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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    289

    Default Squeaky/Creaking Steering Wheel Shaft - How to fix?

    So the steering shaft (basically the section right below the steering wheel and right above where the shaft disappears into the dash) has started to squeak/creak really really loud to the point where its embarrasing making turns...especially in parking lots. Its pretty ridiculous actually.

    I took the steering wheel completly off, but the actual steering shaft area that is producing the noise is not accessable from up top or from outside the metal shaft it resides in. Or mabye it is and I'm not doing something right?

    I tried getting some WD40 to leak down the shaft but to no avail.

    Can anyone give me any clues on how to tackle this problem?
    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,351

    Default

    I presume you are running a steering column that is either late IIA or SIII vintage. If that is the case there should be a small bearing at the top of the column tube that support the column itself. The other support is the two bearings in the steering box at the bottom. If it is a SIII column you will also have the steering lock next to the ignition barrel.

    Given this assumption you need to do three things.
    1. Make sure the steering box is topped off with oil. This is no cost, easy and can't hurt.
    2. Remove the steering wheel. Check for signs of galling where the steering wheel rotates. Now take that can of WD40 and out it in your tool box for a rainy day. Run a little gear oil down the inside of the column or at worst a squirt of PB Blaster. Make sure that top bearing gets a good soaking.
    3. Remove the steering lock and check for galling. Lubricate everything and reassemble.

    4. Go slightly deaf and ignore it until something breaks.

    Cheers
    Gregor

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,643

    Default

    I had this problem once in my 69 109 and sprayed WD-40 up between the steering column and the collar that the steering wheel attaches to. If I remember correctly it didn't fix it immediately but lessened the noise and then a day or so later the noise went away completely and hasn't come back.

    Brent
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    289

    Default

    This is where the squeaking is coming from....its basically inside the metal shaft I am pointing at. I guess I'll try to squirt more WD or PB blaster down past the bearing in the steering wheel. Is it easy to remove the bearing?





    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

  5. #5

    Default

    might be the horn contact

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by leafsprung
    might be the horn contact
    Already went through all of that. The sqeaking is coming from further below the horn...almost where the steering shaft disappears into the dash.
    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,643

    Default

    I sprayed the WD-40 up into the collar that is further up from your finger towards the steering wheel. I would give 'break free' a try and spray a fair amount of it up there while turning the wheel back and forth. I know that someone will tell you how that won't do a damn thing but that is what I did and it worked - potentially I had a different squeak or squeal but this fix is very easy and simple to try.

    If you are not familiar with break free it is available at gun stores.

    Brent

    Put some paper towels on the floor of the Rover to catch any drips
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,351

    Default

    The trouble is that there is nothing to make contact inside the column at that point. On the late IIAs columns the steering shaft is supported by the bearing you can see at the very top of the column; on the early IIAs it is a bushing. After that there is nothing until you get to the bearing at the top of the box.

    THis leads to one of two conclusions:
    1. There is something that has worked its way into the shaft at that point.
    2. Something is rubbing and because of the design of the column and it's support it sounds like it is coming from the point you describe.

    From memory you can just pull that top bearing out and replace it. Make sure the preload spring is still good while your there. Is there any radial or axial play is the steering wheel? Another cheap thing to check is that the column mountings are tight, both at the bulkhead and in the engine bay.

    One from left field here. Have you lubricated the indicator doohicky as mine sqeaked something fearsome until I sprayed some lube into the wheel housing?

    Squeaks are rather hard to diagnose over the interweb.

    Cheers
    Gregor

    PS. Your truck looks great with the truck cab.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,716

    Default

    Mine used to squeek. Found it to be the cancelling wheel on the turn signal stalk. Might be worth a shot to take the unit off and see if it goes away.
    Jason T.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Wilmington, NC
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LaneRover
    I sprayed the WD-40 up into the collar that is further up from your finger towards the steering wheel. I would give 'break free' a try and spray a fair amount of it up there while turning the wheel back and forth. I know that someone will tell you how that won't do a damn thing but that is what I did and it worked - potentially I had a different squeak or squeal but this fix is very easy and simple to try.

    If you are not familiar with break free it is available at gun stores.

    Brent

    Put some paper towels on the floor of the Rover to catch any drips
    I was going to spray up in the collar...but I ended up taking the entire steering wheel off. Tried spraying WD40 directly down the shaft....still squeaking. I guess I will have to somehow get that bearing out?
    1971 Series IIa Hybrid: 2.5L MILSPEC 5-Main Bearing Engine|Turner Engineering Performance Head w/ oversized hardened steel valves & phase shift/increased lift cam|LT77 Tranny/LT230 Transfer Case|11mm Ignition Wires/Super Coil|Jacobs Ignition/Petronix Ignitor|D90 Axles|Galvy Frame|Old Man Emu Coils|Cust Rear/Side Fuel Tanks|Cust Drive Shafts|

 

 

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