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Thread: Starter trouble

  1. #11
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    N. York
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    By tightening the brass nut on the brass stud I ended up turning the stud within the starter itself. If I recall correctly doing that broke the connection within the starter, so I had to have the starter re-rebuilt, Then- in my infinite stupidity I did it again- THAT time I managed to figure out what was going on and why I was going nuts screwing around with starters all the time.

    {edit}
    I went outside and took a quick pic:

    in a nutchell:
    Just make sure you hold nut B with a wrench when tightening nut A down.
    Last edited by yorker; 12-18-2006 at 03:41 PM.
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  2. #12

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    yorker, thank you for taking the time to clarify for me and I am sorry to make it so painful to get there. I was thinking that it is something that is different. The post or stud on my starter is actually a little wobbly, I was thinking that maybe it had somehow backed out of the motor a bit and the connection was bad. At any rate I think my issue is the starter but I am going to double check by running power straight to the starter and then checking the ground as well.

    thanks again for the help.
    Greg

  3. #13
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    Nov 2006
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    N. York
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    Well if all else fails you can use the crank to start it! I did for years- and would you believe it is a great way to meet women?


    "is that an old Range Rover? Do you always have to start it that way?"
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    36

    Default Starter experience

    Man oh Man Yorker....I did the same thing!!! on a new ACR motor! I sent the starter off to STAR Auto Electric, he called back and said he would fix it for shipping costs, but if I wanted it done right, I would have him rebuild it, I saw what crappy job was done on the original starter when I took it apart to see if I could fix it, basically a "paint" job on an old starter. I had them rebuild it and have been VERY happy with their work.

    Just FYI:

    Telephone: (866) 969-STAR(7827) Toll Free
    Telephone: (626) 357-2333
    Fax # (626) 357-2334



    Email:starautoelectric@aol.com

    Chuck

  5. #15

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    thanks guys. how tough are old rovers to hand crank? I am not weak but I have trouble turning mine with enough speed or force to get anywhere. I am also leary of it firing back on me and breaking an arm. I had an old harley that would do that and I damn near broke both of my ankles. Great information on the starter rebuild. I have both the old starter and the 'new one' that I think is causing me a lot of trouble at the moment.

  6. #16
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    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
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    295

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    The series trucks are fairly easy to crank start- this is of course assuming it is in good tune, and the carburettor is full of fuel...

    I hand-cranked mine 1/2 way across North Africa, and that was a freshly re-built engine. A couple turns and it spins fairly easily, if it is in good tune less than three revs will have it running.

    My procedure for a cold truck is to pop the hood and pump fuel up to the carb. Make sure the key is on and set the choke. Start spinning! It helps to have another person on the throttle and choke to get the revs up and keep it running, and a hand throttle helps if a helper is not around.

    B
    Naturally, bad timing, bad fuel, no fuel, low battery, weak spark etc. all make the job harder...

    I went through three starters and four solenoids before I had it sorted. I finally ended up with a mean green starter and a Kenworth starter solenoid. NOW, it starts with the key!
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    613

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    Quote Originally Posted by gfaherty3
    thanks guys. how tough are old rovers to hand crank? I am not weak but I have trouble turning mine with enough speed or force to get anywhere. I am also leary of it firing back on me and breaking an arm. I had an old harley that would do that and I damn near broke both of my ankles. Great information on the starter rebuild. I have both the old starter and the 'new one' that I think is causing me a lot of trouble at the moment.


    As J!m said, they're not hard, just make sure it's on and choked (and in neutral with the parking brake on! ).

    Don't close your hand on the crank, ie, don't wrap your thumb around, you want to leave your thumb alongside your index finger.... if it kicks, you want it to be able to kick out of your hand without taking your thumb off.... the starter dog on a Series is designed to kick the crank handle forward and out when it starts, and should keep the kickback injuries to a minimum, but, you really want to take any safety precautions you can....
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  8. #18
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    "Don't close your hand on the crank, ie, don't wrap your thumb around, you want to leave your thumb alongside your index finger"



    X2!!
    other than that if it is in good tune it is easy to do, the first crank to get up momentum is the hardest. You won't break yout arm but you can dislocate your thumb if you wrap it around in the normal fashion.
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

  9. #19
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    Location
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    Wow, I've been quoted loudly!
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  10. #20
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    Ha! I remember trying to throw my starting handle through my radiator* in an insane fit of anger and pain after making the above error. Was not a fun day and took a long time before I could use my thumb again.

    *thank god for the metal IIa grille
    1965 SIIa 88",1975 Ex-MOD 109/Ambulance, 1989 RRC, blah, blah, blah...

    Land Rover UK Forums

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