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Thread: New Rover owner...a few problems

  1. #1

    Default New Rover owner...a few problems

    Hi, just joined up. I have a '91 Range Rover that I just purchased day before yesterday:




    It has a few issues that I'm working my way through and I have some questions.

    The CEL is on and I have to get that taken care of before I can smog it. It's throwing code 45, for the right O2 sensor. I first checked the wires and found the plug seemed a bit loose. Pushed it together till it clicked, cleared the code and went home happy. Yesterday morning the CEL came on again, code 45 again. I got to poking around under the hood and found a vacuum line that had been chewed through by a 'possum that took up residence under the hood before I bought it. (The PO had to repair some chewed wires so he thought he'd missed something, ergo the CEL...) I fixed the line thinking that the vacuum leak was triggering the code. Cleared the code, went home happy. This morning it came back yet again.

    Now my question...this thing has a fairly bad exhaust leak where the right side manifold connects to the exhaust pipe (the pipe has separated from the flange...I'll have to pull it and weld it) Is it coincidence that the exhaust leak is on the same side as the sensor that's causing a code, or can an exhaust leak ahead of the sensor trigger a code from the sensor?

    Maybe it's simply time for new sensors. It's got 184K miles and I don't know if they're original or not...

    Now on to my other question: I get an annoying vibration/rattle from under the front of the vehicle, I've determined that it's caused by the front driveshaft rubbing on the sway bar. How much clearence is there supposed to be between the two, and what could have caused the front axle to move in such a way as to cause this interference? I've jacked it up and shaken and wiggled and inspected and things seem tight, bushings seem fairly firm...I'm thinking that in the short run I'll simply shim the sway bar down and away from the driveshaft, but this has me bugged.

    Overall I'm pretty happy with it, for a grand I couldn't pass it up. Needs a heater core and they seem to be pricey, not to mention a blast to install. Lots of little issues to take care of but it's quite drivable as is so I can take care of things as time permits.

    This is my first Range Rover, but not my first Rover. I have a '61 SII Land Rover as well as several other English vehicles. I'm no stranger to a wrench and am not afraid to tackle anything on the vehicle. In fact, I'm a moderator on another automotive forum and spend a lot of my time dispensing advice...now the tables are turned and I'm the one doing the asking!
    Last edited by TigerDan; 01-03-2007 at 08:57 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    twisties~South Lake Tahoe tarmac rallye style
    Posts
    733

    Default

    Welcome to the RN forum! Nice looking RRC.
    Cheers, Thompson
    Art & Creative Director, Rovers Magazine
    Rovers North, Inc.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    Replace the sensor. For the cost, it's worth it if you do your own work.

    The truck is riding quite high, which may explain the rubbing sway bar. I have my rear sway shimmed to clear the tank guard- no issues with performance.

    Oh, yeah. Fix the exhaust leak, although I don't think this is why its throwing a code...
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  4. #4

    Default

    Okay, thanks. I'm fixing the leak today, as well as shimming up the front bar. I'll order new O2 sensors.

    I thought it seemed to ride a bit high, and the nose is higher than the tail Perhaps the springs were replaced with taller ones as I don't see any other evidence of a lift kit, The tires are oversize and the fronts rub on the radius arms in tight turns, perhaps there were other clearence issues that neccessitated the lift. The PO lives out of state and I haven't talked to him, I bought it from a friend of his down here who was acting as an agent fror him. Perhaps a phone call is in order...
    Last edited by TigerDan; 01-04-2007 at 06:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    57

    Talking RR

    Tiger Dan,
    That truck has to have a lift(I clicked on your pick and went to your online photos) I wonder if the person installing accidentally put the front and rear springs on reversed!!?? I have never seen any lift with the front higher than rear(usually the reverse is true as the rears are for overload to some degree). See if you can see any decals on the springs still, or take a flashlight and see if you can see a faint grey number(ie 762, 764 etc). I do see the shocks are yellow, indicating OME or Bilsteins. I'll bet money you have a set of rear springs in the front or the person put rear MD's in the front. Anyway get this sorted out, nose up aint cool. Get the springs sorted out and I'll bet your driveshaft issue disappears.

    Also, anytime you have an exhaust manifold leaking or cracked get it fixed ASAP, I have seen exhaust valves(in the head) burned or damaged by not properly exhausting the gasses(incorrect back pressure I think)

    Cheers,
    Jack of Bavaria

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks Jack. I did take care of the leak already and shimmed the front bar, then painted the wear marks on the bar and the driveshaft. I still have the vibration/rattle and the new paint isn't worn off so I guess that wasn't the problem after all. Still needed to be fixed though...:-D

    I'll take a close look at the springs. The nose-high attitude does indeed look strange and could contribute to some odd handling issues I'm experiencing. If I swap the springs front to rear then I can take the opportunity to really get in there and poke around; the vibration seems to come from the left front.
    1991 RRC
    1989 RRC "Parts rig"
    1961 LR SII 88"
    1967 Sunbeam Tiger
    1970 Mercedes 250C
    1989 Ford Ranger 5.0 H.O.
    1968 Ford F250 CS

  7. #7

    Default

    Dan -- I've been having big trouble sealing the right (passenger side) manifold to downpipe exhaust connection ever since I've owned my 1990 RR County. It leaks on the edge closest to the battery. The OEM washers had been left out of the stud & nut assembly, so I don't know what they are supposed to look like: I ordered new genuine nuts & washers, but the ones I received from RN weren't correct. I've been using a standard 8M hardened metric lockwasher. Please advise, anyone.

    Also, I've had difficulty getting the gasket over the first 2mm of the studs without damage -- one of the studs is slightly bent I supposed. It should fit easily. If I could identify the bent stud, any advice on a gentle tweak so I dont crack it, anyone? I don't want to get into replacing those if I can avoid it, but perhaps this is the source of the chronic problem. Please advise, anyone.

    Thanks,
    TJ 1990 RR County

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TigerDan
    ...the vibration seems to come from the left front.
    Check the CV joint and associated parts on that side.

    I had bad splines on mine (24 spline HD 110/130 set-up) and replaced the enire axle/CV/drive flange assembly on that side.

    Also, be sure the end float is correct for the axle stub sticking through the drive flange (on both sides actually). If the float is too great, the CV axis of rotation will not be alligned with the swivel pins axis, leading to a very disturbing (and ultimately expensive) noise. This is most prevelant while turning, but can be heard all the time if the wear has already occured.

    Just a thought for you...
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

  9. #9

    Default

    Thanks, as it happens I was in there today as the left wheel bearing was a tad loose. I don't know how much axle end play there's supposed to be, but I'd guess I've got at least .060 maybe more. The splines are a tad sloppy as well (on both sides) and the majority of the slop seems to be in the drive flanges so it looks like those are on my soon-to-be-replaced list.

    Jack;
    I got underneath and took a good close look at the springs today. Here's what I found:

    No visible ID on the front springs, but with the vehicle at rest on all fours they measure 14.5 inches tall. The rears measure 12.5 and have a tag on each with OME-764 printed on them. Is this a front or rear spring?

    Rear shocks are Bilsteins and appear to have been on there for a while, fronts are OME (Old Man Emu?!) and appear fairly recent.
    1991 RRC
    1989 RRC "Parts rig"
    1961 LR SII 88"
    1967 Sunbeam Tiger
    1970 Mercedes 250C
    1989 Ford Ranger 5.0 H.O.
    1968 Ford F250 CS

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    295

    Default

    I don't have my manual handy, but I am quite sure 0.060" is over SIX TIMES the maximum end float (maybe 12 times over), and likely a good cause for your noise. The bad splines don't help, but usually its the rears that make all the drive line clunking...

    When you order the RN replacement splines (as shown on this board recently) ask for an assortment of shims and new snap rings. Use a magnetic-base dial indicator and check the end float (you need a bolt to go into the axle end to pull and push as you check).

    I think the end float is supposed to be 0.002"-0.005" but I'm not 100% sure on that. When you call RN they can provide you with the data you need.

    If you don't have an indicator handy, set the end float as tight as you can by hand and still get the snap ring in securely. It could be written as 0-0.005", but if it's actually zero,you can't secure the snap ring properly...

    Obviuosly, check both sides and adjust. The new drive flanges will require re-shimming.
    Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.

    1995 110 Regular

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