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Thread: Replace clutch master and slave on '74 Series III

  1. #1

    Default Replace clutch master and slave on '74 Series III

    I just enjoyed some quality time with my Series III in replacing both slave and clutch cylinders. I had forgot how much fun it was removing the wing,getting dirt in my eyes,brake fluid in my arm pit, machine new bushing for all pivot points in clutch pedal, tap out all threads and replace with stainless bolts and all of this with only two chips out of paint on wing......It feels so positive now without all of the lost motion of worn parts and pedal leak down within the master cylinder. New original parts from our host.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    327

    Default

    Sounds good but remember that stainless hardware is softer than regular steel fasteners and also that they cause corrosion of less noble parts (i.e. the steel bits) even faster.
    Photographer / writer for LRM (until they screwed me).
    1995 110 Regular
    300Tdi, Series and Defender repairs in CT

  3. #3

    Default

    I used liberal amount of anti seize so hopefully it will last a long time. Really the ones that hold the clutch box from the floor up would be the problem ones if it happens.....Thanks for tip.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    327

    Default

    When I rebuilt mine (‘71 II-A) I bought boxes of new hardware. Fine thread bolts, those odd washers (type B or something) and unlock nuts instead of lockeashets and plain nuts. Grade 5 zinc plated. They held up well and as an added bonus, the truck didn’t unbolt itself on the washboard roads in Africa! There were a few problems with that on the other trucks.
    Photographer / writer for LRM (until they screwed me).
    1995 110 Regular
    300Tdi, Series and Defender repairs in CT

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