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Thread: Weird vibration

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    79

    Default Weird vibration

    In the last 2-3 wks the truck has developed a vibration (more felt than heard, although a few bits of sheet metal rattle in tune) between about 30 and 45 mph. Could the rear drive shaft splines be worn? I checked it and could detect movement between the splines when I rotated the oppposite halves against each other - more movement than the front prop that is relatively unused (free-wheeling hubs). How can I check this without fancy equipment, and what else could it be before I go and buy a new drrive shaft? The CV joints seem to be fine...many thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    City of Kings
    Posts
    109

    Default

    Rattles.... first thing to do is engage 4wd and see if your rattle disappears.

    Mine did last time I had this problem. Turned out to be rear prop shaft wear. You can also take out rear propshaft and see if you get and vibration while just driving in front wheel drive.

    Any decent propshaft repair place can rebuilt these to better then original specs.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    I agree- the splines sound like they are shot. I assume the u-joints are perfect if you went to the splines, but there should be virtuallu no movement up and down, and even less trying to counter-rotate the halves.

    PS the free-wheel hubs only starve the front upper steering pin and u-joints of oil. Make sure you engage the hubs regularly to move that oil around.

    I do not condone the use of free-wheel hubs, as they are a weak link prone to breakage and do not offer any substantial increase in fuel economy on a series truck. This is on top of the loss of splash-oil as mentioned earlier...
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Glenwood,N.B. Canada
    Posts
    57

    Arrow

    Quote Originally Posted by J!m

    I do not condone the use of free-wheel hubs, as they are a weak link prone to breakage and do not offer any substantial increase in fuel economy on a series truck.
    Surely an opinion Jim, i've only ever seen one Warn hub break... on the other hand i've seen front axels and spider gears explode with hubs engaged.....


    This is on top of the loss of splash-oil as mentioned earlier...
    On this we agree
    regards; Dave
    A 1997 Discovery guy from


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    It is your truck and your choice of course.

    I have seen the ramins of too many hubs (and overdrives for that matter) to allow them on any major expedition for Drive the Globe. I always do the tech inspections prior to the major expeditions, and have the support of the company owner with this decision (based on his own misfortune). If you have locking hubs and/or an overdrive, they must be removed or the truck does not go; simple as that. We need absolute reliability on these trips and even without those weak links, there are plenty of other places to fail as you have pointed out. We went through two transmissions, two diffs and two locking hubs on the trip (on top of a bent front axle tube and two sets of rear springs and about a thousnad 'minor' failures). Let's not add fuel to the fire...

    It's more than an opinion when based on hard data.

    J!m
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J!m
    I have seen the ramins of too many hubs (and overdrives for that matter) to allow them on any major expedition for Drive the Globe. I always do the tech inspections prior to the major expeditions, and have the support of the company owner with this decision (based on his own misfortune). If you have locking hubs and/or an overdrive, they must be removed or the truck does not go; simple as that. We need absolute reliability on these trips and even without those weak links, there are plenty of other places to fail as you have pointed out. We went through two transmissions, two diffs and two locking hubs on the trip (on top of a bent front axle tube and two sets of rear springs and about a thousnad 'minor' failures). Let's not add fuel to the fire...

    It's more than an opinion when based on hard data.
    Jim,
    Of the two hubs that died, what brand were they? Faireys? Superwinch? AVM?

    What problems have you had with overdrives? Strictly Faireys? Toros?
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    One set of hubs were definitely Warn brand; I don't recall the other. That Warn set had the most broken parts falling out of them... Actually, while on the subject of Warn, I can honestly say I have not seen any other brand of winch broken more often than Warn brand. They are very popular, but seem to be made quite poorly.

    The overdrives from all manufactures (for the series) have problems and death at some point. If you buy it new, run full synthetic only and change the oil VERY often (every 1000 miles or more often if driven for long periods), and check the oil level daily, you should get 10 years out of them before they die. They all have small sumps, and run exceptionally hot. The problem is, no one wants to buy them new, and no one wants to change the oil. So, the bearings fry and/or seize. If they seize, they can take out transfer box parts with them, so just carrying along the old plate and bearing is not an option either.

    Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of an overdrive, and am considering one for my 110 (the new one RN is offering); however it will be removed prior to any expedition, as it would be for any other participant of any Drive the Globe expedition.

    When you vehicle is relied upon to get you, your rider and all the gear you carry safely home, it is not up for discussion...
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    613

    Default

    My '72 has dealer-installed Warns on it. I leave them locked, though... I'd only unlock them for a longer highway trip, then lock them back once off the highway. Even around town, they stay locked.

    What problems have you seen with Wise Owl's Roverdrive?

    I don't have an overdrive (yet), but have been considering a Roverdrive, not a Fairey (don't think you could find a Toro anymore, either).
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    city of maples
    Posts
    398

    Default

    i would have to say it sounds like u joints to me, the front one to be exact.
    grease them to see if the noise quits, if it does you just made the diagnosis. marc

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    79

    Default

    Just to make sure I am being logical here - do the free wheeling hubs disengage the front drive shafts and prop shaft (when in 2WD)? Therefore the CV joints in the front should be stationary when the FWHs are in FW mode, and no wear should occur, except perhaps to the upper pin of the swivel ball. So theoretically the front drive components should last longer with FW hubs installed? Or is there something about their operation I am not understanding? Thanks.

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