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Thread: clutch / gear grinding / ugly sounds

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    86

    Default

    Ok, I'm in the midst of this now.

    The clevis pin further away from the bell housing (close to slave) was indeed sheared off, though still in place, so has been replaced.

    As for the rest of the job, I'll be replacing the slave and master clutch cylinders so have the floor out and the wing off now. In trying to get the master clutch cylinder loose from the hard line, it has twisted the hard line a bit, but not broken it or pierced it so far as I can tell...the 2 nuts there are pretty well fused together, so when trying to get the hard line off the whole line twisted, even while trying to hold the small nut in place while turning the larger one. So I'm waiting while the PB Blaster tries to do its thing before I break the hard line. If that happens, our hosts seem to have one, fortunately.

    In the meantime it's on to the slave for now...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andrew View Post
    Ok, I'm in the midst of this now.

    The clevis pin further away from the bell housing (close to slave) was indeed sheared off, though still in place, so has been replaced.

    As for the rest of the job, I'll be replacing the slave and master clutch cylinders so have the floor out and the wing off now. In trying to get the master clutch cylinder loose from the hard line, it has twisted the hard line a bit, but not broken it or pierced it so far as I can tell...the 2 nuts there are pretty well fused together, so when trying to get the hard line off the whole line twisted, even while trying to hold the small nut in place while turning the larger one. So I'm waiting while the PB Blaster tries to do its thing before I break the hard line. If that happens, our hosts seem to have one, fortunately.

    In the meantime it's on to the slave for now...
    Good sleuthing. You've sorted out the core problem - those clevis pins are good at concealing failure. Nice work getting them to fess up. And good that you are taming the rest of the system... I like to do do the same - if the patient is open, fix all of it. My brake line is similarly fused to the master cylinder... I'm not looking forward to having to talk them into separating!
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    86

    Default

    I now have a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and one replaced clevis pin. I bled the system (if anyone out there does not yet have a power bleeder, I highly recommend it...my wife recommends it too, since she's not harassed periodically to come pump brakes/clutch).

    After all of this at first the clutch was a bit out of adjustment; when in gear the gears would engage when the clutch was about an inch off the floor. I initially used the same settings on the master cylinder rod and slave cylinder rod as before. To adjust the slave cylinder I needed to make the rod's throw longer, such that it would push further when the clutch was engaged, thereby moving the tube/linkage more. In my case there was a half-inch or so mounting plate that sat on top of the slave cylinder mounting bracket and mounted between the slave cylinder and the mounting bracket. I removed that, thereby making the slave cylinder rod push further, in turn moving the giving the tube/linkage more travel. This solved the engagement issue, such that now when in gear the gears engage when the clutch is maybe 3 inches off the floor, or about what it was before all the drama began.

    Now I'll be sure there are no leaks from the master cylinder for a day or two, and then comes the process of reassembly of the whole front side and floors.

    Thanks to everyone for the continued help (with a special acknowledgment of lumpydog's patience and advice)!
    Last edited by andrew; 04-02-2017 at 04:42 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew View Post
    I now have a new master cylinder, slave cylinder, and one replaced clevis pin. I bled the system (if anyone out there does not yet have a power bleeder, I highly recommend it...my wife recommends it too, since she's not harassed periodically to come pump brakes/clutch).

    After all of this at first the clutch was a bit out of adjustment; when in gear the gears would engage when the clutch was about an inch off the floor. I initially used the same settings on the master cylinder rod and slave cylinder rod as before. To adjust the slave cylinder I needed to make the rod's throw longer, such that it would push further when the clutch was engaged, thereby moving the tube/linkage more. In my case there was a half-inch or so mounting plate that sat on top of the slave cylinder mounting bracket and mounted between the slave cylinder and the mounting bracket. I removed that, thereby making the slave cylinder rod push further, in turn moving the giving the tube/linkage more travel. This solved the engagement issue, such that now when in gear the gears engage when the clutch is maybe 3 inches off the floor, or about what it was before all the drama began.

    Now I'll be sure there are no leaks from the master cylinder for a day or two, and then comes the process of reassembly of the whole front side and floors.

    Thanks to everyone for the continued help (with a special acknowledgment of lumpydog's patience and advice)!
    Virtual fist bump Andrew - GFJ! I have kids, so I'm usually in good shape when it comes time to bleed clutch or brakes. Out of curiosity, what power bleeder do you use?
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    86

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lumpydog View Post
    Virtual fist bump Andrew - GFJ! I have kids, so I'm usually in good shape when it comes time to bleed clutch or brakes. Out of curiosity, what power bleeder do you use?
    The one by Motive Products, $80 from our hosts. Works well.

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