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Thread: Series 3 crossmember question.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Eastern, PA
    Posts
    54

    Default Series 3 crossmember question.

    Previous owner of my Series 3 hit something hard and bent the cross member under the flywheel housing and now the housing is in direct contac with the cross member, see picture.

    Truck vibrates and resonates badly when running more than other Series 3 trucks I’ve owned or driven.

    I’m thinking this contact might be contributing to the vibration?

    Anyone ever replace this cross member?

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    Thanks, Tom

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    17

    Default

    As the engine/gearbox is rubber mounted to isolate vibration, the solid contact between the engine and frame will be causing vibes to transfer.

    Replacing/repairing the crossmember to remove the contact will resolve the vibration from that source.

    Replacement is simple, cut out weld in (with sound welds like any structural repairs) although I haven't looked to see how readily available that crossmember may be. Repairing your existing one, or fabbing a new one may be required.

  3. #3

    Default

    A frame repair shop may be able to repair that much easier than it can be replaced. They could just pull it away from the engine far enough to not make contact, or make a full cosmetic repair.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    836

    Default

    A good frame shop would secure the vehicle to a table area, apply enough force on the crossmember to bring it close to original placement. Dizzy guy is accurate, it might be cheaper and shorter time to do that then cut out and replace, welding involved. cheers.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    977

    Default

    Everyone of these things seems to be bashed! I wonder what the heck these people were driving over at high speeds. I've replaced three. I don't like the design as that crossmember is the lowest point on the frame. I cut them out and fab up a new (thinner) box section made of 1/8" plate or you can use a piece of 3" wide structural channel, which works great btw. The bonus to using the structural channel is gaining an 1" of ground clearance under this vulnerable piece.

    If that is more work that you want to do, take a 4-1/2" cutoff blade and cut out just the front section of the box, then you can pry down the bent top and bottom sections, and weld the front piece back on after straightening.

    Also, if your trans and engine mounts are old you may want to replace them, as newer ones will bring the engine and trans up a little from old worn out ones.

    Oh yeah, and where's your front driveshaft?
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

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