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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Cape Charles, VA
    Posts
    9

    Default Next steps after checking coil and high-tension lead

    JP, thanks for the help and I apologize for my ignorance about all things electrical. I have verified that my coil and high-tension lead are good by hooking the coil directly to the car battery (for just a second) and holding the lead near the block. But when I reinstall the coil and hook up the side wires, I get no spark from the high-tension lead when I crank the engine. If it helps, I have verified that there is a current between the + and - sides of the coil. Any further advice? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    So the hot side of the coil comes from the ignition switch (negative earth vehicle) and the ground side goes to the distributor. When the points are closed, the coil is charging, and when they open, the energy stored in the coil is "dumped" to ground at the right spark plug based on where the distributor rotor is at the moment (timing). If you have a plug wire running from the coil to the block with a spark plug on the other end, it should spark every time the points open. If that's not happening, you have a problem in the distributor unrelated to timing, such as points not opening, bad condenser, or very commonly, the point base plate is not properly electrically isolated. There's a plastic isolator that goes on one side of the points that has to be there. You can check that the points are working by checking the continuity between each "point" of the points when they are open. Both sides should not have a connection to ground when they are open. But it's been a super long time since I messed with a points system. I convert them all over to electronic ignition, as it is much less of a hassle, in my opinion. I think our hosts even sell a kit.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Cape Charles, VA
    Posts
    9

    Default

    JP,

    I fixed the problem! As you suggested, the culprit lay in the points area. I was ploughing through old Rovers North forum posts looking for possible answers and found one where someone had reattached the condenser and LT wire to the points post incorrectly (below the metal locking nut instead of isolated between two plastic insulators). This is exactly what I had done when I replaced my points. The truck is running well now. Thanks for your help walking me through it.
    Last edited by Hippo; 04-04-2024 at 03:11 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Awesome! Yep, just a small mistake in that area will lead to a no start condition in a hurry, as you witnessed.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

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