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Thread: Project: Wilks

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Centre PA
    Posts
    174

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    Quote Originally Posted by 01001010
    Also, how do I identify if this engine is a 5-bearing or not? Here's a shot of the numbers on the block...
    A 5 bearing engine will have extra webbing cast into the block just above the oil pan.

    Like this: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...ol-series.aspx
    99 D1
    73 Series III 88"
    95 RRC LWB

  2. #12

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    Thank you sven!

    Do those two different variations even apply to the Diesels?


    Tonight, I took the rear brakes and hubs off WITHOUT braking any bolts! Eureka!! Soon that rear axle will be off. Actually, I think I may have to remove the engine/trans/TC first since I'm afraid that all the frontal weight will make the frame pivot foward right off the stands...lol

    I really think I'm going to go with a Sals rear now (after all the reading and comparing I've done).

    After I get the bulkhead off, I should have a bare frame soon.

  3. #13

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    Ok, so before I begin to prepare the engine for removal (draining fluids. loosening) I would like to get it to start and run ONCE. I started to bleed by the filter, and moved my way over to the Distributor pump. I loosened the bleed screw on the pump body and the moved to the one on te control cover. Once loosened, I began to pump using the level and nothing came out. So I then loosened one of the injector fittingsand discovered that nothing came out when I pumped.
    Has anyone discovered problems with the distributor pump at the control cover area? Any common problems in this area?




  4. #14

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    Well,
    I got all the bleeding points to bleed and still no engine start. I took all the injector pipes off to make sure none of them were clogged. Earlier I did not think about having to turn the engine over to see any fuel squirt from the injector pipes...so a quick browse through the forums led me to the procedure.

    Still no engine start and I'm stumped... Its got fuel and the battery has juice to crank. Then I thought...Air...

    I put my hand on the intake manifold while my brother in law cranked the ignition. I didnt feel any pull! I was boggled. How could this be?...

    After removing the valve cover, I found my answer...






    So after a quick look through the "Spare" parts provided, I found a single set of these...



    Go figure! I had to drain all of the excess diesel that flooded in the engine. Luckily, there's a bleed valve for this process too! I LOVE this engine!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

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    Glad to see you've got the engine issue worked out...Just a "heads-up" for you: A 109 with a 2.25 diesel will probably go as fast WITHOUT those push rods as it will WITH them.

    I've got a 109 with a 2.5 NA diesel fitted and it's difficult to overtake the street sweeper WHILE HE'S SWEEPING THE STREETS! I don't imagine that the 2.25 diesel will do any better.

    The thing these engines DO have going for them is their extreme simplicity and phenominal reliability. I've put on at least 1500 off-road miles in the remote corners of the Anza-Borrego Desert with my 109 and never had to walk home.

    These diesels will not take you anywhere fast, but they will take you anywhere!

    Keep up the good work on that 109
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  6. #16

    Default

    Thanks Mark!

    I'm going to try cleaning the pushrods, putting them in and seeing if that'll get the engine to go. I hope thats the only thing missing. The engine rocks a little when cranking so there's definitely a crankshaft and pistons in there..lol

  7. #17

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    Work continued today with cleaning and installing the push rods. After cranking it a few times it just wouldnt go...so I decided to remove the head and see just what was going on in there.

    I found the following...

    • Several of the head bolts were way under-spec and came off quite easy
    • The fowardmost tappet assembly is damaged

    • The block desperately needs a flush
    • The distributor pump is loose


    On the plus side,

    The cylinder walls look fantastic and the head is in great shape.


    Since I'm going to have to get in there, I've decided to just do an engine overhaul. Might as well rebuild it while im in there. But that will be happening at a much later time. As of now, engine work is done and I will continue to move foward and finish removing everything from the frame.

  8. #18

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    Also, It's nice going from working on a V8 to one of these.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Motta Sant'anastasia Italy
    Posts
    258

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    J/01001010,
    Good luck with your rebuild/restore.

    and there are only 10 types of people when it comes to binary, those who understand it and those who don't.

    -Stacy

  10. #20

    Default

    haha...thanks Stacy.

    Moving foward tonight. Bulkhead should be off by the end of the day hopefully.

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