The plot tickens (series III backfire/idle, brakes)

[SafeAirOne]

Interesting!
Had not thought to link the two... but with the charge light on and the tank reading 1/4, it really might be that simple.

I'll report tonight when go for the rescue mission. If that fails, then we'll see how many horsepower I have as I try and push it home

An alternator light that is on immediately after startup and goes out and stays out once you give it a few more RPMs isn't abnormal. I don't believe this characteristic has any relation to a bad fuel gauge indication.

If the charge light stays on all the time, it would certainly cause your rover to stop running eventually, but not from lack of fuel, but rather lack of sufficient electricity in the battery.


Hmm...Just re-read your earlier posts. It sounds as if your alternator doesn't put out enough juice to support all of your electrical demand at low RPMs. Out of curiosity, did this happen only after you hooked up that inverter? You're not driving around with a hotplate and steam iron plugged in are you?

[badvibes]

Bummer dude. Check the basics, fuel, spark, air. I've had electric fuel pumps die suddenly. I now carry a spare, don't know if you're running elec or mechanical. Fuel filters get clogged. Check spark by pulling a plug and turning the engine over. A friend had problems with his Rover running like crap, didn't totally quit running though, just because his K & N filter was sooo dirty. Checking these things may not zero your problem right off but if you can eliminate 2 out of the 3 then it makes finding the real problem easier.

Jeff

[NickDawson]

Drat, not out of gas - added two gallons, reading 1/2 tank and I think thats accurate (was a little less than 1/2 before)

Got positive fuel pressure all the way to the carb, thats as far as I could troubleshoot tonight.

The build in ammeter is pegged to the left below 10v - although its turning over fine. I cranked it a lot, often for 30 seconds - 1 minute. At first it almost felt like it was going to catch, few good chugs but then nothing on the remaining attempts.

To Safe Air One's point - the inverter has been off since it was installed. Still don't trust it (wonder why). The timing feels too coincidental.

The filter is clean - so I've got air

There is fuel

Guessing the next step is to verify spark... two man job and will have to wait until later in the week. Headed out of town tomorrow.

[Nium]

Check the fuel shutoff relay. Relays are simply magnetic switches if it went bad without explanation before wouldn't hurt to check that first to make sure it didn't head south again IMHO.

Of course you know me I always think it's in the dizzy first .

Sorry the rigs testing you again I was hoping it was out of gas too.

[NickDawson]

Whoo-hoo! found a local shop who says they are comfortable with old rovers. In fact, they are literally a straight shot, less than 1 mile from where the rover is stalled. Ironic - in a good way!

The problem is that I feel like this time I could probably tinker for a weekend or two and figure it out. On the other hand, I have no time in my life for the next few weekends and this shop has time tomorrow.

I'm leaning towards taking it in and asking them to call me when they have it diagnosed. Then I can offer to pay their hourly rate if they will teach me while they fix it. Two birds, one stone?

[NickDawson]

This time Nium was right on the money - it *was* the points!
$200 later I have a running truck with brakes that stop a lot better. I have not gotten the full post mortem but they said something about the wiring for the points being defective - they were not burned up. The only thing I can imagine was the the low tension lead. It came with a honking plug on the end that would not fit through the hole in the dizzy. I cut it and re-crimped a new plug. Wondering if that crimp failed. Although I did check that the low tension lead was attached before towing it...

I'm kicking myself because I really think I could have tackled both over the weekend.... but $200 isn't the end of the world and I'm glad to have someone else bloody their knuckles with the rusty brake adjusters.

They also quoted me $900 for a new exhaust manifold from the UK. I told them about a little company I know in Vermont, just for future reference. (I'm still passing on the exhaust leak, I'll order the $250 manifold from RN this winter).

[kevkon]

Good news Nick!
I'd be inersted to hear what exactly was wrong in the "wiring". I just put in a new set of points and just happened to find that the factory crimp was no good. Took them out and soldered the connections.

[Jim-ME]

Glad to hear that the Rover is back on the road. Look at http://www.lrseries.com/shop/categor...er-Series.html to see if you can get an exhaust manifold for less than you have been quoted. My 2.5 diesel manifold was $150.00 with expedited shipping.
Jim

[Nium]

Glad to see you are up and running again.

A little FYI if you had bought low tension lead RN# RNC604 Land Rover Part # 54413549 and it looked like the picture attached below. That's the wrong low tension lead for your distributor. That lead is for the Lucas 25D4 you've got a Lucas 45D4 where the low tension lead is incorporated to the wire for the condensor. Review Rover's North description of points part # RNF232 though I think you have the blue version of points fit to your dizzy part # RNE637. Hence why when you ordered a low tension lead it wouldn't fit and you had to cut the plastic block off that mates to the distributor body of the Lucas 25D4.

[amcordo]

11 pages in...

So Nick. Tell us how you feel about Land Rover.