Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Hand Brake Failure - what should I be looking for?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    76

    Default Hand Brake Failure - what should I be looking for?

    Oh wise ones! I need help identifying a component failure...

    I have a 1974 Series III that partially rolled on me this past December. A lot of other things going on between now and then, so I'm only just getting a chance to tackle the underlying issue and I need some guidance about what to focus on replacing.

    As background, I had parked my SWB at the top of a hill to open a locked gate and then cut several errant branches that were encroaching on the dirt road leading down the hill. I left the vehicle running but had set the parking brake; it was parked on a very slight decline and there was no indication of movement when I got out of the vehicle. I was only out of the vehicle approximately 3 minutes...long enough to open the gate and descend approximately 60 feet to cut several stray branches...I heard a noise as I was throwing the last branch off-trail and saw the vehicle rolling at me doing around 15-20 mph. I managed to get out of the way, but the truck ran about another 100 feet farther down the trail before catching a rut, bouncing off its right side (it actually bounced back upright), and then hitting an earthen embankment on the opposite side of the trail that finally stopped it. To its credit, the engine never stopped running, and was driveable although it had significant body damage to the right side body panels and front bumper. A "sh*t you" moment, if you will, when you briefly think about trying to jump in the truck and then realize the idiocy of the notion.

    Clearly, the hand brake did not hold the vehicle. I have kept it parked in gear and with wheel chocks since the accident, but I need to make sure this doesn't happen again. To that end, what components in the transmission brake would be the likely culprits?

    I'd like to do a focused parts replacement versus a blind wholesale replacement of components if possible.


    And am I off my rocker to believe that a transmission brake, in good order, should be able to hold one of these vehicles stationary even on a slope?

    Any input is appreciated.

    Cheers.

    Corey
    ~ Corey

    1974 Series III RHD SWB
    2003 Freelander

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    It might just need to be adjusted. Look on the back side for the square adjuster.

    If not it is basically a drum brake with shoes. Not complicated at all.
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    76

    Default

    David,

    Thank you for the response. I have records from the previous owner that indicate he had the transmission brake replaced, so hopefully that is all it needs. I did not realize it had an adjustment.
    ~ Corey

    1974 Series III RHD SWB
    2003 Freelander

  4. #4

    Default

    Make sure the adjuster and expander are working properly - make sure the linings are in good shape (not soaked in oil) - if they are oily replace output seal and check the output flange for scoring. Make sure the ratchet pawl is sharp and engaging the teeth in the ratchet and the the spring is strong that forces the pawl into the ratchet teeth. Make sure the bellcrank pivot is well lubed and that all the clevis pins are securely seated

    -Ike

    Quote Originally Posted by CRiordan01 View Post
    David,

    Thank you for the response. I have records from the previous owner that indicate he had the transmission brake replaced, so hopefully that is all it needs. I did not realize it had an adjustment.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    You can adjust from two places. One is a sort of gross adjustment. The other is more of a fine adjustment.

    The gross adjustment is made using the nuts on the rod pictured here - item 29. That will adjust the point at which the handbrake engages the transmission brake.

    The fine adjustment is described by Slo - it's a square adjuster on the driver side (front facing) of the transmission brake drum. Clockwise will fine adjust the brake pad's at-rest proximity to the drum. I believe the workshop manual describes (with the hand brake released/off) tightening the adjuster all the way and then backing it off "two clicks" as there is a spring designed to make a click noise. You can feel the clicks too as the adjuster gets easy and then gives resistance.

    Bottom line - if the rod is too loose, even with the hand brake all the way on, the brake may not engage. Make sure the rod allows the transmission brake to firmly engage and the brake handle does not reach the top of its travel limit before it can engage the brake - then make sure the fine tune is set per the manual.

    Take it for a test drive. Get out and feel the drum. Is it hot? Fine adjust is too tight. Back it off a click and test again. You should be able to pull the transmission brake lever up 3/4 of the way and have a firmly engaged brake.

    If I were you, I'd go one step further and pull the drum off to make sure there is no oil contamination in the drum or on the shoes. Very easy to check for.

    [Edit - cross responded with Ike - sorry for some of the repeated advice]
    Last edited by lumpydog; 05-11-2017 at 03:55 PM.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Thanks for the additional responses! Lumpydog in your post you referenced a picture but I did not see one with your post...am I missing the pic or did you forget to include the pic / link?

    Bodywork is being corrected now, so when I get it back, I will start working on getting this all sorted out.
    ~ Corey

    1974 Series III RHD SWB
    2003 Freelander

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Richmond, Virginia
    Posts
    76

    Default

    Lumpydog - disregard my comment. I just saw the link.
    ~ Corey

    1974 Series III RHD SWB
    2003 Freelander

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CRiordan01 View Post
    Thanks for the additional responses! Lumpydog in your post you referenced a picture but I did not see one with your post...am I missing the pic or did you forget to include the pic / link?

    Bodywork is being corrected now, so when I get it back, I will start working on getting this all sorted out.
    Added link. I'm over my attachment quota on this forum. No idea how to resolve that so I needed to go load the picture elsewhere
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us