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Thread: Out of the blue it won't idle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Brewer, Maine
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    Default Out of the blue it won't idle

    Title says it all. Ran great yesterday no problems. It will not idle but starts right up again. Weather today is damp and spitting snow. Spayed everything with WD-40. It didn't help. I am running a Disco-Tech distributor FWTW. Ideas will be happily accepted.
    Thanks,
    Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    218

    Default

    broken choke cable or related parts?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Brewer, Maine
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    Default

    No that all seems whole but thanks.
    Jim
    PS
    Had to add oil, about a pint and noticed that the oil fill tube is showing evidence of moisture. Can't check the coolant because it's too hot but I don't think I'm loosing any. I know there was a thread about this previously but damed if I can find it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
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    Default

    Since the coolant is too warm I am assuming that it won't idle whether it is hot or cold? If it won't idle only when it is cold I would say that something with the choke linkage could be slipping so that it won't engage - it wouldn't be readily apparent as a broken cable.

    Other possibilities:

    Clogged idle jet

    You haven't been giving the Rover enough attention recently

    Vacuum leak

    In-laws are visiting and they like to give you crap about driving an old truck that doesn't run well.

    Brent
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Brewer, Maine
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    Fiddled with it most of the evening still can't get it to idle without the choke being pulled out about 1/2 way. Checked plugs and they were all carboned up (black soot) so I'll replace them tomorrow. Can someone tell me which Champion plug of NGK plug for an 8:1 compression engine with electronic dizzy. I don't trust what is currently in there based on some of the other junk I've found from the PO. This may not be the problem but it sure isn't helping.
    Jim

    Never mind I found the info on TeriAnne's site. What a wonderful and very useful place!!
    Last edited by Jim-ME; 02-10-2008 at 08:28 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I have champion NIIYC (N11YC?) in my s2a. has pertronix. now runs great.

    Erik

  7. #7
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    Nov 2006
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    N. York
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    1,635

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    RN12yc IIRC.

    When was the last time you cleaned your carb?


    The moisture in the oil fill is no big deal, just make sure there is none in the radiator or in the sump.
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  8. #8
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    Oct 2006
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    I haven't cleaned the carb in the year and a half I've owned it. Heaven only knows when it was cleaned last. Guess its time to pick up a rebuild kit and learn about Webber carbs.
    Jim

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Vinalhaven, ME
    Posts
    569

    Default

    Jim,

    It may not need a rebuild yet. Here are some questions:

    1. Are you running dry gas? Water in the gas will hinder idling.

    1. What carb is it? Zenith? Weber?

    2. The carboned up plugs tell you it's running pretty rich [unless they're really oily and wet, and then of course, it's oil]. So first try new plugs and see if the car will idle - unlikely but possible

    3. I'd suggest gapping the points, but you don't have them. Can't help you with your distributor.

    4. Have you checked for a vacuum leaK? With the motor running spray WD-40 around the intake manifold, carb body where it meets the manifold, top of the carb. If you have a Weber, spray around the throttle shaft at the butterfly, too. If the rpm rise, then that's where you have a vacuum leak. The mixture will be screwed up and the car will run either too lean or rich. Given your plugs, I'd suggest it's running rich.

    5. If you have a Weber, it's not uncommon for the idle jet to become clogged. They are more sensitive to clogging than the Solex or the Zenith. Remove the choke cable at the connector and open up the top cover [4 screws] and pull it off to one side. The float will come up with it. Look at the carb bowl. Do you see bits of red or brown stuff in the gas? If so, then mop up the gas with a towel. Then take a thin flathead screwdriver and unscrew the two tiny jets, right and left side. One is straight up, the other is angled. They're small brass items - be careful, don't drop them. Then take some carb cleaner and spray through the jet. Reassemble. Then remove the spring loaded mixture screw at the back of the car, and the main jet that is located on the valve cover side of the carb, on the side of the carb body. Spray them and the orifices, too. You have now cleared out the crud that can block the idle jet.

    6. If you have a Zenith, then the problem is usually associated with a vacuum leak at the carb body top and carb body. Air is being sucked in and screwing up the mixture. So you fiddle with the mixture, enrichen it, and then it won't idle or run very well. You can sand down the top of the carb [gently!] with a piece of sandpaper and sheet of glass to assure evenness. Reassemble and it should work fine.

    Good luck!

    Jeff
    Jeff Aronson
    Vinalhaven, ME 04863
    '66 Series II-A SW 88"
    '66 Series II-A HT 88"
    '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Aronson
    Jim,

    It may not need a rebuild yet. Here are some questions:

    1. Are you running dry gas? Water in the gas will hinder idling.

    1. What carb is it? Zenith? Weber?

    2. The carboned up plugs tell you it's running pretty rich [unless they're really oily and wet, and then of course, it's oil]. So first try new plugs and see if the car will idle - unlikely but possible

    3. I'd suggest gapping the points, but you don't have them. Can't help you with your distributor.

    4. Have you checked for a vacuum leaK? With the motor running spray WD-40 around the intake manifold, carb body where it meets the manifold, top of the carb. If you have a Weber, spray around the throttle shaft at the butterfly, too. If the rpm rise, then that's where you have a vacuum leak. The mixture will be screwed up and the car will run either too lean or rich. Given your plugs, I'd suggest it's running rich.

    5. If you have a Weber, it's not uncommon for the idle jet to become clogged. They are more sensitive to clogging than the Solex or the Zenith. Remove the choke cable at the connector and open up the top cover [4 screws] and pull it off to one side. The float will come up with it. Look at the carb bowl. Do you see bits of red or brown stuff in the gas? If so, then mop up the gas with a towel. Then take a thin flathead screwdriver and unscrew the two tiny jets, right and left side. One is straight up, the other is angled. They're small brass items - be careful, don't drop them. Then take some carb cleaner and spray through the jet. Reassemble. Then remove the spring loaded mixture screw at the back of the car, and the main jet that is located on the valve cover side of the carb, on the side of the carb body. Spray them and the orifices, too. You have now cleared out the crud that can block the idle jet.

    6. If you have a Zenith, then the problem is usually associated with a vacuum leak at the carb body top and carb body. Air is being sucked in and screwing up the mixture. So you fiddle with the mixture, enrichen it, and then it won't idle or run very well. You can sand down the top of the carb [gently!] with a piece of sandpaper and sheet of glass to assure evenness. Reassemble and it should work fine.

    Good luck!

    Jeff
    Yeah, what he said.

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