Usable fuel tank capacity in '68 IIa 88"

[gaxdad]

I am getting about 6 gallons from the fuel tank in my '68 IIa 88". I believe the capacity is supposed to be 10 gallons.

Is this typical?

I'm not having any issues with the tank. No leaks or other problems.

Thanks - Wes


BTW - Great forum. I'm new here. Rovers North is now on the list of packages I need to grab before my wife sees them. Newbie questions to follow (but only after a careful review of prior posts). Here is a picture of my truck (assuming I can master the process of posting a picture....) - That should cover all the typical newbie statements.

[lumpydog]

Welcome to the forum!

Are you basing this off of your fuel gauge? In other words, it goes to empty and when you fill it up, it takes only 6 gallons? Short wheelbase (88) capacity is typically 12 Gallons.

Also - I have a 68 as well if you need to compare notes on anything, our trucks should be identical. My Chassis number 24434013D.

[gaxdad]

Thanks. I ran the truck down to E on the gauge this weekend and it was sputtering a bit when I finally pulled into a gas station. Filled it up and 6 gallons is all it took. Perhaps I'll put a gas can in the truck and run it until it truly runs out to be sure.

I'll definitely take you up on any G2 you have on your 68. Beautiful truck - a bit cleaner and shinier than mine.

What kind of Overdrive do you have installed? Mine has a Roverdrive from Global Roamer. Probably needs a bit of TLC - it works but the whine is louder than I assume is healthy.

Wes

[lumpydog]

Wes

That fuel mystery is best solved by taking the top-of-seat-box plate off (under the passenger seat - 6 screws) and pulling the fuel sender (round - 6 screws) to see how much fuel is really there. While you have it out, you can inspect the fuel sender to see if it looks to be ok. Is your tank reading full and then running all the way through to empty as you use the 6 gallons? Another related question. Is your engine temp needle (when fully warmed up and driving) in the middle of the range - on "N"?

I have a Fairey overdive. Was installed about 13K miles ago. Really nice to have it. The Roverdrives are great/newer. My experience with the Fairey is that it whines. Haven't been in a truck with the Roverdrive but the same probably applies. Make sure the oil level is ok. If you haven't done so - never hurts to drain and fill with new oil, so you know when it was last changed. I believe Fairey recommends every 6K miles - not sure about Roverdrive.

Charlie

P.S. Feel free to reach out directly "pendletons at gmail dot com". Would love to see pics of your interior and engine as a point of comparison!

[TedW]

Just a thought: Check your draw tube to confirm that it is reaching the bottom of the tank.

It's interesting to read that your gauge reads empty when the truck starts to sputter: Perhaps that the draw tube is bent upwards for some reason and the sender is catching on it.

Either that or you have some very clever (and evil) friends who managed to put some bricks on your tank as a cruel practical joke. :P

[gaxdad]

Luckily my clever and evil friends haven't turned their sights toward my LR yet.

I'll check the fuel sender and inspect the tank this week.

Thanks

Wes

[gaxdad]

I'll send over some pics so we can compare.

Good idea on the Roverdrive oil level and an oil change. Can't hurt.

RE: Temp Gauge - that is the only gauge not working properly. I have a replacement Smiths gauge on the way.

Thanks

Wes

[lumpydog]

RE: Temp Gauge - that is the only gauge not working properly. I have a replacement Smiths gauge on the way.

Thanks

Wes

Ok - I asked because the Temp Gauge and Fuel Gauge are fed power a little differently (along with the oil pressure gauge if you have an original). They all require a 10v power supply to read correctly - so there is a "Voltage Stabilizer" in the mix, that converts the system's 12v down to 10v. If that fails or is failing (outputting incorrect voltage), you will get bad readings in the Fuel and Temp gauges - which expect 10v. Any different and they are no longer accurate.

The voltage stabilizer looks like this. Our host does not sell/stock them so I hope it's ok to link here.

The way the Voltage Stabilizer works - it rapidly cuts in/out the 12v power source - effectively 'down averaging' it to 10v. You can check your voltage stabilizer with an analog multi-meter - but a digital multi-meter will not be able to reconcile the rapid cut in/out of the Voltage Stabilizer. The analog multi-meter will show an average of 10v if the Voltage Stabilizer is functional.

I really like Moss Motor's replica/solid state voltage stabilizer. It electronically converts the 12v input to a solid 10v output that can be tested with a digital or analog multi-meter.

Good article here on testing the stabilizer, as you rule out potential problems.

Looking forward to seeing pics. I have some other cool thing to share via email.

Charlie

[cedryck]

Thanks for the Link to Moss, cool to see improvements on old items.

[gaxdad]

Looks like your insight on the voltage stabilizer was accurate. I found it in a different place than the service manual diagram indicated. Disconnected.



I'll have to hook it up and test it. I have a suspicion that it may not work and thus was bypassed.

Thanks for the insight and advice.

Wes