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Thread: New guy and a value question

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    killingworth CT
    Posts
    701

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    [QUOTE=distributorguy;110283]Thanks Cedryck - that's the plan! New frame, springs and shocks, motor, trans, and rewire. Brakes are easy but I'll likely upgrade - eventually. Depends on how many new parts this thing needs after sitting for so many years. The body really is in exceptional condition considering how long its been sitting. One day's body work will take care of all the rust repair, especially when the body is off and being moved to the new frame. I don't "need" the vehicle, so it can sit as long as necessary. 3 year plan to have it finished, 1 year plan to make it drivable so i can at least move it around under its own power.

    Hi, My experience has been, (purchasing a car that sat, unused for many years) is that ALL the plumbing, brakes, masters, clutch, all connecting tubes needed replacing. Not a bad thing to do, piece of mind. Electrics, mice, and time will degrade a wiring loom. Replace the whole loom. Shrink wrap the fittings,
    Drive train. Inspect all drive train components replacing the needed bearings, seals, and liquids. Corrosion and the elements are the bad influence with cars that sit.
    If you are convinced that compression is sound in your engine, have a good mechanic, upgrade to a better water pump, carb, head if needed, and any seals needed. Consult the green bible for all needed tolerances and quantities, and when you are ready to drive, put a horshoe on the front grill (just kidding) enjoy your work. Cheers.

  2. #12

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    When starting with a vehicle like this, I generally start by draining all fluids, pulling diff covers (or 3rd members), rebuilding driveshafts and hydraulics, and make an overall analysis of what's what. This is going to be a frame off, which means likely every part will be restored to new or better when reinstalled with the exception of trying to keep the body's exterior patina intact. I'd be willing to bet the axle and diff bearings are rusty. The transfer case will get rebuilt. Its getting an engine and trans swap. Everything else is likely going to be replaced, resurfaced, or restored. This will be my 4th "frame-off", but first on a Rover. This is by far the simplest vehicle I've ever owned, maybe a tie with the MGB but I made that one more complicated.

    This particular vehicle looked as though a racoon lived in it for a while? No damage - just filthy.

    PS. I do have a spare horse shoe that the tiller dug up in the pasture out back...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Northfield,Vt.
    Posts
    42

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    Quote Originally Posted by distributorguy View Post
    I recently joined this forum while looking for a Series project to build with my daughter. I've spent the last 13 years rebuilding Lucas distributors, hence my username. Thanks for all the great posts and info here!

    Now for a more direct question:
    I've recently looked at a '64 that's been parked since 1982, indoors thankfully. I'm not sure how to put a value on it. It does need a new frame, mostly due to internal rust that's thinned the metal throughout. The only perforations are in the rear near the spring hangers. One outrigger is in poor shape, as is the transmission crossmember. The leaf springs are rusted between - heavily - and damaged beyond use. This makes me concerned about rust inside the differentials and transfer case. Experience here?

    The body is pretty clean. The toe boards are rusted, but the rest of the bulkhead has held up extremely well. The inner driver's door structure has rust that needs repair. Inner wing panels are rusted. A few dents and scrapes but not bad at all. Original paint and the original galvanize trim work is presentable and rust free, never painted.

    The engine is junk, and I was planning on installing a Mercruiser 185 3.7L 4 cylinder set up for street driving, along with an NV4500 5 speed.

    This Series II is very complete, but like I said needs a reframe and a full restoration. I plan to leave the body in patina, but update and restore the drivetrain so it could be driven daily. What is this truck worth??? It does have a Kodiak IV heater installed, but it may be part of the bargaining process. A rear barn door is also available, same color from a Series III.



    Attachment 13014Attachment 13015
    Oh my God. Why would you use THAT Mercruiser engine?
    Use anything else but that.
    I'm going to assume you have it in a boat in your yard, or someone that hates you, gave it to you.
    I work on boats, and that is not an engine you want in your Rover. Trust me, it will cause you nothing but grief. There's a reason Mercury discontinued them.
    Stick with the Rover engine. Or at the least,a GM engine. Something with product support and easily sourced parts.
    That 3.7 mill is a Pandora's box of problems.
    But good for you for getting your daughter involved in learning
    automotive repair and restoration.
    She'll probably become a doctor or lawyer.

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