The plot tickens (series III backfire/idle, brakes)

[bmohan55]

Not that I am a wealth of experience but your trials and tribulations seems to be mirroring my problems with my recently aquired truck (and our mechanical knowledge seem to match up, i.e. near non-existant) so here it goes.

Get a new cap, rotor, points, condenser, wires & plugs, that way you can eliminate those relatively cheap parts as the problem. Keep the old ones incase they were good so you will have spares. I'd do the distributor parts first , if no change in performance then change the plugs, again if no change then the wires.

The bushing your refer to is the vacuum advance, it shouldn't have anything to do with your problems as it only comes into play at higher engine speeds.

I also stripped out my brake bleed screw so I went ahead and installed new wheel cylinders, again not too expensive and now I don't have to worry about them. Actually one thing lead to another and I re-did the entire brake system, remember whoa is more important than go!

My biggest advice to you is to find someone with basic mechanical knowledge (these trucks are VERY basic) and make him/her your best buddy. I was adopted my the mechanics here at the plant and have learned sooo much by their hands-on training/advice that is impossible to convey via this board. Buy them lunch, dinner or free health care, what ever deal you can strike but it very difficult and discouraging to try to trouble shoot alone at our level. I couldn't have done what I've done without hands-on help.

I'd be willing to help you later on but right know I'm finishing my truck (new distrbutor and u-joints go on tonight) and if I start spending time under another truck right away I believe SWMBO may not be very happy. Give me a week or two!

[pisten-bully]

what am I missing?

You know Land Rovers... no two are alike. So if the socket doesn't fit, take it back and get another!

[kevkon]

I think it would be wise to invest in the proper Whitworth and other tools if you are going to do your own wrenching. For the bleeders use a dedicated bleeder wrench or a flair wrench. Soak it liberally with WD40 and let it sit overnight, then give it a sharp tap. If that doesn't work then resort to the heat method. Just make sure you have a new set of bleeder valves on hand.
As for the vacuum advance, any vacuum leak in the system can cause problems. Your engine is drawing in air which effectively leans out the fuel mixture. In addition the job of the vacuum advance is to advance the timing under no load conditions ( that's when the vacuum is at it's greatest) as when you are running with the throttle closed. So a vacuum leak will not only allow the mixture to lean out it will also prevent the distributor from advancing the spark to the degree needed under partial throttle conditions.

[NickDawson]

My biggest advice to you is to find someone with basic mechanical knowledge (these trucks are VERY basic) and make him/her your best buddy.

Agree with this 100% - just trying to find the right buddy. My neighbor is pretty knowledgeable, but is no expert on Rovers. Together we are better than either one of us on our own. Not the same as having a master mechanic, but its a start.

You know Land Rovers... no two are alike. So if the socket doesn't fit, take it back and get another!

Tell me about it!

Kevkon - I'll get that vacuum line to the advance sorted as well.

Ordered a new cylinder (proline), plugs, points, condenser and cap from our hosts along with a new wheel cylinder in case I cant get the bleeder loose.

I also found the 1-11/16th socket on Amazon ($5 and with their prime service, free shipping) along with a set of feeler gauges

If it ever starts again, it will be a miracle, but in the mean time at least it will have a bunch of shiny new parts

Thanks again folks!

[NickDawson]

One more question -
The Green bible's limited diagrams show the wheel cylinders on the top of the wheel. On mine, that is true for the rears. But on the front wheels the bleeder is on the bottom. Does that sound correct?

[I Leak Oil]

Sounds like someone put the lefts on the right and rights on the left....Or upside down. I REALLY would like to see a picture of this!

[NickDawson]

Full set here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nickdaw...7622029085631/

I'm looking at the 90/110 book I have - these look strangely like defender fronts...
I'd rather someone tell me that I'm just wrong about the location of the bleeder, that its in fact up top and I'm just missing it. Guessing that if they are 90/110 wheels (axle too?) that wheel cylinder that I ordered won't work, is that the case?

Note to anyone thinking about importing a truck: DONT or at least make sure you know more than I did at the time

[NepentheSea]

you have two brake cylinders on the front. one on the top and one on the bottom. the bleeder screw is on the bottom, same as mine. thats how its supposed to be.

[greenmeanie]

Someone has upgraded your truck to a set of 11" drums from a 109. They do increase stopping power but require a certain skill to bleed properly. You can either modify the line routing to move the bleed screw to the top or remove the backing palte, brakes and all and hold it in an orientation that puts the bleed nipple at the high point of the system.

[NickDawson]

the closer I get...
Just went to pull the wheel and realized I don't own a jack that is tall enough - maybe time to buy a floor jack

Going back to the plan of tring to find a local shop. Right now I have a truck that won't start, won't stop and I'm over my head. Thanks for the advice thus far guys!