Engine questions (in prep for another road trip)

[NickDawson]

Updated

The throttle issue seems to be user errors - lubed up the accelerator and I think all is well... chalk that one up to being a newbie.

The oil does have me a bit concerned as it happily drank 2 quarts and might even take another. I'll keep a close eye on it.

I got up the nerve to change out the gearbox oil and the local auto parts store only had SAE 80-90 - the guy tried to tell me it'd be just as good as 90/90 - told him I had to consult my experts...so, thoughts?

a 20 minute trip around town produced no coolant leaks. But I have included a pic of the suspicious area below - to be safe, I cranked the hose clamp down.

for those interested, more pics of the carb setup:


coolant leak - note on pic at flickr site

[adkrover]

I'll make a guess and say the oil in the breather is blow by from the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. Is there a hose from the valve cover to the breather?

[mechman]

That's your heater control valve. It's not unusual for them to seep a bit, but don't take that as permission to allow it to leak. Since you've tightened the clamp and the leak seems to have disappeared, you may have solved the problem. I'd keep a wary eye on the bugger though. Replace it if you see it getting wet.

On second thought, having re-read you original post with fresher eyes, your oil consumption has gotten to a fix-it level IMO. It's time to power wash the engine and trans and find the big leak. The little bit of oil in your air cleaner is not unusual, as it looks like the breather is hooked up to it. But going through that many quarts in such a short time is not just typical seepage.

80W/90 oil should be OK as a replacement, as long as you're using gear oil. It's getting tough to find straight 90W in my area, too. I've been using 80W/90 for years with no problems.

Mech

[rbonnett]

Have you thought about going with a synthetic for the 90W? It does cost more, but for me its made a big difference in noise, heat and smoothness of working the gear box. If there's a significant leak, I'd hold off on the switch cuz of the $$$.

[NickDawson]

Have you thought about going with a synthetic for the 90W? It does cost more, but for me its made a big difference in noise, heat and smoothness of working the gear box. If there's a significant leak, I'd hold off on the switch cuz of the $$$.

Not opposed to synthetic if people like it - but I didn't see *anything* in 90W at the local auto parts store...

[NickDawson]

Well, now I'm not so sure its the gearbox thats leaking, the entire underside is covered in oil. When I first got it I spent a lot of time underneath and it was definitely not like this... it seems to have gotten worse in the last week or two...

Maybe I over filled it when I added the 2 qrts of engine oil last weekend... or maybe I've got some serious seal issues.

At the risk of sounding too ignorant to own a car - can someone confirm the proper place to add engine oil?

I don't have a lift (I do have a snazzy new hi-lift jack though). Whats the best way to approach this? Should I order seals and then take it to a local shop and just have them all replaced? I'm worried that is a bigger project that I can tackle under the shade tree - or am I wrong about that?

I'll start with the suggestions in this thread and power wash and see what I can find...as soon as I find a power washer (mine is broken )

[mechman]

Clean off the engine, run it a bit, then see how high up it's getting wet. That's the level of the seal that is leaking. Given that your underside seems to be wettest, it's probably not your valve cover gasket that is leaking. My guess would be the rear main seal has gone, but it could be your oil filter or pan gasket.

If you have some time and hand tools, you can fix just about anything on your Rover. Don't be afraid of it, Rovers were meant to be fixed in the bush. Since you have a civilian frame, you'll have to pull your floors and seat box to get the transmission out (military chassis have a removable trans crossmember). Once you have the trans out, changing the rear main seal isn't a huge deal. It will take you a few days though, and you should replace the clutch assembly while you're in there, not to mention the trans input shaft seal, among others.

Mech

[NickDawson]

think we lost some notes over the weekend...

update:

• powerwashed
• overdrive oil full
• engine oil maintaining (over course of a week and 20+ miles)
• since washing, no new drips on pavement

Adkrover suggested that this was the bell housing drain for post-fording
There does seem to be quite a bit of oil around the housing and coming from the drain...could this be my source?

[TSR53]

think we lost some notes over the weekend...

Yup, sorry server hickup... Mostly all restored, must rely on your memory for weekend posts.

[NickDawson]

More updates - after sitting in a new place for a day, I am closer to the source of the leaks...I can trace the puddle under the truck to one of two likely places.

I'm hoping this is it...the pan seems to be dripping


of course, that could also be the lowest point....

I still need a better power wash, the car wash version didn't cut it.... there also appears to be fresh oil around this cable and its housing. Is this the clutch cable?

Pumping the clutch didn't produce any noticeable difference in the leak

I think I'll go head and order a new pan and gasket and hope thats it. BTW - anyone know those part numbers? Not sure of the descriptions here: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-51-gearbox.aspx

Who knew - the iPhone is the best tool I have right now actually, Its this group, the iPhone just helps me get the visuals