Just leave that transmission in place!
Thankfully, you DO NOT have to remove the entire floor if all you want to remove is the transfer box. (Yes, even with a welded in cross member as I have)
It is a bit of a job, but I had the low range gear sieze onto the high range gear/shaft assembly (which meant I had full high-range, but no low range because both gears mesh and one spins on the other [normally] in low range as you all well know)
SO, here's the procedure:
1) drain the transfer box and remove the bottom pan and the O/D-PTO cover from the rear.
2) Remove the drive shafts, entire brake assembly from the back of the box, speedo cable, linkages etc... Everything attached to the outside of the transfer box as normal. The flat floor pieces MAY have to come out to help with this (and they may not).
3) place a floor jack under the gear box and lift it slightly
4) remove the mounts from the frame (and possibly from the transfer box as well- I'm not 100% on this as it has been a while) for clearance
5) and here's the real trick to it... Remove the fixing bolt/plate which holds the interediate shaft in the center of the transfer box. It slides out the back; then remove the intermediate gear itself to allow access to the "impossible" bolts which hold the transfer box to the gear box. (there is no critical shimming of this gear or tricky set-up, so even if you re-install the original, just replace all the parts as they were. AND if you DO re-use the old parts, check that shaft itself- if worn, replace it.)
6) remove the rest of the bolts (now that you can get to them all) and wrastle that sucker out... It goes rearward, and then must be rotated, tipped and then crash down on your chest, which should knock the wind out of you. If the wind is not knocked out of you, replace the unit and try again. Liberal use of profanity is encouraged, and may actually help the process...
I developed this technique out of desperation, and it worked gret for me. And my cross member is welded in place. Unless you need to do clutch work, there is no need to remove the transmission and seat box (or shifter, or clutch slave etc...).
I have personally done this, so it's no myth. This not "easy"; however it should be much less time than removing the floor and seat box, which, if it has not been removed recently, you will find can take the better part of a day on its own.
Obviously, re-instalation of the new box requires you to remove that intermediate gear assembly from the box to bolt it back in, so don't forget to order a new pan gasket (and PTO gasket if this is installed on the new box).
PS: replace the transmission output seal while it is staring you in the face. This is why your 'tranny is always lowon oil, and the transfer box is always over-filled with oil, which is why your parking brake gets soaked with oil, which is why the parking brake won't work.
Have fun!
Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.
1995 110 Regular