Yes, shortening one side of the axle to get the diff where it should be I thought was obvious, but perhaps not...
Fo those who don't know, you have to have all your drive line angles correct (diff input parallel to t-case output [most important] and side angle as close to zero as possible under the weight of the truck at rest [slightly less important]). If the transfer case output is outside the frame rail, then the pumpkin needs to be outside the frame rail (and your spring perch needs to be ON the diff, like the stock series nearly is). If the transfer box output is within the frame rails, the diff needs to be within the frame rails.
You want no angle to the side if it can be avoided- the drive shaft parallel to the frame rail (and it obviously can be in this case, since you are making it up custom), so set it correctly before you weld it, or have an axle made up the correct width with the diff in the correct place. There are several companies who do this sort of work, and this is what we refer to as "the right way" to set up custom rigs, if you simply MUST change out the axles. I'd suggest a set of Ford 9 inch front and rear, so you have the removable third member like a stock series truck for quick repairs (although they don't break).
Now the stories come pouring in of how "it's been XXX years since I did mine and it's fine" well, take the chance then. Meanwhile, look under any factory car or truck and see how the side angle is as close to zero as possible... Do you think there may be a reason for this? Hmmm....
Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.
1995 110 Regular