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Thread: Won't Start

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    10

    Default Won't Start

    Alright, I'll try to keep this simple. The last several days my Disco II will start right up half the time, and the other half it won't. Until today, the times it wouldn't start right away, I would wait a few minutes and try again and it would start fine. When it doesn't start, it turns and turns like it's trying to start but doesn't fire up. After a few seconds of holding the key in III position the "turning" sound of the engine begins to slow and I let off. I noticed a little corrosion on the positive connector to the battery, cleaned and lubed it, but that hasn't seemed to make a difference. This morning it started fine when I left for work, but now it's time to go home and it won't start. The "turning" sound of the engine has slowed enough that I know I'm beginning to drain the battery. Any suggestions???

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Hey pj, I'm having more or less the same issue w/ my 99 DII. My symptoms have progressivly gotten worse...in addition to not starting at all now the green "mode" and "sport" lights are flashing. I've been chasing this for several weeks w/ no concrete answer to the cause other than it could be one of several things...possibilities include bad battery, bad MAF, bad crankshaft position sensor, bad XYZ gear shift switch, low transmision fluid. The one item that continues to come up is the battery and it's condition...most say that the rover ECUs are easily effected by low voltage which can cause all kinds of crazy problems that don't seem to make sense. One forum suggested that anything under 14v while running could cause ECU problems. Another forum suggested installing a battery w/ a minimum 1000cca.

    In my case the truck turns fine but won't start, M&S lights are flashing, 3-amigos are lit-up but when I hook-up my brand new shiney code reader there are no codes reported. As I mentioned, I've been chasing this for several weeks...thought I had it nailed down to a bad crankshaft position sensor, installed a new one and no go. My last resort is the XYZ switch but before I do I'm going back to the beginning and start by getting my battery and alternator checked to confirm that they OK. I'm thinking this would be a good place for you to start.I'll post my findings.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    426

    Default

    Parrie, unless you have the ABS amigo it won't tell you the ABS codes.
    Zack Griswold
    Photos/Sales
    http://i.imgur.com/z2wLIw6.jpg - 1995 300Tdi Disco 5 Speed

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Hey Zack, I've had all 3 amigos since I purchased the truck 2 yrs ago. Since the check engine light did not come on I assumed that the amigos came on when the PO removed the air suspension. Check engine has come on twice in the past 2 years; 1st time an O2 sensor came up and an ABS code come up once recently (i beleive the code was P1509), I cleared the code and it hasn't come back. After I extract my broken key from the ignition I'm going to start back at the beginning and confirm the battery is good, alternator is good and dbl check tranny fluid again. Any other thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Thanks Parrie, I'll give those a look. As some added info: I recently replaced the throttle body gaskets, and in the process may have not securely reconnected the Mass Air-Flow sensor so I'll give that a good check. Update soon...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    PJ, good news/bad news, finally got mine running yesterday...dbl check your battery. My battery was turning the engine fine and tested at over 12volts but apparently it was low enough to cause the ECU to go haywire. I put a fresh battery in and all is well, M&S lights went out & no check engine light. Unfortunately I developed a new problem...when I accelerate the engine rpms continually increase and will not return to idle when I let of the accelerator. It acts like the throttle body is sticking open but I can see that it is in the idle position. Not sure what the cause is. Do you have this issue?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Parrie, well, still havent been able to get it started. Glad to hear you've got yours started, bummer with the rpm issue, though. I've never had that problem myself, but I would check into replacing your throttle body potentiometer. It's not cheap, but that's what senses and regulates the throttle. It's very easy to replace, though.
    As for my battery, I had a buddy try and jump me off yesterday, but it still wouldn't start, which makes me think it's not the battery. I've never heard of a battery being bad, but still not being able to at least be jumped off. I'm still going to take the battery in to my local parts shop and have them test it, that'll be tomorrow, so I'll be able to let you know how that goes. Fingers crossed that's all it is.
    Let me know how it goes, I'll do the same.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Hey PJ, not sure what the heck is going on with mine. Up until now the thing has ran like a dream. Going to tear into the throttlebody this evening.

    I've actually had several bad batteries over the years...same thing, couldn't even be jump started. As far as LRs are concerned, from what I understand the low battery voltage causes the ECU go haywire causing the vehicle not to start. I hope a new battery does the trick for you.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Maryville, TN
    Posts
    10

    Default

    well looks like its not the battery. i bought a new one and still wont start. my buddy thinks it's a fuel issue. i really dont want to replace the pump. you know if a Disco II has a fuel filter? i keep finding sources showing it's inline but i dont think that's right.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Old Town, Maine
    Posts
    217

    Default

    The only fuel filter that I am aware of is in the tank, I think the DIs have an in-line. Have you checked the the fuel pump fuse and relay in the under-bonnet fuse box? There are several relays that are interchangable, just check the number on top of the fuel pump relay and swap it with a matching relay. If that doesn't work the next step will be to confirm that you have #1: fire, #2 fuel. Do you have a code scanner? I'm wondering if you may have some codes that could shed some light on the situation.

    My saga got a bit better...went back over the throttlebody and confirmed that it was clean and not sticking. Removed/inspected the TPS, all looked fine. Put it all back together & fired it up, perfect idle, hit the gas and it went up to +/-2200rpm but then slowely after about 45seconds the rpms dropped to about 1500 but wouldn't go any lower. I'm leaning toward a bad TPS but a bad IAC is also a possibilty. Guess it's time to open the wallet again...

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