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Thread: Series IIA 88" clutch won't fully declutch

  1. #1

    Default Series IIA 88" clutch won't fully declutch

    Hi everyone-

    I've been wrestling with a clutch problem for some time so let me ask if anyone has a thought that might help. I have Series IIA 88" which is pretty stock. It's running a rebuilt IIA transmission from RN, installed around 1996. My problem is that it won't fully declutch when I depress the pedal. It's still grabbing and slipping. From a standstill it will start to creep forward if you let off the brake, and changing into first gear from neutral is a clashing mess. It accelerates and shifts up OK; I'm probably matching speeds fairly well. But it definitely seems like it's not disengaging completely.

    I had a new (9.5") clutch and plate put in less than 300 miles ago and there was not much improvement. I've tried adjusting the pedal travel and it's way off spec; it wants to be as high as possible to make the pedal push the MC piston farther. I've rotated the push rod at the slave cylinder and got tiny improvement but it's already way longer than the manual says (2 7/8").

    I've bled the lines many times. I wonder a couple of things: the MC was replaced not long ago; is it possible fluid is leaking around its piston? Also, could there be wear in the mechanical linkage parts downstream of the slave cylinder? I'm thinking of that connecting tube and whether the holes in it are worn to ovals.

    Anyway, thanks in advance for any ideas.

    Tom
    Tom
    1969 Series IIA 88"
    I like it because I understand how it works (mostly).

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    923

    Default

    Unfortunately, there are many places for wear in the Series clutch mechanism. 1st thing to do is to have someone depress the clutch slowly (then rapidly several times) while you watch from underneath. Make sure nothing is visibly loose, nuts, bolts, slave cylinder itself, etc.. If nothing looks amiss, here are some other things to check.

    How far down does the pedal actually move before movement is detected in the slave cylinder rod? If it's more than 2", you probably still have some air in the lines, or your MC or SC are going bad.

    The pins and linkage can definitely wear, try to check these as well when watching from underneath.

    Another often overlooked point of wear in the S2A is the clutch fork. The contact points of the fork ride on the throwout bearing holder whenever the clutch is held in. If you are prone to holding the clutch in for extended periods (at red lights, resting your foot on the clutch, etc.) or if the part is original, the points can wear down enough that you don't get full engagement.

    Lastly, you might try to lightly rotate the linkage with a pair of pliers just to further see if you can spot a worn item.
    61 II 109" Pickup (future project)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

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