have driven it for about 15 miles...I will jack it up and do a spin test again. If I am still getting friction, I will do a decent drive and then test heat levels as you have suggested to try and pin point.

It can take time for new brake shoes to wear in and it is not uncommon at all to hear them scuff a little when new. As you said drive and check. It should subside over time. The workshop manual does a good job of describing brake shoe adjustment.

100% agree! My dad does not agree with putting the spare on the hood since it limits visibility. But I told him the same thing you said. It is a key trademark for this vehicle. I will start looking for a pie plate...however in the short term I have worked up my own homemade solution to solve it. The small rubber bumpers are simply too low to work for a larger tire (and keep the tire from touching the hood). So I bought some larger rubber stoppers and drilled through them. I fabricated a mounting bracket. Do you know if the original spares were mounted with the face or the inside of the rim on top? I opt'ed to put the the face of the rim on the bottom because it means I can bracket it much closer to the hood (ie shorter bolts). I will post some pics of my install once completely done (in process now).

Screw your pop. Tire goes on the hood - this is the law really. Tire should be valve-side (face) down. When you call Ike about the marker lights, ask him if he has a spare pie plate - offer to swap yours for it. I'm betting he could also likely salvage your and get the old bolt out and/or re-tap the threads.

Thanks a lot brother...and thanks for taking the time with your details response and tips. It is greatly appreciated! I am using my Grandpa's garage (which is big enough to put two full size dump trucks in). The Rover was also his before he passed. I find it a great honor to work on his old Rover in his garage. I got a feeling he might be looking over my shoulder from time to time My whole goal was to get the Rover running so I can take my Grandma out on a drive. And it looks like we will be doing that this coming Christmas week.

Happy to help - others here are too. Try to do as much work as you can yourself - especially with a garage like your granfather's available. Nothing against service stations/garages, but they generally don't understand the nuances of these old rigs unless they specialize in old British-built cars. Based on the fact they could not bleed your brakes properly, I'm guessing they are not entirely familiar with older vehicles like yours. Research projects before you jump in. Ask questions on forums like this. Try to get the parts you need on hand before you start. It's pretty easy/fun/satisfying doing the work yourself and you will be secure in the knowledge that the job was done right!

Also - that truck is in beautiful shape for its age. It's rare to find one with really nice patina like that - the original faded paint. Purists will tell you to keep it as is (I agree). Good on ya for keeping the original 15s. I'm also of the "keep it original" philosophy. It's something that is very hard to accomplish unless you find a truck like yours that sat for years - or was with the same owner for a long time - or both. That's a great/original example you have there - primarily due to the fact that it was parked for half its life.