Broken Down

[PH4]

It may be my fault. My mechanic was pushing me to get a new radiator but it being the winter I was trying to get by for awhile. I was diligent in watching the temp. guage and it never registered over the middle. Has anyone had trouble with stock temp guage in instrument cluster? Any suggestions on where to get best quality/price radiator? I always try and get parts from our hosts because of exceptional service but $500 is more than I can put into a radiator. In addition, when climbing steep grade at 50mph it startled to knock under full throttle a month before breakdown. Thought the timing just off but maybe hint of something else?

I really need this motor to be reliable as it is my daily driver. I had to attend a meeting by phone yesterday because of the break down which was not good. I enjoy driving it so want to be able to take on 300+ mile trips. A new engine may solve problem but just looked at new one from RN and it is over $5k. Because of my work schedule I only have limited time to turn a spanner which means minor repairs. Maybe an overdrive will take some of stress off engine but I never push over 60mph and usually only 55mph. Lot of babble on my part but any advice appreciated.

[Tim Smith]

It may be my fault. My mechanic was pushing me to get a new radiator but it being the winter I was trying to get by for awhile. I was diligent in watching the temp. guage and it never registered over the middle. Has anyone had trouble with stock temp guage in instrument cluster? Any suggestions on where to get best quality/price radiator? I always try and get parts from our hosts because of exceptional service but $500 is more than I can put into a radiator. In addition, when climbing steep grade at 50mph it startled to knock under full throttle a month before breakdown. Thought the timing just off but maybe hint of something else?

I really need this motor to be reliable as it is my daily driver. I had to attend a meeting by phone yesterday because of the break down which was not good. I enjoy driving it so want to be able to take on 300+ mile trips. A new engine may solve problem but just looked at new one from RN and it is over $5k. Because of my work schedule I only have limited time to turn a spanner which means minor repairs. Maybe an overdrive will take some of stress off engine but I never push over 60mph and usually only 55mph. Lot of babble on my part but any advice appreciated.

PH4,
It sounds like you are getting overly worried about this. I think the advice put up earlier is all very good. I doubt that you melted your engine into junk so lets not start thinking about big bill items like that yet, shall we.

Personally I suspect the valve train and that's really pretty easy to check. If you were in my neighborhood, I'd stop by and check it for you. It would take all of 10-15 minutes to check.

As an aside, why does your mechanic want you to replace your radiator? Is it leaking beyond repair? Clogged? I'd be surprised if your radiator is just "worn out" and needing replacement. These old rovers can be kept going with much elbow grease and less flat out replacing of parts. That is in contrast to newer cars that have many non-serviceable parts which makes me wonder about your mechanic's diagnosis. But that's just me.

In the worst case, you could have burned out a ring or worse but try checking out some of the steps mentioned in the earlier posts before you think about replacing the motor. Thats right, roll up your sleeves and get dirty.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers,
Tim

[Terrys]

Tim's right. These radiators were made when they used good heavy cores. I have never junked one. You very likely might need to have it professionally boiled and backflushed, but that would be the total extent.

Engine "knocks" can come from a variety of problems. Much the same as the radiators, they too are stout enough to last till the next century, and very rebuildable. It can be as simple as retarded timing, to bad main or rod bearings. Piston slap too.

[PH4]

Thanks for the advice. Looks like I will have to really get into the engine. My mechanic checked the compression and got 0 on one of the cylinders. The piston in that cylinder is loose and not connected. in his words "something broke/let loose in the bottom end of the engine". I was not able to have an in depth conversation at that point and told him to hold off on tearing engine apart. After it happened I checked the oil and plenty of oil and clear as a bell.

In regards to the radiator, the actual cooling fins have been coming off at a pretty good clip this past year. But I am open to suggestions.

[Daurie]

How well do you know / trust your mechanic? This is just me talking but unless I have a personal relationship with a mechanic / independent shop, I wouldn't trust him/her as far as I could throw them. Don't get me wrong because I know there are trustworthy mechanics out there but I feel that finding the right one who won't take advantage of an individual with lesser knowledge concerning mechanic work takes time.

Maybe I've been hanging out around the wrong folks.. who knows. It may be worth your time to get a rover friend off of here to look over it, if there is one nearby, and then go from there.

There is some good advice on here and rolling up your sleeves and checking things out will be a good thing. You will either find and get your issue fixed or you will gather enough information to be well armed with information when you go in to get the repairs made.

Good Luck!

[ajones]

Correct me if I am wrong but pressure could not be building in that cylinder b/c the valves are not closing fully, i.e. valve train issues rather than a broken piston or connecting rod, therefore during compression stroke air is just pushed out through said open valve rather than being compressed. Thus, I would concur with the others: pull valve cover and take a look. Then, if you really think you have a bottom end problem drop the oil pan and look in it (metal bits) and at that cylinder.

[PH4]

I find my mechanic very trustworthy in his dealings and have used him for years. He is also very fair in his charges. He has worked on a good many Rover engines. Although he is no expert on Rover engines he has been pretty good in the past. I have found him to be the exception to the norm.

I by no means want to pay for a new engine but am considering fact that I have two Series whether it would be worth going ahead and getting a new one. Unfortunately, my experience also tells me that as soon as I put a strong healthy engine in it will show the probably weak condition of transmission.

[Daurie]

Sounds like you've found a keeper mechanic. If the engine is indeed in the condition he describes then a short block may be the way to go depending on the cost to rebuild. Of course this is assuming the head is fine.

[Tim Smith]

I hope your mechanic is good like you say. Remember that you're not making/keeping a friendship with your mechanic but rather conducting business with him. If you confuse that then you might not end up satisfied with the business or the friendship (if there is one).

I have a funny feeling that he is trying to leave you with a bunch of questions and not trying to definitively find the answer for you. I mean, there are only 3 nuts holding the valve cover on. Why didn't he just take a quick look and then you would know if it were the top end or the bottom??? Breaking the seal maybe? But it was a new head gasket so...

Maybe I'm just not trusting of mechanics. I've been swindled in the past and I'd like to think I know a thing or two even if I'm not an expert.

Any way, back on topic, pop the valve cover off, and check that cylinder (and all of them too in case he had a bad reading). It's my guess that you are talking about a 50/50 chance that it's the top end or the bottom end.

If you are in the southern CT area, then PM me. It would make me feel better to know that a fellow series owner isn't getting ripped off!

Although, if your mechanic is anything like the ones I've experienced, he won't let me on his property with my tool bag in hand.

Good luck and let us know how this goes.

[Tim Smith]

I by no means want to pay for a new engine but am considering fact that I have two Series whether it would be worth going ahead and getting a new one. Unfortunately, my experience also tells me that as soon as I put a strong healthy engine in it will show the probably weak condition of transmission.

Sorry to double post folks... so as for the condition of your transmission, well lets tackle one problem at a time.

Hmm...<grinding gears>... <smoke - puff>.. <grind gears some-more>

Although, if you have a number of issues ailing your truck then it would be wise to use this as a stand back moment. You know, stand back and make a complete list of everything it needs. Gather your costs together and then decide what is necessary for you to have the reliable truck you are looking for.

I'd hate to recommend any one to drop their series due to something like this but in the same light, it would equally be too bad if you never get the chance to really enjoy the truck because "there is always something wrong with it". Best not to walk into this eyes wide shut.

By taking a full head-on look at everything the truck needs and getting it dealt with correctly the first time is well worth it. If you can't work on it your self then your costs may go way up. So lets be honest here.

Lets see. If you need a short block rebuild, well that might be expensive. Few grand maybe, I don't know? A transmission, well you're probably talking a few grand more (still guessing here). A radiator, well you've already found an honest price for a new one. What else is there?

Seriously, add it all up and decide for yourself if you want to do the whole kitandkaboodle or if she'll hold together after the motor is fixed.

After saying all that, let me also add that my series trucks have been far cheaper to run than everything else I've owned (other than my first Honda which I still only owned about 1 1/2 years). Seriously, my series trucks have lasted me longer than anything else I've owned hands down but the fact that I can do my own maintenance is a huge help. It's also a lot more satisfying to do my own work too.

If I did have to pay for the labor of the maintenance items and the occasional broken axle then it might be another story.

So the moral of the story is, get it done right. All of it. Then do the maintenance yourself and have a great time with your truck.

Kind regards,
Tim