Engine and Transmission Build Advice

[Poppy1969]

Hello. I will be beginning my engine build shortly. I have watched plenty of YouTube on he subject and I did make an effort of keeping notes while I disassembled the engine. I am looking for any advice on things to be careful with. For example I know the rear main cap T seals ca be a challenge to install. I have seen several tips and tricks for this install. I have also seen plenty of information that series Engines leak oil. That is just want they do : ). Well I want to build a engine that will hopefully not leak. So advice on RTV use, gasket installed dry or a hybrid gasket/RTV. For example on oil pans I have had really good luck with doing just RTV. I have a process where I use Permatex #85080 RTV that comes in a pressurized can where you can modulate dispensing a really nice and consistent RTV bead. I typically run a nice bead and let it cure for 3 hours and then I will over several days seat the oil pan while the RTV is now a nice rubber seal that is compressed. On several oil pans I have never had a leak so far. Or shoudl I just go with the provided gasket? I have used the Hylomar Blue sealant that RN sells and I really like the product. Again do I want to use this with gaskets or gasket alone?

On the transmission will take everything apart and take a look if anything worrisome seems to be going on in the inside. For the most part I just want to seal the transmission. Looking for similar advice there. My truck does seem to have 27K original miles so I am crossing my fingers that the transmission is in good shape. At least he oil drained without any sign of large chunks of metal : ).

I will ask to keep the feedback civil here. I have seen this type of forum post sometimes turn into a bit of a mess with very little useful knowledge gained and everyone nit picking other peoples advice. I can make a judgment on what I view as useful : ).

Well thanks in advance for any tips and tricks. Tom

[vlad_d]

You're right. Lots of personal preferences. So, take it with a grain of salt.

My 2 cents:

* There's a funny old Canadian guy on YouTube called Britania Restorations that has great videos on Land Rovers. He just did a set where he rebuilt a 2.25L engine in the last 2 months. Check it out.

* I like the old form-a-gasket stuff. The tar-like stuff and put it on the gasket(cork or paper gaskets). I was in O'Reilly's looking for gasket sealer and there's 12 different kinds now. Dumb. All of them say for oil, gas, water and coolant. I think it's all a scam. Like 12 different kinds of tooth paste. Oh, do I want cavity fighting or whitening? BS! You want both! The stuff I like is called "European Gray". It's thick, and tar-like. It seals instantly, you don't have to wait 1 hour. Who the hell waits 1 hour to tighten bolts to their final torque setting? I think they tell you to do that with RTV because it will all squish out if you torque down immediately. I put the tar-like stuff on both sides of a gasket and tighten bolts immediately. I find the tar-like aspect makes install easier, too...because the gasket sticks in place, even upside down. I always use a gasket, even if the sealer says it makes itself into a gasket. There's just too much chance of the goop moving during install.

* Magnets! Get some strong 1" magnets from the hardware store. When doing oil pans, or anything that seems to require 4 hands holding bolts in their holes to hold gaskets in place...use magnets to hold the bolts in. Put them on the outside, on top of the bolt head. Then offer the pan up. The bolts hold the gasket centered in their holes.

* Always tighten bolts "across from each other", alternating. This is so things go on flat. For example, if you have 12 bolts...don't go around 1 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 3 o'clock, etc. You want to do 12 o'clock, 6 o'clock, 9 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 10, 4...it makes gaskets seat nice and flat, and less chance of pinching in one area and leaving a gap in another.

Good luck!

[dhager]

I completed a full rebuild of my 2.25L and am currently putting it back into the car. I dealt with all the issues and questions you are raising, so am happy to chime in as necessary. I am not an expert, but I can read and follow instructions very well. YouTube was VERY helpful, and if you search for Geoffrey Croker you will see some of the best engine and transmission rebuild videos you can imagine. Just incredibly informative and clear. Also search for SteamWally videos. His are also very well done.

The rear main seal is a challenge. I think it was the Britania Restorations guy who demonstrated his technique of NOT using the T-seals, but instead inject a high temp sealant after the rear main is in place. That is what I did on mine and I hope I made the right choice. Also, that damn garter spring you're supposed to connect around the shaft after you've put the rear main seal in place is a total mystery. Somehow those looped ends are supposed to interlock, but you will not find it anywhere described exactly how. I ended up very slightly opening one of the loops so I could get the two ends together.

Don