Weber Carb choke cable?

[vlad_d]

Hey Rovers,

After some headaches with my original 47 year old Zenith carb, I broke down and bought a Weber carb kit. The kit came with most of the parts needed and was simple to install, except one thing:

I have a column mounted choke. I also have column locking ignition on my 1973 Series 3 Petrol - something the parts catalog doesn't even show. I had to go looking through forums to find this supplimental image:

The Weber carburator's choke linkage is rotated 90 degrees clockwise, so it points to the left fender now. The existing choke cable is too short. The one they provide is plenty long, but it's not the column mount style. It's meant to mount either by drilling a big hole in your dash to put it through, or using the bracket they give you(more holes in your dash). The dash-mounted choke looks different...not just the knob, which seems to not be trigger style any more, but a generic square knob. The difference is also that it doesn't slot into the collar that holds it onto the column. There is also a c-clip at the bottom of the knob housing that secures it into the collar on the steering column, which this doesn't have.. If you try to use the one provided in a column mount, it won't work...as there's nothing to keep it in there. See pics and diagram.

Now, I ordered a new (aftermarket) column mount choke cable and waited a week for it to arrive from the UK. Wouldn't you know it, it's too dang short!!

I really need a column mounted choke cable (the kind with the c-clip) that's about 1 foot longer than the current ones available.

Does anyone know a reference part number that might work? I'd settle for an interchange...like a Defender one, or something out of another car. Or does anyone know a supplier who makes custom lengths? Or, is there a way to restring these?

I don't want to give up and ruin my dash over a silly thing like this. I mean, it's basically bicycle cable. How hard is it to make longer lengths?!

[roverp480]

Hi Which part number did you get, was it for RH Drive or LH Drive . I have a 1975 Optional parts list and 1978 S3 Parts list and both have the same but different part numbers to ones in your post . I have a unused RH Drive one here in UK and for reference it is 32.5" from the circlip groove to the end of the outer. The inner 4" longer. If its any use I could ship it over to you. The issue in trying to lengthen it is the warning light switch position moulded in the middle although its not insurmountable if some sort of coupling is made up . Grass cutters & similar use this type of cable . The early petrol Defender cable is not attached to the column lock, but is set in the lower dash panel.

[erik88lr]

I'm having trouble envisioning what set up you have. I recently installed a Weber on my 1973 Series 3 and the choke does not point to the left fender. The orientation is identical to the Zenith's, and I used the original cable. See photos.




I don't have a locking steering column, perhaps that's where the difference comes in, but do you perhaps just need to turn your carb 90° with the correct adapter?

[wrongway]

As Erik says take a look and see if your carb can be turned 90 degrees to line the choke up. I think there should be an adapter on there already.

[jimrr]

i've had to turn the adapter plate on the carb 45 degrees AND rotate that plate 45 degrees on the manifold ......... = 90 degrees?

[vlad_d]

@Erik88LR: Yes! My Weber is installed like yours. Thanks for including the photos to the conversation...they will help. So, I guess I meant the choke linkages are on the "outside", towards the left fender. Meaning the cable has to reach all the way to the left of the engine bay, looking forward from inside the car(left of the carburator). Also, and critically, mine is a RHD. Yours is a LHD. Looks like your cable has less distance to go...just comes out of the firewall and it's right there. Since the intake manifold and carburator position is unchanged on RHD/LHD...this means RHD choke cables have farther to go. They need to be longer. Also, as a side note, the vacuum tube for the brake booster also has farther to go on RHD Rovers, too. But at least that's just dumb hose sold by the foot...not pre-cut and specific choke line with a custom end for column mount. Gosh, I wish it was just sold longer and "cut-to-fit". That would give you so many options for fit and routing.

@Rover480: Very generous of you. I just measured the two cables I have(original and part#599312). These are the ones that are JUST too short by about 6-10 inches. My length is about 33.5" from the circlip to the end of the casing, and then 3 more inches of bare wire. I didn't seem to have the choke light switch attached, which is not suprising(I have some parts that don't match the year '73 options and some missing pieces). The cable(s) have a metal band mid way for that switch, but nothing clamped to it...so that shouldn't be an issue for me. Maybe I'll get around to hooking that light up. But less of a show stopper.

I went nuclear and just ordered 4 different cables with various part numbers I saw that have that circlip fitting for column mount. None of them listed the overall lengths, so no way to know. But they are like $20 each and this is driving me crazy, so it's worth it to me. Hopefully one of them fits. If it does, I'll post the part numbers. I read another forum just stop at "you need to mount it to the dash" . It seems people just give up. I don't want to give up.

@WrongWay: I was looking at the adapter and phenolic block at length. I though the same thing. Why the hell does it do a 90 degree turn? It looks like the bolt pattern and hole, gasket...everything is the same?! I was thinking to subtract the adapter and just bolt the carb directly to the intake manifold. That's how other cars work. But. I've heard there might be heat issues and gas boiling off in the float bowl as a result. So, I wouldn't want to add a problem while trying to fix another.

For reference, guys. here's a pic of the old Zenith. Compare the throttle linkage to Erik88LR's pics below. Note the linkages are rotated between the two. The throttle just works, because they happen to be on that same corner. But the choke is 90 degrees. That little difference is worth about 6" of cable...and, sadly...the original one is too short.

On another note, the Weber carburator works BEAUTIFULLY. ery much recommend this upgrade, even with the cable hassle. Car starts right up! Runs great. No gurgle or stalling on acceleration anymore. I just need to sort out this choke cable thing. Currently, I just tucked the loose choke cable up behind the dash and pull it out on cold starts. But, it looks junky. The wife laughs at me spending hours out in the driveway and my "solution" looks like loose parts dangling from my dash. I'm not proud of it ;D

[wrongway]

Well theres your problem your steering wheel is on the wrong side, just move it to the other side problem solved!

[vlad_d]

Well theres your problem your steering wheel is on the wrong side, just move it to the other side problem solved!

Ha! Nice.

You know, now that you mention it, I'm getting used to the RHD in North America. At first. it was weird. I kept drifting in my lane as my brain tried to be on the left of my lane. But, now I like it. I have a 109, so it's long and not great visibility in the back. I can stick my head out the right side and really parallel park near the curb. Me and the postmen, in their funny Jeeps, right?

Also, I'm 6'-2" and taller LHD Series owners complain the gas pedal is pushed over by the transmission hump. I have plenty of foot room on the right side of the car.

There's positives to RHD in North America!

[jimrr]

I just bought the weber carb from our host. the cable must of been 5 ft. long and it mounted just like the rochester i had with the cable pointing forward. I can tell i'll be saving a lot of gas and I really like the new cable, it's heavy duty but the nut holding it to the ignition switch mount is on the forward side of the mounting hole and rather difficult to turn as the flats on the nut are almost touching the chassis but onece in it is a nice unit.
thx, to Rovers North!

[vlad_d]

So, to close out the post, I finally got a resolution to my RHD+Webber Carb+ Choke cable length issue.

If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself! After ordering 4 choke cables from various parts numbers, I was disappointed to find that they nearly ALL are too short. They are for LHD...even through I ordered them from the UK. I don't understand. So, I decided to make a custom choke cable. See the photo collage below for steps.



Pic #1)
Shows the 3 types of choke cable head. Top is original, with its distinctive trigger knob. Notice it has the C-Clip at the base, for column mounting. The second one down is the replacement column mounted one from Britpart, but cable length is too short for my application. Finally, the bottom is the dash mounted kind, with a big nut that makes a bezel against a hole in the dash. Also check out the bottom bracket this fits into. It wraps the ignition lock mechanism and has an offset shaft the choke cable fits into. The C-Clip holds it in place.

Pic#2)
Next image to the right is all the cables I bought, hoping for one the right length. I also bought an Edlebrock billet handled custom cable, which was the dash kind, but plenty long(about 60 inches).

Pic#3)
Having tons of extra cables, I decided to cut them up and make a custom one. I wanted the column and C-Clip mechanism, but add the length of the other cables. It turns out the cables with the choke light switch mechanism (a metal bulbous bit half way down the cable) wouldn't pull all the way out...because the choke light switch kind of limits the range of motion. So, I cut it there. Made sure the wire sleeve wasn't too pinched down, and used a file to keep things tidy. The sleeve on these is a coiled metal wrapped in Nylon. Next, I pulled out the Edlebrock cable from its sleeve and used a caliper to measure the width of the shaft on the new knob. I took out the Britpart knob, at first attempting to save it. It has a metal slice at the base that you can push up to reveal a hole that gives you access to the wire retaining bit. The wire has a bulb of pot-metal that has been pressed into a coin shape. Drill it out to remove the knob from the wire. I ended up damaging the cheap knob, so I tossed it. But, once the knob is separated from the column shaft, you can drill out the column fixing shaft to accept the Edlebrock cable (which is a simple cylinder).

Pic#4)
Here's the Edlebrock knob and cable, column mounting shaft and the sleeve from a longer cable.

Pic#5)
This shows the Frankenstein cable, with a split in the sleeve where two sleeves are about to be joined. I bought a metal coupling with 2 threaded Allen bolts for about $4 online. I will use this to connect the sleeves. You could just use some electrical tape, but there's a chance of the cable bending there and causing a kink in the inner wire. So, I recommend the coupler. Since the inner part of the sleeve is coiled metal, the threaded bolts just pinch, they don't squeeze down on the inner wire. Still, you don't have to tighten too hard.

Pic#6)
The final, finished cable. It has a billet aluminum knob, the stock column mounting, and plenty of length (almost too much. If I had to do it again, I wouldn't make it longer than 55").

Pic#7)
Installed in the car, with the plastic trim removed so you can see the mechanism.

Pic#8)
With the trim installed.

Closing thoughts)
A couple more things to note:

* I had to bend the bracket on the carburator a bit so that the action of the cable was "in line" with the axis of pulling. Straight from the box, the Weber choke seemed to jamb itself because the cable wasn't in line. Yanked/pry it with a screw driver until things line up nice. Then the cable moves more freely.

* The longer cable was a blessing and a curse. Too long is a problem, too. I first router it in S-Loops to take up the slack...but this increased friction in the line. You want to follow electricians conduit code here..."no more than 180 degrees of bend, total". Graceful curves means the line will have less friction.

All in all, I'm glad I didn't give up...or settle for a random knob sticking out of a new hole in the dash. It took a minute, and ruined 3 cables to make 1 new one. But I think the results are good, and I hope this helps someone with the same problem...