2.5 n/a diesel

[GeoffWillis]

Glad to hear how much of a bugger yours was, I thought I was just whining! Pretty clever about nosing the truck against a brick wall, I wouldn't have thought of that. Last night I made a cardboard template of a tool to lock down the Crankshaft pulley by bolting this tool to the pulley, and bracing the tool against the frame. I took that template to a machine shop today and they are going to give me quote on making the tool, I've never done that before, pretty cool! Kind of a neat shop, they had pictures on the wall of Speed Week at Bonneville salt flats last month and have the title "Worlds Fastest Corvette, in its class) of 230 mph!!. You meet the nicest people owning a landrover!!
I'll post a picture of the tool when I get it. Thanks for the input. I have to remember that the real purpose is getting the injection pump off, I'm just having trouble getting to it!!!!.
Geoff

[larry2a]

Hey folks, a few questions about my engine. I've started tearing down my 2.5 n/a diesel to have the injection pump rebuilt and have some problems. I've used the following link to guide my efforts, but I'm stuck on a few details.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=18997
THANKYOU Les Henson!!!
The link below shows the current state of my tear down; Radiator, fan, and water pump removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31277813@N06/3969725817/
Now the questions:
1) I'm about to break the crankshaft pulley nut loose and want to make sure I've got things aligned correctly. Is it just a simple matter of removing the timing cover and aligning marks on the crankshaft gear and injection pump gears? The manual talks about aligning marks on the flywheel but I see no access point to the flywheel to do such an alignment.
2) Provided I can get everything "Lined up" and remove the injection pump, get it rebuilt ..., what timing issues do I have to worry about throughout the process?
Sorry to take up so much room,
Geoff

#1 I just did a timing belt replacement not too long ago...and I just lined up the marks inside the timing belt casing as stated in the manual. I did not reference to the flywheel marks. Except for a puller to pull the crankshaft pulley out, and a torque wrench, everything else was just basic metric tools. Just make sure you slowly turn the crankshaft pulley nut by wrench a few rotations after you think everything is set, just to make sure your valves are not hitting the pistons.

#2 On other brand diesels, I just installed the pump and lined up the marks. On the LR engine, I am not sure...but for some reason you are off, just rotate the pump pulley one rev and you should be spot on.

[GeoffWillis]

Thanks for the info. I've finally gotten the timing cover off, it took almost a month! I did have a special tool made to remove the crankshaft pully, but now I can get to belt/injection pump etc. I can see the arrows mentioned in the manual to line everything up so I hope to get the pump removed and belt replaced this weekend. I really hope to get this done and get the truck back on the road, the weather is just perfect and I miss the smell of diesel. I also bought a new lift pump so when all is done it should run great.
Geoff

[Les Parker]

Any news, Geoff?
Hope the cold turkey on lack of Deisel fumes has not sent you over the edge.....

[SafeAirOne]

Ha...That crank pulley bolt can be a pain... I replaced my timing belt last year and removed the bolt using the "crank the engine with a breaker bar on the bolt" method which worked fine. When it came time to put it back on, I beat the heck out of the breaker bar with a ball peen hammer to tighten the bolt.

6 months later, as I'm cruising down the highway, I hear a loud clunk under the rover, but no unusual indications otherwise. Nothing noted on a casual inspection at my destination.

On my way home that night, the charge light comes on a half mile from my house. I pull over to find the fan belt is missing, and the crank pulley has slid halfway off the crank. Now I know what that clunk was.

I eventually squirted blue loc-tite all over the replacement bolt and ball peen hammered it on again.

Just last night, I removed the same bolt to tear down the engine for a complete engine rebuild and I had to use an electric impact driver to get it off.

LESSON LEARNED: Use generous amounts of loc-tite when installing this bolt, not just your usual lilttle spot of it.

[SafeAirOne]

Also, I asked the same thing about the 2.5 timing pins on the series forum. See the third post in this thread for a link to a french site that detils how to make the pins (includes photos).

EDIT: Disregard, I see you bought the expensive ones or already made your own in another post.

[GeoffWillis]

Also, I asked the same thing about the 2.5 timing pins on the series forum. See the third post in this thread for a link to a french site that detils how to make the pins (includes photos).

EDIT: Disregard, I see you bought the expensive ones or already made your own in another post.

Yes they were expensive and now having done the job once I can see how I could have saved some $$$ by drilling out a plug and using an 1/8" drill bit to locate the timing mark, but live and learn! The good news is that as of tonight the injection pump is off!!!! Only took six weeks!! Had a bit of a scare when using a gear puller to get the gear off the injection pump. It was VERY tight and was afraid the puller would break first, but it made an expensive sounding noise and let loose with no damage. The pump is in my hands. I used a few water balloons to seal up the injection lines while the pump is out, kinda looks like tiny condoms! Anyway, I'll be taking the pump to the local diesel shop and see if they can rebuild it. Hopefully the re-assembly will be easier.
More to follow.
Geoff

Injection pump missing...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31277813@N06/4207769150/

Injection pump in hand!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31277813@N06/4207009169/

[SafeAirOne]

Funny--I've got my 2.5 apart for a rebuild in my garage right now. I removed the entire timing case with the injector pump still mounted to the timing case, thinking I wouldn't need to fiddle around with it when it came time to reinstall it.

However, upon rethinking the whole thing, I'll probably end up pulling the pump and bringing it to my local diesel shop for a checkout. No point in rebuilding the engine and not having the pump and injectors at least tested.

I'll have to keep in mind the scary sound of the pulley breaking free of the shaft when I get around to removing mine.

Geoff, what caused you to have your pump rebuilt in the first place (sorry, I don't often check the defender forum)?

When you get it done, could you please post how much it cost you and what was done to it? I'd appreciate it! That way, I know how many pennies I'll have to start saving...

PS: Wow-- I just had a look at your pix on Flickr. Nice Rover! I wish ANYTHING on my rover looked as clean as the inside of your timing case. What was the tool you fabricated used for?

[GeoffWillis]

I'm having the pump rebuilt as my son filled the rover with gas one day and about a month later (After draining the gas and filling with diesel) the pump just started leaking fuel all over and the engine wouldn't run smoothly (Fuel leaking out, air leaking in...). I've been told the rebuild will cost anywhere from $500 to $900 (That's a lot of pennies...) and I can buy a rebuild unit for about $1100, so it ain't cheap! I'll keep you posted.
The tool I had fabricated was to hold the crankshaft pulley while loosening the crankshaft bolt. Basically the wrench bolts to the pulley (4 bolts) and the large hole in the middle allows a 41 mm socket to fit inside, while the handle rests on the frame rail, and break the darn thing loose. It worked quite well, and I imagine it will really be useful when trying to torque the thing back on to 200 ft/lbs. I'd be happy to loan it out if others need it, it makes short work of the crankshaft bolt.
I'm glad to see other 2.5 NAD fans out there. Seems everybody wants a 200/300 tdi (Hey so would I) but I really enjoy the simplicity of this engine. Whats been your experience with the engine? I've only had the vehicle a year, and I was laid up for most of that time with 4 shoulder surgeries so I haven't had much of a chance to drive it. While not quick, I really think it will be perfect for bashing around the boonies, and the RoverDrive makes it livable on the paved roads, got it up to 110 kph once with a tail wind!
Geoff

[SafeAirOne]

Whats been your experience with the engine?

Well, I got my right-hand-drive 109 6 years ago--It had a dead 6cylinder engine in it. As I was moving to the desert, I figured I'd put a diesel in it for the increased range, reliablility and simplicity, so I got a used ex-MoD 2.5 from Rovers North. I did a little chasis repair and relocted the engine mounts and installed the 2.5, then a week later, drove it 3000 miles from one corner of the country to the other.

Though definitely slow in a 109 (or 110 as you know) this engine has been ultra-reliable. The only engine-related mechanical failure I've experienced in 60,000+ miles is a cracked fuel line from the injector pump to the #1 injector. Even then, I could easily have limped home if I didn't mind squirting diesel all over interstate 8 in extreme southern California.

My 2.5-powered 109 has, for the most part, been my daily driver since I installed the engine. I have since moved back to the northeast, and have found it increasingly hard to start my 2.5 during the cold months, plus it has developed a tapping noise, so I pulled the engine out last week for a rebuild. I have no idea how many miles are on this engine, but it looks like it'll be a simple rebuild--New bearings (they're worn, causing the tap, I believe) and a valve job (intakes not fully seating, causing the hard starts).

I'm the only one that drives the rover, but if I ever accidentally put gasoline in it, (and realize it in time) I'll have to remember not to start it up, but rather have it towed home and drained.