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Thread: Waxoyl season is upon us!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Westford, Vermontistan
    Posts
    82

    Default Waxoyl season is upon us!

    Condolences to autumn, the season of salt-covered roads is knocking at our doors here in Vermont.

    Looking ahead at our cold forecast, I've decided it's time to prepare my recently acquired 109" military for the inevitably brutal Vermont winter by treating my Rover with a coating of Waxoyl. I prefer Waxoyl to rubberized undercoating, which has a tendency to crack and/or bubble, trapping moisture under the bubbles against the chassis, causing a worse situation than having not sprayed the vehicle with any undercoating.

    The first step will be to power wash the undercarriage and let it dry out overnight in the garage. I'm going to store the Waxoyl at room temperature overnight to keep it nice and fluid. The next day, I'll use a wire brush to scrape away any corrosion that is willing to co-operate at being removed by hand.

    Next, I'll spray insides the chassis rails and any body cavities I can access using the clear Waxoyl(RNW5003/RNW5004), followed by spraying the remainder of the underside with the Waxoyl Hardwax(RNW5005/RNW5006)-sans fuel and exhaust systems.

    To learn more about Waxoyl, here are some links to the products I'll be using:

    Waxoyl-hardwax-underbody-5-litre-tin

    Waxoyl-hardwax-underbody-500ml-aerosol

    Waxoyl-rust-inhibitor-clr-5-litre-tin

    Waxoyl-rust-inhibitor-clr-500ml-aerosol

    Feel free to ask me any questions about Waxoyl.

    Have a great day,

    Mike Koch
    1978 Series III 109" military(driven daily)
    Last edited by Mike Koch; 11-02-2006 at 10:30 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hilo, Hawaii or Santa Ana, CA
    Posts
    177

    Default Do you have a guide for frame cavities???

    I used to have a magazine that showed the various places to drill to reach all the frame cavities, but I lost it or the wife threw it out. Would you by chance have a guide where to drill to get all the various frame cavities? I have a 109 amby I just brought to Hilo, Hi and a good underbody waxing couldn't hurt.

    KingSlug

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Westford, Vermontistan
    Posts
    82

    Default

    There is no need to drill holes in the frame/body when applying Waxoyl.

    The 120-4 Body Cavity Protection atomizes, coating the inside chassis rails and body cavities with a fine mist. It is designed to be sprayed into cavities via the factory openings. Using the Waxoyl spray wand(http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-7...ort-wands.aspx ), which can be s***** up into the chassis, with an air compressor(80-110 psi) is the recommended method; however, the aerosol cans, with included spray extension, do a good job if you don't have access to an air compressor.

    The Hardwax is applied to the underside of the vehicle(but avoid the fuel and exhaust systems) and should be sprayed at 40-45 psi. using a Waxoyl applicator gun(http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-7281-waxoyl-hardwax-appltn-gun.aspx) Once again, the aerosol cans do a good job if you don't have access to an air compressor.

    Corrosion never sleeps,

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Koch; 11-10-2006 at 03:04 PM.
    Mike Koch

    1993 Range Rover SWB
    "Backup car? Why would I need a backup car? My car backs up just fine."

  4. #4

    Default

    Any suggestion as to which products and quantities to do a Disco II?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Westford, Vermontistan
    Posts
    82

    Default

    Using a 5 litre tin of the 120-4 Body Cavity Protection, I can spray three vehicles. Using a 5 litre tin of the Hardwax, I can spray the underside of two vehicles.

    To perform a thorough job, and have some product left over for future touch-up work, use a case(12 cans-SAVE 10% on cases of 12-pls. inquire!) of the Hardwax aerosol cans.

    -Mike
    Mike Koch

    1993 Range Rover SWB
    "Backup car? Why would I need a backup car? My car backs up just fine."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kodiak Alaska
    Posts
    17

    Default

    I just finished preserving my sills on my 97 D1. I did the inside with the cavity wax last year and wire brushed all surface rust and painted on some Extend rust neutralizer on all exposed rust, then sprayed them down with the hardwax today. While I was undernearh the truck I noticed some splits in the undercoating where rust was bleeding through in the floor. Anone know the best way to treat this. I didn't want to poke around too much for fear that I'd poke through the floor. If the rust isn't too deep, will just cleaning and spraying with hardwax slow or halt it or should I scrape away the undercoat and neutralize the area?
    "A deep respect for tradition allows vision for liberation from stagnation."
    1983 V8 109
    1997 Discovery XD
    1972 SIII 88SW
    1969 SIIA 88 Pickup(Crushed)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Southern Indiana, USA
    Posts
    126

    Default

    This is for Mike Koch, Do the waxoyl products that you spray on the under frame and inside the fenders dry in a clear form ? I was going to use sometype of undercoating for the springs and frame, but use a clear coating for under the rearbox, seats and places that I do not want covered in black. Give me your advice. thanks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    162

    Default

    How well does Waxoil work for desert environments? Not much mositure down here but plenty of alkaline soil.
    1973 Series III 88. "PHYDXO"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    16

    thumb-up Wax that works

    First a quick note on Mike's first post. According to Waxoyl HQ the surface that Waxoyl Hardwax (the underbody protection product) and Waxoyl 120-4 (the cavity protector) are applied to does not need to be totally dry to achieve best results. Waxoyl's unique capillary action will penetrate through light moisture to contact and bond with the metal. It will actually displace light water to reach the metal. This is important when you consider the fact that cavities of vehicles may never be truely dry. Of course i dont think it will cut through standing puddles of water. This is a huge advantage because it makes application simple, as other product fail and peal off if the metal is not perfectly clean and dry.

    And in response to sayers question: "Do the waxoyl products that you spray on the under frame and inside the fenders dry in a clear form ?"

    No, the Waxoyl underbody product called Hardwax is black. Waxoyl does not recommend using any products on the gear box, exhaust, or engine because heating will likely cause the product to burn off, smell while it is burning, and not work in the long run. Waxoyl 120-4, the product designed for us in cavities, is clear and works fantasticly on surfaces. It is thin and requires only 45 microns of thicknes to prevent corrosion. It works best in places without abrasion as it is thin and easily removed. To apply it on surfaces use the k-4 wand (as you know all Waxoyl products are for professional use only, and require the appropriate application tools) and about 50 psi as opposed to the 100 psi for cavities. In addition to the cavities I applied Waxoyl 120-4 in several places under my hood where rust was popping up (that were not places that get hot), in the door handle exterior (you know how defenders love to collect water and rust in the door handles), along my floor boards, around my fuel filler area, and a number of other places. The 120-4 is a light pink when you pour it into the gun, but is rather invisible when applied because it is so thin.

    In response to Rat Patrol's question: "How well does Waxoyl work for desert environments? Not much moisture down here but plenty of alkaline soil." Waxoyl works fabulously in desert environments. It is very popular in the middle east and africa. Under higher temperatures the wax base that supports/ protects the corrosion fighting agents will be more pliable but still function fantastically. In fact high temperatures speed the healing process of any scratches made to the surface of the hardwax (not that it needs to heal them fast as the corrosion fighting agent bonds to the metal, not the visible wax layer). On the downside warmer temperatures will mean that it will be a little messy to work on until you drive it enough to get a coat of fine dust on it to stop the stickiness.


    Feel free to email me at Calef"at"roversnorth.com with any waxoyl questions. (I subbed the @ for "at" to avoid spam bots)

    thanks
    Calef

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    2,005

    Default Waxoyl

    So Mike, hows the prep going for winterising your 93 SWB Classic?
    Need to do the 97 Discovery, too.

    Les Parker
    Tech. Support and Parts Specialist
    Rovers North Inc.

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