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Thread: Installing the hard top for the first time

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    32

    Default Installing the hard top for the first time

    Hey folks, Its getting to be winter here in Maryland and that means I need to put the top back on my IIA 88 (the motorcycle isn't great in snow).
    Here's my question: How?
    Specifically, how do the 4 mounting studs/washers/bumpers go? What is so special about the rubber bumpers on the rear studs and if they're so special, then why are they NLA? Any suitable alternatives?
    Lastly, I have all new gaskets, courtesy of our hosts. They seem an extra bit long-by inches. Is any of this normal? Do I just notch, nick and nip them all to fit (like around the doors & mounting studs).
    Surprising, the green bible doesn't offer any good pics, and while the RN catalogue helps, all of the part numbers that they sent me differ from the catalogue.

    Thanks in advance....JN

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Ok,

    There are lots of seals. There are two main seals that go between the galvanized bed trim and the window panels. These seals are about 1" tall x 3/8" wide x several feet long. These seals go into the channel on the bottom of the window panels, with the long side of the seal aimed down. You will probably have to scrap out all the old seal crap from the channels, then glue in the new seals with some clear silicone or similar sealant. These seals should only need trimming on the length. They do not need to be trimmed to fit around the studs (they should fit). The studs have two washers, each washer having a step in it (two different diameters). The smaller diameter of the large washer fits into the round galvanized hole. This lines up the stud in the center of the hole. The stud is held in place by the two washers one on top and one on the bottom, with a nut on each side. Then the window panels have an angle type bracket that mounts to the top of the stud with another nut. All of this can be tricky, as it is necessary to get the seals to seal without being too loose or too tight. So I usually just lightly tighten the window securing nuts until the top is in place. Next you want to make sure that you have the correct L-shaped seals for the top of the window panels (there is a left and right side). These are secured with caulk if you wish, although they will stay in place without it. Start at the corner of each L gasket and fit it into the window panel. Trim each end to fit as you get there. Install a windshield gasket and bolt up the top. With the top in place and several bolts holding it, you can now tighten the window panel stud nuts making sure that the roof stays lined up. Watch for windshield gasket shift. Also you'll want to install the rubber corner brackets before you put the roof on, if you have them. I think these pieces are NLA, but they are the little gaskets that fit into the top of the door sealing faces (they are about 2" x 2" angle pieces).
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Catawba River Basin NC
    Posts
    80

    Default

    What is so special about the rubber bumpers on the rear studs and if they're so special, then why are they NLA? Any suitable alternatives?
    The rubber washers are for a bit a cushion to the fixing points and allow some flex between the sides and the tub.... If unable to source the rubber bumpers,,, a couple of rubber sealing washers or the like should make a suitable replacement.


    Lastly, I have all new gaskets, courtesy of our hosts. They seem an extra bit long-by inches. Is any of this normal? Do I just notch, nick and nip them all to fit (like around the doors & mounting studs).
    The OEM side seals will need to be trimmed to length and glued to the window sides. With the ones I recently installed the "lower seal" between the tub and window side has for lack of a better term a "tear-drop shape" and the larger rounded part sets on the tub capping with the lip glued to the window side. You could notch the seal at the rear corners, but all I did was tuck it to the corner and work it around the fixing points when I mounted the window sides.

    The seals that goes between the top and the window sides have a corner formed in them and they fit down in like a square channel and are also need to be trimmed to length.

    In addtion it goes also with the door seals.... that they are sized long and will need trimmed to length glued and riveted in place.

    Dave

    00 SII
    74 SIII

  4. #4

    Default

    Right on time - I'm about to put a hardtop on my exMoD 109 for the first time! I've got 110 2-dr roof-sides, can anyone tell me if there are any Series vs. Defender differences in the roof-side to roof seal? Nothing is noted in the RN catalog...

    Thanks,

    Tom P.
    Last edited by luckyjoe; 12-16-2006 at 08:26 AM.
    Tom P.
    1965 exMoD 109
    1995 RRC LWB w/EAS

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