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Thread: Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default Questions

    1. Anyone have a good system for protecting the galvinized trim from rusting/fading on a Series? I know when you do get some light rust you can sometimes remove with steel wool (gentle) but I am looking for some type of protectorant to help maintain in current condition. Would a waxoxyl type product work?

    2. In regards to personal experience, what is the one or two things (simple) that can be done to a stock 2.25 do get more top end power? I do not want to convert to non-standard engine. One Rover has a Zenith the other a Weber. Otherwise both stock.

    3. I have just put Firestone 7.50x16 balanced tires on my 1972 109 and there still seems to be some play, 6 inches, in the steering. Thoughts on cause or how to diagnose cause? All advice appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    347

    Default

    Where is the rust coming from? If your trim is still in the original zinc coat and it's getting thin enough for the steel underneath to oxidize, there's not much you can do... re-galvanizing is the best solution. You could lightly remove the rust with brass wool, then spray a clearcoat over it, but it prolly won't last for more than a couple years.

    There's really no "simple" way to get more power. No single thing. You need better airflow, hotter cam, higher compression, more displacement and bigger carb to see much difference. Hence you see alot of Series folks playing with engine swaps.

    You need a strong engine to start with. You can go spendy and get "speed parts" (ha ha) from ACR (manifold, head, cam, SU carb, etc.:

    www.automotivecomp.com

    ACR claims up to 43 BHP increase over stock with the bolt-on stuff. They claim 177BHP on their 2.8 perfomance engine.

    Or you could go with an 8:1 head(which your 72 should have), Pierce manifold and Weber conversion:

    www.piercemanifolds.com

    Don't know what kind of power increase the Pierce conversion will get you. If you search Ebay and buy parts carefully you may be able to do it for under $300. Expect to see 10 HP at best I would guess.

    Steering play- start by checking your ball joints. Have a helper sit in the cab and turn the wheel back and forth in a snapping motion, while you look at all the ball joints. You will see the slop if they are worn. Six inches sounds excessive! Your steering box can also be adjusted according to the repair manual instructions.
    Last edited by Momo; 08-08-2007 at 05:32 PM.

  3. #3

    Default

    Look for loose pinch bolts securing the steering arms to the top and bottom of the steering relay. These bolts can work loose and cause a lot of slop.

    Bob
    '96 Disco SE7
    '80 SIII 109
    '75 SIII 88 V8
    '68 SIIA 109 V8
    '6? SIIA 109

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Holly Ridge, NC
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Momo
    There's really no "simple" way to get more power. No single thing. You need better airflow, hotter cam, higher compression, more displacement and bigger carb to see much difference. Hence you see alot of Series folks playing with engine swaps.

    You need a strong engine to start with. You can go spendy and get "speed parts" (ha ha) from ACR (manifold, head, cam, SU carb, etc.:

    Or you could go with an 8:1 head(which your 72 should have), Pierce manifold and Weber conversion
    I did the whole "Max hp thing" too. Had my 2.25 rebuilt with a 2.5L cam, Pierce manifold, weber 32/36, elect ignition, header, glaspack exhaust, 8:1 head, elect fan. It does seem to have a decent amount of extra HP but i havent had it dynoed and i dont have a lot of experience driving stock 2.25's.

    My steering was horrible too, but i changed all the tie rods and tightned up the steering box a bit. Also check how tight your bottom pitman arm is, mine loosened up on me and sagged a bit allowing for quite a bit of play. Luckly it takes a lot to get it off all the way but it was loose.
    First but gone: 91 3 door Disco "White Rhino"
    77 Series III 88 ex MoD "Shongololo"
    Gone and I miss her: 97 D1 5 speed
    04 DII
    08 D3 (LR3)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Thanks for the advice. They run fine on flat road or slight incline (60mph), however, going up the new span bridge in Charleston it hits 50mph and then teeters off to about 45mph when I finally crest the top. This morning I came close to sticking my leg out and pulling a Barney Rubble. By the way, try a Series with long sleeve shirt and tie when heat index is 120f.

    I really like the 2.25s and want just a little more omph not a speed demon. Maybe if I get a overdrive I can split 3rd and 4th and maintain 50? No?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PH4
    I really like the 2.25s and want just a little more omph not a speed demon. Maybe if I get a overdrive I can split 3rd and 4th and maintain 50? No?
    I'd say yes. I split 2nd and 3rd quite a bit with the roverdrive on my normal commute and it does help when you get it right. As long as you put it into the right gear before you hit the hill, you'll be better off than shifting two levers into (say 3rd overdrive from 4th) when you're already fighting to keep your speed.

    I hear you with the shirt and tie thing. Been dreaming about adding a vent in the door to suck some of that heat out from the foot well.

    Cheers,
    Tim

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Holly Ridge, NC
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PH4
    By the way, try a Series with long sleeve shirt and tie when heat index is 120f.
    Thats why i run with the top and doors off during the summer, i have a bikini top to keep the sun off. Works wonders.
    First but gone: 91 3 door Disco "White Rhino"
    77 Series III 88 ex MoD "Shongololo"
    Gone and I miss her: 97 D1 5 speed
    04 DII
    08 D3 (LR3)

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