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Thread: Rovers and Lube

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    57

    thumb-up Rovers and Lube

    Well here is a subject that will make your Rover happy .

    L-U-B-R-I-C-A-T-I-O-N

    Yes we as lazy characters seem to forget that our Rover lives on lube. It is a mechanical device and you need to feed it. Not an oil change, diff, tranny etc, but all the other things that need it.

    Have you ever put your Rover on a rack(or jack stands) and hit EVERY grease point? If not, get your butt in gear or you will be replacing a ujoint soon, maybe while on the trail head !! I promise you if you will do this quarterly, and every time you ford water, you may never have to replace one.

    Have you drained and added the new Rover swivel ball grease to front swivels? Take a section of coat hanger, about 1' long, bend a handle into it, remove the swivel fill plug(square fitting on top of axle swivel-11mm I think) and use it as a gauge. you should get about 1-1.5 inches of goo on your dipstick(let me confirm that unless someone knows for sure). If no Diff oil or Dark Grey/Green stuff on stick, or some rusty sludge, time to service the swivel ball(I wont get into that, If you arent familiar already, let someone service it that knows how and ask If you can watch). This is a source of massive failure(and mega bucks repair) on Rovers.

    When was last time you serviced your hub bearings? Never? I can promise you, you have at least one ready to explode from lack of lube. This is a once a year deal for me, maybe more for you, maybe less for you, (but I would do at a minimum every second major service(60K miles). I typically see very dry hubs at this mileage. Get the factory manual out or do the same as above, have competent Rover tech do it and watch.

    Do you lube your door hinges, locks, door checks, hood latch, hinges, rear door hinges and latch regularly? You should do this 4 times a year. Constant exposure to you washing your car washes away lube and leads to saggy, rusty hinges and locks that crap out when you least expect it. I use any of several spray lubes, WD-40, lithium, etc, just get something on all of 'em. Use the little red extension provided with the can to stick INSIDE the lock cylinders. This will cure 90% of problems with Rover Doors and locks.

    Check your throttle cable, kick down cable etc, dont go crazy, just put a little lube on there.

    If you find your Diff lock wont work, you own a car previously driven by the arch enemy of all things Rover, the Soccer Mommy. If you where to ask all first time owners of Rovers, how their 4WD system works, 80% would give you a "Deer in headlights look". More than likely, you are the first person to ever engage Diff lock on your transfer case, so if it is stuck, look at the forums, this is one of the most covered repairs on the forum. Use a high quality lube on the shaft, and engage and disengage once a month and your problem will never return.

    Finally, add a can of WD40 to your tool box, sometimes it can be a lifesaver!!

    Happy trails,
    Last edited by JSalyer; 02-08-2007 at 07:39 AM.

  2. #2

    Default GREAT LUBE ADVICE AND MY 88 RANGE ROVER RESTORATION

    vERY INFORMATIVE AND USEFUL, I AM CURRENTLY IN THE PROCESS OF RESTORING A 88 RANGE ROVER, FOR PARTS I BOUGHT ANOTHER 88 RANGE ROVER TO BAD THE TITLE WAS JUNK BECAUSE THE INTERIOR EXTERIOR SEEM ALMOST BETTER, HOWEVER IT CAME FROM NEW JERSEY AND RUST SPOTS ARE APPARENT ON HOOD AND REAR TAIL GATE, OH AND THEY TOOK THE DRIVE GEARS OUT OF THE FRONT END TO REPAIR ANOTHER LANDROVER PRIOR TO MY PURHASE. THE TO BE RESTORED RR HAS A ROVERS NORTH HIDDEN WARN WINCH, FRONT BUMPER. I HAVE PURCHASED A FACTORY SHOP MANUAL AND A HAYNES MANUAL FOR GUIDANCE, I KNOW THAT I SURE BIT OFF A GOOD AMOUNT OF WORK, BUT SHOULD BE ABLE TO SAVE SOME $ WITH MY PARTS CAR,ANY ADVICE ?
    IS IT WORTH TRYING TO TAKE THE HEADLINER OUT OF THE PARTS CAR TO PUT INTO MY RESTORABLE ROVER ? ANY ADVICE YOU GUYS WITH MORE TIME AND EXPERTISE WOULD SURE BE APPRECIATED DIRECT TO UPNOVR3 OR tomfillhart2002@msn.com, I live in Kerrville, Texas. Thanx for any future input or advice !

  3. #3

    Default front engine death wobble

    Do you know what causes the horrible front end shake at about 70 going over a bump and turning....very scary...can't steer the car no control.....Would it be the swivel plugs are empty....?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    57

    Default Death Wobble

    Mary Mary,
    Check all of your ball joints, steering joints, steering box NOW!!!!!!!!!!

    If you dont know how too, go to the dealer or an Indie LR shop.

    A guy and his wife where killed a few years ago on the way to a LR event due to a tie rod end failure!!

    You should easily spot the bad rod end while lying under the front end and have someone move the wheel back and forth.

    Also check for loose steering box(yes I saw one once ready to fall off).

    This is a serious issue, deal with it now!!!!!

    Jak of Bavaria

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Thousand Oaks, CA
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marymary
    Do you know what causes the horrible front end shake at about 70 going over a bump and turning....very scary...can't steer the car no control.....Would it be the swivel plugs are empty....?
    MaryMary

    Swivel bearing preload needs resetting. Check the green bible for the proceedure. Its not too difficult but does take effort and time along with some shims (from our host).


    Paul
    1971 109 Safari Wagon (1 ton chassis)
    1995 LWB Range Rover Classic
    1997 Defender 90 (repaired at last)
    2001 P38A Range Rover

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