Body parts powder coating

[Eric W S]

Pop onto the Chicago Land Rover Club and ask for recommendations. Most of the folks are in the burbs. George, the Webmaster, has two shops he referred me to in the north and west burbs. The one in Bensenville was the high buck shop but they deal mostly with high dollar restoration work. There was another that his son used and they did a very good yet affordable job.

My guy is in the city. He'd be a pain to travel to. But I gotta say, he does some really fine work. I mean he is basically giving me a 6k paint job for half the price. Primes 2 coats epoxy, seals, blocks 2 coats base and 2 clear. I really was hesitant about the base clear, but man it's dead on and its awesome.

Make sure you stick to a good paint. Dupont, HS, or PPG.

[I Leak Oil]

Our customers at work powdercoat large panels that flex all the time with no ill affects. You can get different powders and apply in different thickness ranges. A rover body would powdercoat just fine if prepped properly, just as a paint job would.

With that said, it is easier and cheaper to spray it.....
Jason T.

[thixon]

Eric,

Just to be clear (no pun intended),

I'm not against base coat/clear coat on a rover. I just think it would be too big a project for a first timer spraying his truck himself in the garage. If the shop of your choice wants to go that direction, let 'em do what their comfortable with.

I'm also not against a nice paint job on a rover. I like looking at trucks that others have made really nice, its just not my bag for my own. I'm the guy that drives the concours people nuts. If I could afford a Ferrari 250 GT, I'd drive it everyday, rain or shine!

[Eric W S]

Eric,

Just to be clear (no pun intended),

I'm not against base coat/clear coat on a rover. I just think it would be too big a project for a first timer spraying his truck himself in the garage. If the shop of your choice wants to go that direction, let 'em do what their comfortable with.

I'm also not against a nice paint job on a rover. I like looking at trucks that others have made really nice, its just not my bag for my own. I'm the guy that drives the concours people nuts. If I could afford a Ferrari 250 GT, I'd drive it everyday, rain or shine!

I think he is having the work done for him though. I agree that professional grade paint and materials REQUIRE the right equipment, knowledge and tools.

I read the OSHA warnings on one primer years ago and it mentioned that you could get Lung Cancer from using the wrong breathing apperatus. Scared me silly. I like painting just don't trust myself enough not to do something ignorant and deadly!

Power to ya! Use and enjoy what ya got. I live in the rust belt so I am forced to keep a fresh coat of paint or have to deal with rust/oxiadation. It sucks. I probably would let the paint fade and wear if not for my location.

[109 Pretender]

Another consideration not mentioned, is that in my experience powder coating doesn't have the UV inhibitors that quality urethanes will have. So it'll probably fade fast - which you might want... When I mounted my Wedco cans they faded in less than 3 months. I reshot them w/Imron - won't fade for around 30 years or so judging by all the other stuff I've painted in my lifetime.
Big + for the safety mentioned above. Imron & all other isocyanate based urethanes must be used very carefully. No respirator cartridge will work - you should only use a supplied air unit (expensive).
Touchup will be more than difficult w/powdercoat as mentioned.
I'd stick w/auto paint all things considered - including cost!

[thixon]

109 Pretender,

I'm glad you brought up the safety issue. I did those who read my post a disservice. When I mentioned a "respirator" I was referring to a forced air unit, not a cartridge type like those sold at lowes or home depot. Sorry to all for not being clear enough.

Mine is a hobby air, and can be had for $500 or so. I considered the expense to be sort of a cost of participation.

Thanks for bringing that up, I don't want to be responsible for getting anyone hurt because I did'nt explain things.

And since you've brought it up, everytime I've ever bought auto paint at the paint shop, I've wondered how they get away with selling paint with iso's to the average joe. I also noticed that my local O'reillys is pushing nason auto paint.

[CliftonRover]

I am starting to build my 8th rover and throught the progress I have learned a little about what works and what doesn't. for the axles, firewally and non-galv. steel parts the commercial rustoleum red metal primer then the commercial black is your best bet for the price. you can brush the red on and either spray or bruch the black. then for the body inside and out I use a flexible spray on paint you can rent the equipment, buy it or pay someone to do it. Avoid metal flake, I used it on two trucks, if you think you are ging to need to repare the paint the the metal flake will never match up correctly and you will have to spray the whole truck over. one of the trucks I used it on is mainly a long hauler hiway rig so it doesn't see much trail use and it did come out very nice.

[onecross]

Another consideration not mentioned, is that in my experience powder coating doesn't have the UV inhibitors that quality urethane will have...

I was going to powder coat my Land Rover and had a UV protective powder picked out but because it would be difficult to repair the coating on panels i opted to only coat the frame, axles wheels and some other smaller parts.