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Thread: Oil cooler line install

  1. #1

    Default Oil cooler line install

    I am in the process on replacing the upper oil cooler line on my '96 and want to see if any one has a suggestion on how to remove the connection to the oil cooler. I am afraid that if I crank down on the nut,which seems to be seized on, I may break the oil cooler mounting bracket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    57

    Default Nut Cracker

    cltrover,
    Start spraying und praying with Liquid wrench, or some other rust inhibitor. Spray every day for a week and make sure to use a line wrench!!!! Pray to the Land Rover Gods every day until you try to loosen, if it come off offer a Guinness to the Rover Gods, if it doesnt and twists off and self destructs, call AAA and find an Indie Rover shop!!!!

    Good luck,
    Jack of Bavaria
    Last edited by JSalyer; 01-05-2007 at 12:15 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Cardiff, UK
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Yep - spray and pray. That just about sums it up! Had the same problem with mine and, without wanting to depress you too much, managed to twist the entire spigot off the cooler. Will LR ever learn that steel unions onto aluminium spigots just aren't a good idea?! All just part of the quirky charm of Land-Rover ownership, I guess... A but of carefully applied heat might help?

    Best of luck, anyway - let us know if you have any success!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    290

    Default

    I second the "gas wrench" method. Start off with a simple propane torch, then move to MAPP gas, then finally, the Oxy-Acetylene (trying your luck after each).

    Applying the aforementioned "spray" while the fitting is warm can often help it to penetrate. (Be careful it's not too hot when you spray, or you may have a fire! Be sure the Home Owner's insurance is up to date!)

    I had a similar episode with my 300 Tdi crank pulley. I used a 24" breaker bar and jumped on it with all my weight (plus the weight of the beer in my hand) and it still wouldn't move. Fast forward four hours later and the Oxy-Acetylene heated bolt finally broke free after being heated cherry red and the full wrath of my rage was applied to the 24" breaker bar. I have a scar for life from the tiny radiator shroud stud that took a sizable chunk of my forearm for my trouble...

    The manual states this should be tightened to 80-some odd ft/lb AND THEN turned 90 degrees! This is an insane amount of torque, equal to about 2.5 times the total available torque of the engine! I just don't get Land-Rover sometimes...
    Photographer / writer for LRM (until they screwed me).
    1995 110 Regular
    300Tdi, Series and Defender repairs in CT

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