Broken Down

[PH4]

Tim, thanks for the comments. My other Series is a 1962 which I have had for over ten years now with little to no problems, however, it was rebuilt while I was in Switzerland by a pretty unique shop that only restores Series and kits out 110s for expedition(they really knew what they were doing) so I have probably been spoiled by its reliability. The 1972 with the problem(s) that seem to mount I bought as more of a daily driver and to use for 4-6 hour round trips. I am definitely in it for the long haul but want to make sure I do not keep patching a problem that will have to be replaced eventually. Scary thing is I was actually convincing my wife the need for a Series 1 on ebay that was up for bid the night before the break down.

[Tim Smith]

Tim, thanks for the comments. My other Series is a 1962 which I have had for over ten years now with little to no problems, however, it was rebuilt while I was in Switzerland by a pretty unique shop that only restores Series and kits out 110s for expedition(they really knew what they were doing) so I have probably been spoiled by its reliability. The 1972 with the problem(s) that seem to mount I bought as more of a daily driver and to use for 4-6 hour round trips. I am definitely in it for the long haul but want to make sure I do not keep patching a problem that will have to be replaced eventually. Scary thing is I was actually convincing my wife the need for a Series 1 on ebay that was up for bid the night before the break down.

Great! So you know what I mean about the reliability and longevity of a good series truck.

I'm glad now!!!

Thanks,
Tim

[PH4]

Little more information. Apparantly cylinder #3 threw a rod. No idea why.

[Tim Smith]

Little more information. Apparantly cylinder #3 threw a rod. No idea why.

Wow, that stinks! I'm surprised there wasn't a little more warning leading up to that.

Anyone know if that can be done with the motor in-situ? Never had to replace a rod myself and kind of curious about it...

Good luck with it and let us know how it all turns out. Pictures too if possible.

[PH4]

The only warning I know of was knocking in fourth gear at 50mph when climbing grade month before but not enough to warrant concern (maybe).

I must confess that when it threw the rod I had earbuds in listening to Ipod going 60mph on flat surface, however, I really do not think if I had them out there would have been any indication of what was about to happen.

Is there some way oil could have been blocked from getting to that cylinder?

[Tim Smith]

Is there some way oil could have been blocked from getting to that cylinder?

Sure, anything is possible. When you get the parts out, you'll want to take a good look at them real close. I imagine you'll be able to find out if it was over heated, under tightened or overstressed once you get in there. Look for any clogs in the oil passages too when you are in there.

Man, I'm kind of surprised the rod just went like that.

Good luck!

[Saxondog]

I'd go ahead and rebuild the whole engine at this point. If you have another vehicle to use for awhile. At a minimum you have trashed the #3 rod and the crankshaft will have to be reground. Never tore down a rover engine but done many others, I'll eat my shorts if you can get that crank out with the engine still in. On any manual trans I ever saw, the input shaft protrudes into the end of the crank. Which means either the trans or engine must be removed, or at least separated from each other. Since the engine is your problem, I'd take it out. Getting an engine out is not as bad some may think. Once you have it out and tear it down you will understand completely how it works. Once you get the machine shop work done just follow the reaasembly instructions in the manual. The hardest part of a rebuild is getting the trans mated back to the engine and getting it started the first time. Give it whirl!!

[PH4]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Since regardless of what I do the current engine is going to have to be removed I have had it towed home and plan on removing/diagnosing the engine myself and using this as a way to better my Series knowledge and skills.

[PH4]

Any reccomendations regarding removing engine and putting in position to rebuild. I see in Green Bible they have a specific tool for this but doubt I can find one. I think I will use my cumberlong but how do you set in a position to do the overhaul? Fairly remedial question but I do not have a garage so I need to plan accordingly.

[Daurie]

Most chain auto parts stores or tool houses will have a reasonably priced engine stand around. Once you get it (engine) out transfer it straight to that and wheel it where you plan to work. It helps to have an assortment of long bolts and washers on hand that will thread into the rear of the block where the trans bellhousing mated up.