Whats a fair price and am I crazy?

[runabout]

Found a 1973 Series III in a barnyard in the country. Its got 30k miles, looks very complete and original. It has no rust that I can find, only a few small dents as to be expected. It has not been run in 12 years. Just sat collecting dust. Theres no batery, so I cant turn it over. Couldnt do any diagnostics to speak of because I did not have any tools.

Seats are shot, and some of the hoses are dry and look worn. Other than that its all there and clean and tight.

So, Im trying to figure out what its fair market value is. Any Ideas?

[Jim-ME]

My opinion is that if all you have to do is replace hoses and tires, change all the fluids, do a complete ture up, and buy a new battery to have a driveable Rover my guess is that you would get a bargin up to $5,000. There are folks that would pay more and that is solely your decision depending on how badly you have been bitten by the Rover bug.
Jim

[Mercedesrover]

my guess is that you would get a bargin up to $5,000.

$5000? Are you trying to sell this truck?

It better be a darn nice truck for that kind of money. When you say sitting in the barnyard, do you mean sitting in the barn or the yard? Stored inside for 12 years is one thing, stored outside is quite another.

Are you sure there's no rust? I noticed from your other post that you live near a ski hill so I'm asuming there's snow where you live. How familiar with Land Rovers are you? You do know that the body is aluminum, right? The firewall (bulkhead) radiator support (breakfast) and frame are all steel, and this is where you'll find rust. Look at the footwells and frame closely. If you live in an are that has snow (and salt on the roads) you're going to have rust. I promise you.

If the truck has been sitting for that long, plan on the transmission and differentials to have problems too. The portion of the gears that have been sitting above the level of oil are surely rusted from condensation from the hundreds of heating/cooling cycles they've been exposed to. After a while the film of oil that protects them from this runs off and the gears will rust. The gas tank will be rusty for the same reason, both above the level of sour gas thats in the tank as well as the bottom where it pools under the fuel.

That's just the start of it. There will be 1000 other things that are wrong with the truck after that length of neglect.

Sorry to burst your bubble but if this truck has been sitting outside in a cold and wet part of the world it's going to be far from a drivable truck with a new battery. If it's been properly stored inside in Arizona, maybe. If it's in the shape I think it is, take one of those zeros off the price.

Jim

[LH Drive]

My first and only 1972 Series 3 was no barnyard find but it had been sitting for a few years also. It had a solidframe, the bulkhead and driver footwell panel had rust and I could see the ground from the passenger side footwell panel. min.rust on the door frames,window frames, but the window channels had to be swept away on a dust pan from all the rust. It had a new Turner engine installed and was running like a champ before parked, the PO had passed away. I also thought I would just install a new battery, add fuel and drive away. so I offered $3,200 and the next day I hauled it away.
To my supprize every seal had swollen up and started to leak so the brake booster & master cylinder were gone along with the wheel cylinders. The clutch pedal was all the way to the floor so the slave cylinder was also rusted shut. The input/output t-case seals started leaking and soon the e-brake would not hold. The pressure plate had somehow rusted solid to the flywheel and the clutch would not disengage. Fuel pump and Zenith carb was shot and I got lucky my fuel tank that was stainless steel so I just had to drop it and clean the gunk off. Fuel sending unit rusted away along with the pick up pipe. The 5 new tires with 100% tread had dry rot and also had to be replaced. I know I've spent over $3,000 on parts and hundreds of hours in my garage. I'm still very happy with my Series Rover but maybe if I had spent $1,500 less when I bought it I would have a new paint job.


MercedesRover is right,,,,$500 would be all I would pay now that I know what work is to be done. Think of it this way,,,how much will you buy it for if all you want to do is move it to your property just to look at it everyday.

[yorker]

For something that has sat derelict for that long I wouldn't give much for. I've never paid more than $700 for a Land Rover. Usually I offer $500. Sure if it was rust free and all original it is worth more but around here derelict Rovers are not rust free... Get a good hammer and start pounding on the frame, rear crossmember, front frame horns, check the bulkhead- footwells, etc.

[runabout]

Wow, perfect. Thanks for the responses. I appreciate the different opinions although Im not sure what bubble you are talking about bursting Jim.

I have never owned a series rover. I have owned a 98 range 4.6 and a 02 Discovery. Im interested in a series rover because of its simplicity, and the fact that Im pretty sure that the car will cost about the same as the maintenance bill ran me on my other cars, and I have a thing for old stuff.

I live in California. The Rover lives in a field in the desert now, and will live in a garage in a ski town in the mountains serving as a now and then car that will be used when it really dumps, or in the summer when I want to camp etc, not a daily driver, but my fun car. Out here we dont salt our roads, we use these things called snowplows, and we dont get the ice yall get up there in the north pole so salt is not required.

This rover lived in the desert and was used by a surveyor in a mining industry. All the areas you mentioned in your post were included in the copy of the "What to look for when buying a rover" section of the Rover FAQ site. I brought a printed copy of it out there when I had a look at this beast, believe me, the everlooming thought that a Great Basin rattle snake was going to crawl in mah boot while I lay under and around the rig w/ my trusty hammer was keeping me focused. So, all said, Im gonna stick with my answer and say I could not find any rust in my inspection. Paint is great too.

I didnt have my tools or an environment that was conducive to exporing gear boxes or internals, so thats a question mark. I dont understand why the gears would rust apart from sitting. I restored a 1975 VW westfalia, and it had sat for years too. I did have to drop the tank and clean and POR15 it, but the gears and internals were fine. I used liberal amounts of marvel mystery oil, and a few good fluid flushings and tuned her up all was well. I did do new heads just to feel confident on long trips. I camped all over the west in that thing, darn good rig. I have revived an old perkins diesel using that same method, in the salt water. Would you change your opininion on the state of the trans and diffs if the Rover sat out in the desert Jim?

So, lets say there needs to be the kind of work that LH Rover describes, what is that gonna add up to? I think that a purchase price of $500 is wishful thinking. The way I see it, I could get a runner for not much more than the $5K right? So how does one decide weather to take on one of these or not? I kinda like this one, but I am not an owner yet, Im really interested in obtaining a clean little series rover and want to set a realistical budget. So all help is appreciated.

I have also uploaded a picture of the Rover Im considering.

[LaneRover]

About 2 1/2 years ago I paid $5K for a Rover in Maine. It had sat for a bit, the body was all dinged up but it started up AND it already sat on a galvanized frame, had a front winch and a roof rack. I probably put another grand and many hours into it as I had to replace all the brake shoes, a couple of wheel cylinders, tune up, headlights, bulbs and so on. I should have replaced all the brake drums too but didn't have the cash at the time.

If the Rover in question doesn't have rust and you could start it and drive it then I would think about maybe paying the 5K. But as you can't drive it, start it or anything like that I would pay much less. There are potentially A LOT of problems that will rear their ugly heads since it has sat. If it is all complete and truly looks to be in good condition I would consider around 2000-2500. The big kick is not being able to drive it at all.

Brent

[LH Drive]

I still think the $500 tag on one from the rust belt that has sat for a few years is a reasonable offer.. I too would drop 2,000- 2,500 for one with a body that I would not have to replace any steel frames or mess with the bulkhead or swap out a frame. What does a rust free bulkhead go for anyway? I know its hard to offer someone change for something that they think is worth gold. I dont have $5,000 laying arround and to some $500 may seem like $5,000. I would print out some classified adds and show these when I make the offer. Some of us are sales guys and I know I'm not one. I sold my 1980 Diesel Scout for $2,400 after dumping $6,000 into it and I paid $2,500 for it.
If the tranny is not in gear you should be able to turn the engine by hand with the starting hand crank thats laying behind the seat. It should be there if the LR has 30,000 original miles.

[BackInA88]

Don't bet on a good drivetrain.
I bought a Series III trans from a guy in New Mexico (dustykowboy) and he said the trans was "perfect" it was a mess.
All the gears above the oil level were rusted BAD!

At least put the trans in netrual and jack up one wheel and turn the drive shaft by hand, and make sure it will shift through the gears on both the trans and t-case.


Steve

[runabout]

I see. Ouch. Bummer. You all think I will spend $3K to $5K putting this in reliable driver status? Oh, also I called the owner and said he wants $4K, no less. I was thinking I would have to spend $6K to $10K on one that is in a condition I would appreciate. Can I break even on this? I like the idea of knowing that I performed or hired all the work out and verified it. But it is gonna cost me. Im losing my excitement here by the hour.